Replaced an old exterior junction box then three circuits lost power
crcb_itunes
6 years ago
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DavidR
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Might replace 5 yr old Miele dishwasher :( -need advice
Comments (117)I found this thread not only interesting, but it was also the kick in the pants that got me to do something about the repeatedly failing water intake valve/solenoid on my Miele Optima (G2420-SCI). The unit was installed new in 2008-2009. We moved into the house in early 2013, and by August that year we experienced our first failure. I do not know if the valve failed in the interval between 2009-2013. I called the local factory authorized installer, and they came out promptly. As I learned after the 2nd failure, they didn’t replace the entire hose/wire/valve, but simply cracked the case and wired-in a new valve. They charged me price of entire unit. Eighteen months later, same problem. I found some info on retrofitting the Miele valve with a GE valve, but I guess I was too timid to try it then. So, I called Miele and explained the problem. They comp’d me 33% on the new part, and this time they changed out the entire assembly. It worked fine until July ’16 when it developed same problem. This time they comp’d me the entire part and did another replacement. Every time they checked the inlet water temp it was below 130 degrees. The new part installed in August ’16 has barely lasted 8 months! We tried to use the machine over Easter weekend, and it came up with the same humming sounds of no water coming in and then popping off the “F12” fault code. After embarrassingly spending/wasting $1000 on 3 valve replacements, I finally decided to look back into the GE valve, and that’s how I got here. I was a GardenWeb member for years before Houzz, but lost touch, until I found this thread. Good x2. I followed the instructions on the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw I opted to use the GE WD15X10003 valve as per the video, and not the WD15X93, mentioned earlier in this thread. As far as I could tell online, the two units are functionally comparable. The bracket and molded switch housing of the X93 are somewhat different, necessitated by the fact that the X93 is designed to be tucked into a cramped under-washer position in a GE system. It is also about $10 cheaper than the X10003, but the X10003 was available by Prime on Amazon, so I could fix it right away. I would guess that any of a number of these valves would be fine, since they would sit on the floor of the under-sink cabinet, and not require specific in-machine installation. The water inlet connection on the GE valve is a 3/8” Female iron pipe thread (FIP). My water source connector is a S/S flex hose with a 3/8” female compression fitting. To mate them I needed to pick up a 3/8” male-male brass connector with one end MIP and the other a compression thread. Connecting them was no problem, but getting them leak-free at the MIP-FIP connection was a bit of an issue. One has to hold the valve in one hand while tightening with the other and it’s hard to get a good grip on the valve portion. I used plumber’s tape first, but on the second try I used 1 wrap of plumber’s tape and a thread filler-sealer called “Hercules Block.” It’s a somewhat messy blue paste, but it did the trick. The wire connections were straightforward, just as explained in the video. I test ran it twice yesterday, and it worked normally, just as the OEM valve, and so far, there are no leaks. The time between failure and repair was only 3 days (not the typical Miele 3 weeks), and the out-of-pocket costs for valve, connector, sealer, electrical connectors was $40. (not $450+). The satisfaction of DIY, and un-shackling from the burdensome, confiscatory Miele system?....priceless. My only regret is that I should have done this after the 2nd failure...or the 3rd...slow learner, I guess....See Morerouting of circuits
Comments (3)Thanks for the replies. Yes, normel, all the wires are running inside existing stud and plaster walls. Whenever I have easy access, like where I punched a hole in the wall to drill through the plate at the top and bottom of the wall, I'll staple the wires. It's nice to know there is no need to staple at mid wall height. So, both are Ok, but one is easier, though it reqires more wire? I like the easy way. I'm also adding more receptacles, and I believe I can use "retrofit" receptacles which do not require me to cut large holes in the walls in order to affix them to the studs. Ted...See MoreBadly done multi-wire circuits (previous owner strikes again..)
Comments (3)There are certainly a few things wrong. My intuition is that somebody changed out the panel and hooked up the wiring in a temporary manner, assuming they will be back to run new wires as something like the kitchen gets remodeled. It seems quite common for remodelers to get an electrician in to replace a panel while promising them the rest of the work, and then never calling them back. This is usually in order to get the best price and get the electrician out in the fewest hours possible, thinking they will be back to fix the temporary stuff at the appropriate time. This leaves unfinished work that nobody feels responsible to fix or don't know better. I have heard too many stories of this when being called to fix these messes. It seems that the "handyman" is always trying to keep as much money from the job as possible. The way they do that is to include the electrician's bid in with theirs, have the electrician make an appearance for the panel and temporary splices, and then do the rest of the work themselves while cutting corners and handing the owner a bill that includes the price for what a qualified electrician would have charged. This is common enough that I won't accept a remodel job unless I am paid in full up front, which keeps someone from thinking they can save money by finishing it themselves....See MoreBosch dishwasher junction box fire
Comments (107)Interesting thread. Our 20 year old Kitchen Aid DW smoked badly 2 weeks ago and probably was a couple minutes from flaming. Had we not been there to turn the breaker switch off out in the garage the acrid smoke from the smoldering PC board with lots of plastic parts would have ruined every bit of carpet, drapes, and upholstery in the entire house. But lucky for us, no house fire, just a small amount of smoke damage. Others not so lucky (search "Whirlpool dishwasher fires" if you want to understand how unsafe their different brands of dishwashers are (includes Kitchen Aid, Maytag, and some Kenmores)). Bought a Bosch 300 replacement. Old installation was hardwired (meaning a 4 foot section of 12 gauge Romex cable was attached to the old Kitchen Aid with wire nuts. The cause of the near fire was the fact that most manufacturer's PC boards that handle 10-15 amps of current cannot reliably OVER TIME handle that high of a current safely-eventually their relatively cheap boards will wear out and start to fail-generally with a small amount of arcing at first. Kind of like a small hole in a dam that leads to a huge flood. I had a circuit board failure on a GE oven-luckily the circuit trace open circuited and did not smoke or flame. Another case of a cheap circuit board being asked to handle large currents. I too added a wall mounted receptacle in a convenient spot under the kitchen sink very close to the Bosch's power cord outlet. Still with me? Sorry, I'm an engineer and don't know how to keep things short-here's the important part: I installed a 20 amp dual function AFCI/GFCI receptacle (Leviton brand, $32 at HD) in hopes of avoiding damage should the Bosch fail sooner or later. AFCI is critical (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter); it detects very low level arcing that you will never hear-especially if you go to bed and run the dishwasher-and quickly remove power from the failing appliance. This is (as Leviton's lawyers probably demand) to "help" reduce the risk of fire. GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor-aka "GFI") performs its age old task of removing power in the event it detects 0.005 Amps of leakage current; it is designed to "help" reduce the risk of shock or electrocution from that leakage current going through you and me. My guess: AFCI was invented to cover a new type of hazard coming from appliances now having electronic control boards that are inadequately designed to handle large currents needed to run heaters in dishwashers and clothes dryers as well as most any appliance having a larger motor. A secondary concern is the small power relays that are mounted on the control boards-they have very little safety margin (the Kitchen Aid used a 10 amp relay to operate a heater that required at least 10 amps)-over time that is a failure guaranteed to happen. Bosch's junction box was a $30 option at HD and I wanted nothing to do with it-and that was before I learned anything at all about all the JB's failures. Good engineering practice told me to do the job right with the best parts I could find. When the Bosch fails-not if, but when-my hope is the Leviton receptacle will do its job. Oh yes, as found at other sites that delve into the Whirlpool/Kitchen Aid control board fires, neither the fusible link on the my control board nor the house circuit breaker tripped to remove power and lessen the damage. My best guess is that the current draw while the board was smoldering was below the trip current for those two devices. Bottom line for me: most "modern" home appliances have a high risk of failure over time. I will make sure that every circuit that powers an appliance in my house has an AFCI/GFCI for protection to life and home. I installed a second one for the garbage disposal and will do the kitchen appliance circuit next. The house is 20 years old and for whatever reason only has GFIs for the bathroom circuits. At $32 bucks a pop that is pretty cheap insurance. Note: dual function AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers are also available and may be a better choice for your house. I did not go that route because our breaker panel is in the garage which gets quite hot in the summer and I don't want to have failures due to the heat (my understanding is there are electronic devices in both types of AFCI/GFCI units). If the breaker panel were inside the house I would put the upgrade in the breaker panel, as that adds extra protection for the wiring from the panel to the appliance-something the receptacle version does not do. The dual function breaker unit typically runs around $70-$80. Back to the Bosch junction box-none of the pictures of damaged boxes shown here surprise me-thanks for showing them. In a way, those poor things are being asked to do a tough job and if anything is wrong-either with their design or their installation-then problems are likely. Kind of like trying to run a marathon every month in 125 degree weather-sooner or later even the best athletes will fail. I designed and built high end factory automation hardware for a company that never took short cuts-I don't think I could live with myself working for an appliance manufacturer, especially after seeing how they try to avoid any responsibility for their unsafe products. Suggestion: never leave any heat generating appliance running with no one at home or with the family asleep. Good luck!...See Morecrcb_itunes
6 years agoBruce in Northern Virginia
6 years agoGN Builders L.L.C
6 years agocrcb_itunes
6 years agoDavidR
6 years agosdello
6 years agocrcb_itunes
6 years agoklem1
6 years agoGN Builders L.L.C
6 years agoDenita
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoDavidR
6 years agoklem1
6 years agoDenita
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agocrcb_itunes
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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