Okay, here is the bathroom plan!
Nancy in Mich
10 years ago
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Shades_of_idaho
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
New here and would appreciate advice on a bathroom renovation! (m
Comments (0)Hi, my questions are: 1. We're installing a wall-mount sink over a wall-hung vanity. Can we install the sink first? Vanity will get here 3 wks after sink and I'm wondering if it's okay to install them separately? How hard is it going to be? 2. How high should the bottom of the vanity be from the floor? The sink will be 36" from the floor and I'm wondering if floor-to-vanity (is that called toekick) can be 10"? 3. planning to install a glass shower door directly onto the bathtub (ie no surround) - what are the pros or cons of doing that? 4. Need a small slab of granite for kitchen windowsill but GC refuses to do a template for me (told him I would pay for it) unless I order it through him. Is that what usually happens? He will charge $400 for the piece (including template) but I had found a place that priced it at $200 (but they need a template) Thanks very much for any advice/tips you can share! Have gathered a lot of information here (and on the kitchen forum) since I came across this site a week ago! Best, A...See MoreOkay Critics, here's ANOTHER plan to hack apart!
Comments (33)Overall I like it a lot! Other than the door conflict issues, my only concern is that you might find it difficult to get large pieces of furniture down the rather twisty hallway to the bedrooms. You also need a bit more space at the bottom of the staircase. I understand that the bumpout and closet are there to help define the Great Room space but I think you might do better to make the bumpout only half as deep and get rid of the little closet entirely. If you did that, you could hang a large mirror hung on the wall where the closet door is now that would reflect the stairs and you could put a small bookcase or a narrow table with a vase of flowers below the mirror to create a lovely "focal point" at the bottom of the stairs. Then, on the hallwayside instead of a tight corner, you would have a nice wide space to move furniture around. And, when you're not moving furniture down the hall, you'd have a niche where you could put a family bulletin board or the house telephone, or a wall of pegs for family jackets and bookbags. Just an idea. As for door conflicts and other door issues, here's what I would do to address them. (This thread had gotten pretty long so I admit I didn't read thru all of the comments so others may already have made some of these suggestions) 1) Masterbathroom/closet conflict. Lose that conflicting closet door entirely and instead put an opening between the two closets so one door serves them both. You wouldn't lose any useful space and the change would probably actually make the smaller closet MORE useful because you wouldn't have to walk around the closet door to get to clothing hanging on the east wall. 2) Your masterbath toilet room really isn't large enough for the door to open inward. I'd either open that door outward or consider using a pocket door there. Or you could use a bifold door there. It could probably open either inward or outward. (BTW, this isn't a door issue but while I'm talking about the masterbath, I'd also suggest moving the sink that is closest to the bathroom door about 4 inches closer to the other sink and then cutting about 3 inches off the corner of the bathroom vanity (so the vanity a 45 degree angle)...especially if you're planning on granite countertops! Don't know about you but I am a born klutz, especially in the early mornings when I'm only half awake - and I would bruise my hip on that 90 degree corner on a DAILY basis. You will never miss the lost couple of inches of space between the two sinks - but if you or your spouse are at all klutzy, your hips will thank you for easing off that corner. 3)Southwest bedroom/closet door. Incorporate about 18 to 20 inches of the hallway (right up to the bathroom door opening) INTO the southwest bedroom to create an entry alcove for the bedroom door. I think you can steal just enough hallway space for the alcove so that when the bedroom door is open it will clear the opened bifold closet door. 4) Bathroom/bathcloset. Instead of a closet, consider using open shelving or cabinetry such as one would put in a kitchen. You might actually get more useable storage in the space if you didn't have 4" taken up with the front wall of the closet. And, if someone left a cabinet door open, it would just bump closed when you opened the bathroom door instead of blocking the door the way a bifold closet door might. 5) Pantry/laundryroom doors. Shift the pantry closet to the southwest corner of the area (where the door to the garage is now) and bump about four feet of just that westermost section of garage wall out into the garage about one foot. You'll actually have more useable garage space because the wall won't come out as far into the garage as the door does now. Then, move the door to the garage the so that it sits between the pantry and closet in an alcove that is BUMPED INWARD so that it is even with the edge of the panty. That way the garage door will no longer jut out into the garage. Okay, I'm struggling to describe what I mean and realize that my description isn't at all clear.... Guess I'd better just take the time to sketch it out for you. Without seeing the second floor plan, it is impossible to tell whether your great room has a vaulted ceiling (and thus the possibility of having some clerestory windows over the roof of the covered porch. If you don't have clerestory windows, I think you may find your great room a bit dark - surrounded as it is by the deep covered porch. You might want to look into putting some sky lights or a couple of those "light tubes" (solatubes?) into the covered porch roof. I personally don't like skylights because where I live (central Texas) they admit WAY too much heat along with the light. I understand that light tubes don't admit so much heat and if you could position about three of them so that they throw light right over your patio doors, that would definitely help brighten your great room. Hope some of this is helpful and best wishes with your building project!...See MoreOkay, how about glass tile on ONE bathroom wall
Comments (3)I am not a designer by any means, but what helped me narrow in on what to use (and not use) was to decide on what "theme" or general look I had in mind, then look at photos/pics of bathrooms in that "theme", then from there started to zero in on the possibilities. Otherwise I would still be trying to decide. I came up with my own look, but it really helped to have a goal. I would use pattern or color or tile type, then created my own mix. In terms of one wall or partial walls, the rule is there are no rules. You can create anything you desire. My biggest challenge was finding photos to inspire me! In my active master bath reno, 2 walls will be to the ceiling, and 2 will be partial, and that was specifically what I wanted to create. I was inspired by the idea of beautiful rooms with an exposed brick wall- kind of like "one tiled wall"....See MorePlan too ambitious?? Please help with my bathroom vanity ideas!
Comments (49)I have an update and would love to get some feedback before I order the final accessories. (Demo begins one week from today!) I got a quote for replacing the vanity with white cabinetry complete with a sitting area, plus hardwiring of sconces. The costs all added up to too much for me, so I'm sticking with my vanity and overhead lighting location. I feel great about my choices for tile, bath tub, paint, and fixtures. My worry is that all the little accessory details won't quite work together, diminishing the beauty of the bathroom as a whole. I need to buy the accessories soon; here's what I have in mind. With overhead lighting instead of sconces, I prefer one large mirror. The mirror is by Pottery Barn, a wooden frame with gold gilt, 72" x 36". Perfect size for the space, very very very hard to find. This is technically a floor-length mirror, so I hope it can be mounted horizontally! PB customer service was useless when asked. The lights are also PB, polished nickel. For practical reasons, I ruled out any overhead lights that take type B bulbs (too dim) and have fabric shades (too hard to clean). As a big plus, these are on sale for $170 each. Do they go with the mirror and the rest of the room? Chandelier is PB, 18" diameter, antique brass, UL-listed. This will be over the tub on a dimmer. It was hard to find a chandy that's not too big, ornate, and/or expensive. Knobs and pulls are glass and polished nickel from Restoration Hardware. Towel ring, TP roll, and hook are Ballard Design in polished nickel. Fabric for the roman shade is gray on cream linen. Shower bench is Signature Hardware in teak. I hope this will help tie in the wood of the vanity with the other side of the room. Towel warmer is polished stainless steel (no nickel option) from Signature Hardware. If anything doesn't quite mesh or looks wrong, I would love to hear, as well as any suggestions for alternatives!...See MoreTxMarti
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
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10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoTxMarti
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoShades_of_idaho
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10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
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10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoenduring
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
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10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
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10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
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9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoenduring
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9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoTxMarti
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9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNancy in Mich
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