Unfortunately I had to go out of town on business for a few days so I had some time to do some research and found out that it doesn't kill the plant which is good. I then called the company I use to spread fertilizer and the like and they came out this morning, fertilized, put grub killer down and spread a fungicide called Eagle. At least thats what they told my wife. I also wonder whether when I had the controller for my sprinkler system replaced a month ago whether they set the watering times too long. I will have to check that when I get back.

Lisa-Marie, the fungus that causes the summer patch on your bluegrass is in the soil and will continue to be there until the end of time. Summer patch is definately a spring disease that shows up in the summer like dbw7 pointed out. There's little homeowners can do to fight back. Fungicide applications can be effective, but the most of them are VERY expensive and you have to constantly rotate them; which means you have to buy more than just one. A gallon of Heritage can cost as much as $600.00, and that's just one of at least 3 fungicides you should have in order to effectively prevent summer patch. Golf courses have people working full time with very high budges, and many of them still have problems with fungus. What I suggest you do is to overseed your bluegrass lawn with Perennial Ryegrass because it does get not affected by the disease like bluegrass does. However, it's supceptible to Grey Leaf Spot which can easely kill it as well. The best Perennial Ryegrass varieties that tolerate Gray Leaf Spot are Greay Hawk blend by Turf-Seed, and Trifecta II by Lebanon. Even the best varieties of bluegrass will succumb to the disease if you have it in your soil, very little can be done about it if you don't use chemicals every 14 days. I have the same problem in my lawn for the third year in row, and this year I've decided to over seed it with Perennial Ryegrass to avoid the summer browngrass. I hope this helps, and welcome to this board!! Auteck

Well, after all these years on this forum, this is the first time (I can remember) seeing this. Bermuda is well known to be disease free compared to other grasses. This particular disease seems to be quite a problem. It appears the best time to apply a chemical fungicide is several months away. In the mean time I would apply two things. One is compost and the other is ordinary corn meal. These two materials work together to enhance the population of a predatory fungus called Trichoderma (try koh DER mah). Trichoderma lives by killing and consuming parts of other fungi. It has worked like magic to resolve my fungal issues since I found out about it in St Augustine since 2002. The application rate for these smallish spots would be by the handful instead of by the 1,000 square feet. I'd start with a heaping handful of each. Mix the two handfuls together and scatter on the spot. Usually if it is going to work you'll see improvement in 3 weeks. If you don't then reapply in 3 weeks. You can reapply every 3 weeks until you decide to do the chemical spray next fall. This mix cannot hurt anything, so if it works, then you have that solution in your back pocket if it comes back next year.

Hi- A few of us are located in NNJ also. We've been having the same problems as you. It's just been a bad year for lawns around here. I also applied Bayer and I think you're supposed to repeat it after 14 days. I would pull those weeds by hand making sure to get the roots and bag them up.