Sink leaking into cabinet - what is the right way to fix?
alwayscold
6 years ago
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randy427
6 years agoalwayscold
6 years agoRelated Discussions
How to get sink against right wall with baseboards in the way?
Comments (9)Sorry for taking a while to update on this, our bathroom/kitchen renovation was being finished up - it is done! - and it was so crazy hectic! Now my work begins, where I do all the little things I asked to be done that were not, such as resealing the marble shower tiles, caulking the whole shower area (they only grouted!), fixing drywall, etc. But I am so relieved, so happy, to have my home back, that nothing could bother me! As to the original issue, well, it turns out that all the pondering was for naught. It turns out our bathroom walls are not square so with the sink/vanity up against the back wall, there is a gap on the right side that widens as you move towards the front. Here, the gap is large enough for the baseboard to be passed behind (to the right of) the front leg. It is narrower towards the back, where the baseboard was cut and butted up against the back leg. Not pretty, but no one will see it (except me, when I'm cleaning). Unfortunately, there is still the gap between the sink and right wall and we're not sure what to do about it at this point. Anyway, this is on the backburner for now, I am just going to enjoy how much nicer everything is and be happy! Thanks again to everyone for all of your ideas!...See MoreNeed to pull my H&G DV fireplace to fix air leaks... advice?
Comments (0)I have a heat and glow fireplace, standard builder equipment. Unfortunately the bump-out has the standard "not sealed right" problem of drafts and smells, so I need to pull the fireplace. Plan is to pull, measure the insides and verify insulation type and location, as well as the install of the firestop and piping. I don't believe they drywalled in the cavity, so if the measurements work, put up a vapor barrier and drywall. Then re-install the same unit. The only real issue I have, for now, is taking the fireplace out. It looks like I need to unscrew it from the framing inside of the bottom and top cavities of the fireplace, disconnect gas and electric, and the wall switch, which is all pretty simple simple. Then it looks like I might need to either just cut the high temp caulk between the marble and the fireplace or I need to remove the marble side pieces, but I'm not sure. What do you think? Do I need to remove the marble or both the marble and mantle? Or can I just slide the unit out after unbolting from the inside? If I need to remove the marble, I am not quite sure the best way to do it. It has to have some adhesive behind it and I don't want to break anything since I want ti to all go back right how it is....See MoreSmell after fixing leak under sink
Comments (20)The link is not helpful, Trebruchet. In fact, it is misleading. Bleach does kill mold. At least is kills fungus that might be called mold. "Mold" is not a terribly precise word, but you can look up data for the effectiveness of sodium hypochlorite on fungi as well as bacteria and viruses. It is true that bleach is not an effective mold-killer on porous surfaces. It is fine on bathroom tile and roofs. The reason the writer of that stupid article sees re-growth of mold on roofs and on bathroom tile is because mold is ubiquitous in our environment. Nothing stays disinfected forever. To kill microbial growth in wood and other porous building materials, you have to penetrate the material fully with active chemical. That might be more difficult than replacing the affected materials. The question is really, is bleaching or borate-treating minimally-affected material good enough? It may be if it is kept dry in the future. There will mold in contact with the wood in the future no matter what you do....See MoreIs this a good fix for a leak between the roof and side of a house?
Comments (43)As you said in your ORIGINAL post a flashing is missing. They never put the correct flashing in. As JDS posted above in his last picture, that is what you need for a flashing. Instead they put in that monstrosity that does not help. ALSO, there is a valley that terminates near the problem point. And the roof slopes towards the house. The entire area needs the shingles pulled and ice and water shield applied BEFORE the flashing. That ice and water shield should terminate at least a foot up the wall, then seal the top edge with the flashing tape. NOT felt paper, ice and water shield. Everything they have attempted needs to be pulled, a lot more shingles pulled at least 3 feet up the valley, ice and water shield applied to the whole area and affected wall, flashing applied and taped, then finally reshingle and siding done. If he cannot do this right he needs to hire a roofer that knows what they are doing!!!! Obviously the roof design is bad for drainage in that corner but it is manageable with the correct materials and knowledge....See MoreTaylor's Cabinets & Interiors
6 years agoalwayscold
6 years agoalwayscold
6 years agoUser
6 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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