Last feeding of the year for cool season grasses

6 years ago

I was always under the assumption that the last feeding of the year for cool season grasses should be done around Thanksgiving, after the grass had stopped growing but while it was still green and before the ground had frozen solid using a quick release high N fertilizer (ex. Scott's Turfbuilder Winterguard 32-0-10). However, I was reading a factsheet on the UMass Extension School website about preventing snow mold and they recommend to "Avoid heavy applications of nitrogen in late fall. Apply fertilizer a few weeks before dormancy. Slow release forms are recommended for fall fertilization. As a rule of thumb, no nitrogen should be applied after the first frost." I'm no expert but this seems to contradict what I've read here and other places. Can someone clear this up for me? Thanks

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Comments (3)

Joe BigBlue
6 years ago
Went to Site One and got a bag of Lesco 30-0-5

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/recommendations-for-winter-fertilizer-quick-release-dsvw-vd~4967409?n=27

I'll let you know how it goes come spring!
User
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Probably not.

Theories abound and opinions are even more plentiful.

Some relevant results from studies;

1. Root growth is most abundant when soil temperatures are between 50 and 65F.

2. As temperatures drop and the sun's angle is lower into the sky and the days get shorter, turf uses less and less nitrogen. Something like less than 10% of the soil available N gets used (of course, once ground is frozen zilch will be taken up). The prevailing theory is that this is due to ever decreasing evapotranspiration rates. Consequently, the new recommendation is to apply a slow release fertilizer in early Fall to match this diminishing use rate. (There is a UofWisconin study you could google for specifics)

3. Winterizer/late season fertilization (LSF) has not resulted in any significant increase in root mass, negligible or none.

4. Winterizer/late season fertilization (LSF) has not resulted in increased presence of plant carbohydrates (carb storage), in fact, there is a drop in carb levels after winterization.

5. Winterized turf does consistently green up sooner in the Spring and does exhibit higher plant carb levels in Spring than non-winterized turf.

6. LSF (and early Spring N applications) have both resulted in a slightly higher incidence of snow mold (or Spring/Summer disease for the early Spring app). I believe that rate is about 10-20%. It doesn't mean that it will occur, just that there is an increased chance and not making the application does not guarantee that snow mold or disease will not occur.

Draw your own conclusions.

My personal experience is that I have seen a significant improvement in Spring turf quality with winterizer than without, and I have never had snow mold issues at this home. At my old home, I had snow mold the one year that I left my turf very long going into winter (and no winterizer was applied). But that is only my experience in my specific climate, turf and soil.
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Cur or not. Depends on the height. Some pimp snow mold, fungus if left longer but I have yet to see anything linked. In fact one year I left my grass up to 4" in the last cut and the next 2..We saw zero diff in the spring.
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There are several things I think you should consider if you have not already tried: 1) Check with your University Extension Office. They should know of a prairie plant specialist and weed science specialist and how you can contact these folks for expert information. 2) Check with the nearest botanical garden. They may have experts who can also provide information. 3)Check with Conservation Contractors. Some of these people have been involved in restorations for many years. I'll link to some examples below. 4) Give Prairie Moon Nursery a call. I called them once and the person that I spoke with seemed very knowledgeable and was glad to answer my questions. I think it's only fair if they provide assistance to keep them in mind for future orders, though. Here is a link that might be useful: Conservation Contractors
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I'm not sure if we're talking about the same things. I agree that an excess of a fast release fertilizer will burn the lawn. I don't know for sure that it will kill most or all of the soil microbes. But my question is this: Why would chemically synthesized urea kill all the microbes, but urea from urine and manure not kill the microbes? I also agree that fast release nitrogen could migrate to the watershed. But I don't think it matters whether the fast release nitrogen comes from a synthetic source or an organic source. What matters is that it's fast release and highly water soluble (and used in excess). If your town has a ban on nitrogen fertilizers, you wouldn't be able to use chicken manure or blood meal either and they're both organic. As for how something that is harmful to the environment could be organic, there are plenty of examples of things that are harmful to the environment that are organic, especially if you consider excessive amounts. If you want an extreme example of how excessive amounts of certain chemicals can be deadly, do a web search on DHMO. I'm not trying to advocate wholesale use of chemical fertilizers. I don't even remember the last time I used any chemical fertilizers (probably at least 5 years ago). I'm just trying to understand why urea kills the microbes when it is synthesized, but helps them grow when it comes from animals. On another note, aren't algae microbes? If urea kills all microbes, how can it also cause algae bloom? The more I try to understand this, the more confused I get.
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The mycorrhizae enable the plant to more efficiently use what's available. It's like root extensions: the plant can get it from more places than just what happens to be right by the root. Sure. The question is, what is the real life effect of that? The plant lasts 10% longer? 20%? You get 5 days instead of 4? And what does that amount to? It needs to be quantified. You save 2-3 waterings across the span of the entire summer, maybe? It doesn't pass muster to me as far as cost (no fungicide, risk of turf loss) vs benefit (skipping a couple of waterings).
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danielj_2009
6 years ago
I've always left my lawn at 4" and only had snow mold after the very first year, and that is when the lawn was new was more susceptible to problems like that. This year I mowed to 3", but that is for a different reason. I'd say continue to winterize until there is compelling evidence that says not to.

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Last feeding of the year for cool season grasses

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Joe BigBlue

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