I tried some of the very expensive dimmable cfl bulbs (I borrowed them from a fixture in another room). They still flickered, whch probably means that the remote receiver modulates too slowly (ie cheap defective design). It would also be prohibitively expensive (approx $160) to fully populate the four-socket fixtures on both fans with this problem. The ceiling fan is independent of the remote control receiver, which fits inline at the ceiling wiring connection. I'd buy another remote receiver in a heartbeat if I could find one with no dimmer on the lights. Unfortunately all of the receivers have this "feature" which makes them unusable with cfl bulbs. Very frustrating. I'm paying someone $100 to come out and remove the remote receivers this weekend. I can't reach them myself because they are on a 15 foot cathedral ceiling. Arrgh!

The Halogen bulbs are probably casting a wider circle of light than the R30 (IC) bulbs did. In designs that I do in kitchens, I purposly place recessed cans so the light will catch the cabinet fronts. It helps illuminate the cabinets which lightens up the space and also put more light on the counters. The halogen bulbs are much brighter than the IC bulbs were so you will notice the shadows more. What do you object to? Is it just the light falling on the cabinet fronts? You may be able to use a bulb with a more narrow beam pattern. First you need to know what the beam pattern is with what you are using. Look for a measureent in degrees or the packaging may just say Flood, narrow flood, spot. Start with that information and let me know what you are using and what the objection is. And yes, the placement has everything to do with the lighting. ginger@yourlightsite.com

You can hardly tell a difference between off and on! What type of bulb is in there? Grab a higher wattage LED. The wattage rating on the fan is for incandesant and for fire risk because the high watt incandesant gets very hot. High wattage LED (equivalent) does not get near as hot.I am guessing you have a 60 watt in there and would benefit from a 100 watt equivalent LED. I recently installed recessed lights to accompany my fan/light in the living room. The bedrooms have fan/lights and the light is adequate with 100 watt LED bulbs. I would recommend both in a large room if you can as recessed tend to be spot lights and a central light fixture takes care of shadows that recessed lights miss.

Both lights and LED compatible dimmer were purchased within the last few months, so it's latest technology. There are only two on this dimmer and both flicker (by flicker I mean an intermittent dimming, not rapid blinking). One suggestion I saw was that, since they are wired in series, if the first one is having power fluctuations, it could impact the second one. My first idea is to swap positions and see if both still flicker. The problem is that this issue is really hard to reproduce. You need the lights on at full power for 2 or more hours. Because the lights are so bright, we don't usually have them at full power (and there is no flicker). The reason I suspect the Thermal Cut Off Device is that after 2+ hours on full power the lights do get pretty warm. Maybe this behavior is by design?