Here’s the estimate
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6 years ago
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Expectations of Kitchen Designers? (Interior designers?) – pls help
Comments (2)I think what you're running into is Kitchen Designers who are really Cabinet Salespeople. Did you ask if they are NKBA-certified (not a guarantee of a good designer, but it's a good first step)? So many KDs are really cabinet salespeople - they know a lot about their cabinet line(s), but not so much about good design. Did either ask you about your lifestyle, your family composition, your plans for the kitchen, etc.? If not, that's a red flag. Check the Layout help FAQ for the types of questions KDs should be asking you - and that you should be prepared to answer. How do I ask for Layout Help and what information should I include? If you cannot find a good KD, then I suggest starting the design process by posting your space here. We have several professional KDs as well as several talented amateurs who can help you. When you're happy with the layout, go back to the KDs and see what they have to say - both for cabinet specifics in their cabinet line(s) and pricing. If you do find a KD, then see what s/he comes up with. I would still come here and post the layout for additional critiquing. Between your KD and here, you should be able to come up with a functional layout and a nice looking space. Good luck!...See Moreroof estimate- is this reasonable? And which GAF shingle?
Comments (12)I may seem harsh, but hopefully you take away some knowledge from this response. You should run from this contractor! I wrote more in my previous responses, then they listed in the details. With them being certified, they should know details are everything. There's much I see in their proposal I do not like at all. It protects them, not all parties involved. I'll list some, and in no particular order according to your proposal. Their payment schedule is a joke. It should read something like, 35% down at the end of the first working day and all materials are on site. With a copy of lien release given to the customer from suppliers ( no exceptions). The balance to be paid upon satisfactory completion. They state in "12", about a thorough clean up when job is done. This is outright ludicrous. A provision should be included in the contract about tear off, clean up, and securing the site everyday. Do not assume they will secure the site everyday against inclement weather. The clean up process should be continual during the day, with the debris walked across the roof and deposited in dumpster/dump truck. Your roof pitch is only around 4/12, so there shouldn't be debris on the ground during the day. Tarps burn grass in minutes in the hot sun, same with shingles. They should not be shoving the stuff off the roof. They should run a magnet (I still have a commercial type) everyday in the yard where debris had a chance going. The last thing you want you or your loved ones, or a pet stepping on nails. During tear-off, all existing roof covering fasteners should be pulled. Not hammered in. All sheathing should be refastened with proper fasteners. The sheathing comes loose when tearing off. All too often I see people just banging the fasteners back in. Look, the fasteners are not going any deeper, so it's useless to just have them sitting in the holes not holding the sheathing down. The decking should be broom swept, and air blown off before any ice guard, felt or new material is installed. You don't want bits and pieces telegraphing the new install. On #8, galvanized valley flashing. They must want to have open valleys on the front dormer. Galvanized valley flashing went out here in the 70's! No joke, You don't want rust spots in the valleys, or the discoloration. They sell preformed "W" valleys of aluminum in different colors, and copper if you want to throw money at it. Anyone using a metal valley should get it with the "W". I won't go into why. I always preferred a closed valley with cut back, or a closed woven valley. If a cut back is used, the installer must know which area of sheathing gets covered first. And there is more to know than just that. There is no mention of fastener size (length). All too often I was on jobs roofers wouldn't return to. Only to find they used 1" nails. Why? Because when you buy them, you get more per coil case or more per pound if hand nailing. Speaking of nail lengths, on their #10 for ridge vent. They need to use longer nails for cap over shingle vent. I would always use 2". I seen caps blow off because someone tried to cheap out and use the same 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" for the cap over vent. This is one of those tail light guarantees when not using proper length fasteners. Also it should be listed how far back they're cutting the sheathing for ridge vent. Too far and you got issues, some don't even cut it back and slap the ridge up there. It renders the vent useless. They should also list a saw depth. You don't want them cutting into the trusses. I say this because I've seen more than enough of botched work. Their #3. Drip on rakes only? Another short cut. There's absolutely no reason for this. The eaves should have drip also. The size of the face of the drip should be listed. You can get cheap drip edge with a 1" face, or get a nice looking 1-7/8 or there about. Never just on rake only. Also, it should be listed how far over the drip the shingle material hangs. Never should it be even with the drip, and never to the point of drooping over the drip. A 3/4" overhang is usually about right. However, this has to be determined in the field. Their #9. They write 6 nails per shingle. I could look up the requirement for this shingle, but I'm not. Generally there is 4, then when the shingle above it is placed, there will be 4 into the top of the previous shingle. So it gives you 8 per shingle. However, I have seen where people only place 3, so the total would be 6. This is incorrect according to manufacturers instructions. There are provisions for high wind applications, and roof styles such as Gambrel. You do place more fasteners, but the total fasteners holding the shingle will double since the next row also fastens the previous. I seen in your other thread, it appears to be an addition on the end of the structure. They did not address how they will step flash and possibly counter flash this area. Caulking/roof cement is unacceptable. It should be metal flashing, and not galvanized. I haven't looked everything they proposed, but I'm sure I wrote more than enough for you to run from this outfit....See MoreZillow "Estimate" vs Appraisal
Comments (73)Interesting twists and turns and the conversation is kind of like one we're having at work - where is AI valuable, and where are "soft skills / people focused skills" valuable? In Zillow, I would think that they have a myriad of tools available from which to draw and SHOULD be reflective of what an appraiser SHOULD use, as well. Appraisers are supposed to be a data driven as possible to remove bias and the potential for fraud. Banks want a very "safe" value estimation to reduce their risk. OTOH - a Realtor i would view as having a forward looking perspective to judge (or intuit) the market GOING FORWARD in order to advise their client on the future attractiveness and appreciation of a property that they will take into consideration that would be different than an appraisal number. Also, for the seller, the Realtor should be able to see that same thing and price accordingly. Appraiser (and Zillow) likely use only backward looking tools, but I would expect Realtors to add insight and the more emotional aspects of any transaction in order to be able to give better insight into the future state and if something is priced right / a good deal based on a more forward view....See MoreNYTimes: Disinfecting-Make It, Use It Properly, and What NOT To Do
Comments (8)Cleaning is more important than disinfecting in most areas of the home. If you don't clean first then the disinfectant properties of the solution are weakened. If you clean properly not much should be left behind to disinfect anyway. Soap and water beaks down the virus. It emulsifies so it can be removed. I only use disinfecting wipes as a shortcut to wiping up a meat prep area or the toilet seat. I see no reason to go around disinfecting the entire house since we are already sheltered in place and not having outside visitors. We wash our hands more frequently and are mindful of cross contamination. But we don't have to disinfect against our own bacteria. I do wipe, the entry door knobs when after we come from somewhere if we haven't been able to wash our hands. I give my keys and cell a wipe at night the same time I clean my hearing aid. Basic hygiene, nothing special really. As for restaurants they need to train to clean, not just swipe over things. Changing out bar towels and making sure to wipe away things instead of just stirring things around. The same things i see people who wipe down their grocery carts do. Spreading the germs instead of wiping them off and way. Funny I still see people in masks and gloves put their kids in the food basket area of grocery carts. People are strange. No one says boo about it. It makes me cringe....See MoreUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoUser
6 years agoUser
6 years ago
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