Thanks for the advice, I am going to take it to a friend who owns a electric motor repair shop and fixes these all the time, maybe he has a similar grinder "for parts" available. I was thinking of getting a HF 9" grinder for $49 since I only use it to sharpen my blades. I have a 4 1/2" grinder and I can tell you there is a HUGE difference between the two grinders when it comes to sharpening blades. I have a mower deck that takes 3 blades and I also sharpen my sister's mower that takes 3 also. Therefore I sharpen a lot of blades. One day I was at John Deere and saw how sharp their shargened blades look so I asked how they got them so nice and sharp. They told me they used 9" grinder and once I started using a 9" grinder it made all the difference in the world. IMHO.....

Mownie,its a 18.5 HP. I used a .010 index card and set the coil gap and made sure I was on magnet. Plugs were .040 and .035,so changed them to around .027 and it started up ok and ran ok for not being started in over a year. While cold,started everytime,but when hot,had to use a car battery to start it. the manual states to only use starter for 5 seconds,wait one minute and then try again.(that helps,asÃÂ even the car battery doesnt always turn it fast untill you give it a minute to cool) Have noticed starter gets hot real quick,so probably need a new starter,but since its a back up,put up with starting it when hot. Now that I think back,it wouldnt start when it was hot,so I connected a wire to the plug to see if I was getting fire and it started,now me not being very smart,it took about 5 or 6 times this happening before I realized it started by grounding the plug. (then it got so it wouldnt start cold or anytime with out grounding the plug. So I guess gaps on coil and plugs and a hot starter all contributed to the trouble. So thank you and bluemower,as both your inputs helped me near get it fixed,as I aint spending $50 for a starter.

Red and Black conductors are for the two legs of 120VAC. White is the neutral and bare is ground. Your service must be at least 8/3 w/ground from a 40A two-pole breaker. That is the current code. But, you may have wiring according to old-school which paired appliance Black to Black feed, appliance Red to the White feed and appliance White to the ground of the home run. You would do best to cofirm your building wiring first. Also, do you have a 3 prong NEMA 10-50R plug?

It will need a surface mount box and in some locations they might argue it needs conduit or armoured cable if it's 'prone to damage' but ordinarily a surface mount box with a suitable clamp for transitioning to surface nm type to a surface mount box. You will need a special wire because they will need to be interconnected...you may also want to consider one or more detectors in other levels of the house if that's appropriate. As for the first detector, yes to the box - I am in canada but it's pretty much a universal requirement here in north america. Any join in the wires is ok provided it's in an accessible junction box. In the attic would probably be fine, you could always run the wire up a joist or queen post to keep it out of the insulation and visible. Keep in mind rules about where wires can run, usually not across joists unless you can't walk there, usually a max headroom of 3' or less. I'm curious why you'd want one up there but think it's not a bad idea, especially if you store anything up there or have celluose (paper) blown in insulation, over time, the fire retardant added can lose its effectiveness. Also if you are in a bushfire-prone area, again, a good idea. Certainly no harm. Keep in mind smoke detectors have a finite working life and they will have a 'replace by' date on them...and you'll need to replace all of them. You may also want to consider a combo smoke/carbon monoxide detector for the one in the house, provided it can be linked to the one in the attic, the linking is mandatory (you probably wouldn't hear the one in the attic all that well.) Be mindful of placement, by your local rules, and also rules of thumb. Mounting underneath the ridge might seem the best place but usually that's a dead air spot and the last to get the smoke, further down one of the rafters might be better- if you have a ridge vent, it will naturally draw the smoke so it might be a good place. Keep in mind avoiding exposure to the weather, if it's near a vent, also, check what the operating temperatures of the unit are, you might need one made for low temperature use if you get low temps in winter, since your attic is probably pretty close to the outside temperature. There are usually garage models available but they usually are heat detectors only, because of the risk of false triggering by vehicle exhaust. A heat detector might actually be a good option for up there for above reasons, some units are combo heat and smoke. HTH