Not Grey leaf spot necessarily, but what they call Leaf spot / Melting out. I don't know honestly it seems like dollar spot is pretty common and the symptoms are there so I'm going with dollar spot on this one. I receive my bottle of Honor Guard (propiconazole) but I have not applied yet. I've been researching but there are some questions I have still, such as the best time to apply, in the morning when its cooler or during the day? No instructions on this that I can find. Also not sure really if I should just spot treat or treat the whole lawn. The recommended rates are .5 oz / 1000 sq ft for dollar spot. Any suggestions on the above questions? The Conditions have been pretty warm and dry, yesterday I took a moisture reading from the dollar spot areas and they were toward the beginning of the "wet" (#8/10 on the soil master meter I have). This area is where the run off goes during heavy rain and gets shade half the day from the house so it looks like too much moisture is the issue here. Also this is the area i seeded later in the season so when you part the grass you can still see straw that is still only partially decomposed which is probably retaining moisture too. There are other small areas in the yard with symptoms but this area is the worst.

Hi! I'm in central western Michigan, zone 5B. I overseeded last fall, but it was mid-September, about 2-3 weeks later than I should have with a KBG, as I know it grows slowly. After getting hit with snow mold last spring, and I saw Jap beetles crawling in my grass and eating my roses mid-July, I also neglected to fertilize all last summer. I did one app of CGM in May and didn't get any soybean down until September before I overseeded, and then did one late app. of urea late November. I did get a soil test last spring, and I know we have a LOT of iron (the hardness in my well water is +19). I don't have the sheet handy at the moment, but I do remember that we were low on K and I did go over with a straight granular last spring - haven't done it since. Now I'm watering once-twice a week in zones of the yard (I don't have a sprinkler system, just a Rain Train and broadcast sprinklers via hose) and I try to get 1/2" - 1" out in one shot starting it first thing in the morning. I think with my sandy soil (I'm not near a lake. I live in the middle of oak trees, so it might be a lower pH?) and how it drains so quickly, that I should keep it to 1/2" twice a week. We brought in two inches of topsoil to cover the sand when the construction was finished before seeding. It's been a struggle against the weeds and trying to get grass to grow. My neighbor's yard looks fantastic. No competition or jealousy there! :)

What kind of grass? What were you planning to do? What is your watering regimen (duration and frequency)? The short answer is that your soil is biologically unbalanced already. Adding more chemicals will throw that balance further off. All you have to do is make the soil normal again and it will be fine. Generally the fastest way to make it normal is to stop using 1) fungicides, 2) insecticides, 3) herbicides, and reintroduce the beneficial fungi that make your soil "normal" again. You do that with compost and organic fertilizer. Compost brings in the beneficial microbes to overpower and control the disease pathogens. Organic fertilizer feeds the beneficial microbes so they can continue to provide that normal balance of predominantly beneficial microbes. That is what normal, healthy soil is. Since you already know you have a fungal disease, what I have done for the past 12 years is apply ordinary corn meal at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet over the entire yard. Why over the entire yard? Two reasons: one is that you can't know where all the pathogenic fungi are, and the second is that corn meal is an organic fertilizer and will leave dark green spots everywhere you apply it. If you only put it in spots, you'll have yellowish grass everywhere except where the disease was. Corn meal works biologically. As it decomposes, it attracts a predatory fungus called trichoderma (try koh DER mah). Trichoderma feeds on the pathogenic disease fungi and eradicates it in about a week. Then it takes another 2 weeks for the grass to start to come back in normally. And no, the disease stuff isn't harmful unless you are a plant. Chances are you are not watering properly. If you can answer the questions above we can help you more.

Thanks for all the information. I took my soil samples to Texas A&M on Friday. I should hear back in a week. As far as the compact layer, the information i stated earlier in a previous was incorrect. I believe the compacted later is the original sod base dirt (black clay-like material) that the sod was put down with. I guess in some places, it really got compacted. The custom dirt that we put down is still down there, underneath this compacted later. That is good. This custom dirt did seem pretty dry. I am going to wait for the soil samples to come back before I make any big adjustments. If the PH is off, I will wait till the fall probably. Today, I put down 10lbs of molasses for every 1,000 sq ft and I fertilized with Maestro Gro's Texas T, 6-2-4 (Made with feather meal, alfalfa meal, soybean meal, wheat midds, corn meal, kelp meal, molasses, humates, yeast and compost). I also shampooed as well with 9 oz of baby shampoo. I will continue with these method's before I core aerate. I may core aerate a small area just to see the benefits. I also have plenty of soaker hoses, so will give that a try too. Great idea. Lastly, I am going to change the way I water. I have one zone with 18 heads. Instead of watering at once, I am going to break it up into 3 or 4 time periods on my designated water day to see if the water will soak down more rather than run off the top to the lowest area of my lawn. I can't see that it runs off, I have the hunter MP 1000 heads so the water distribution is good. I have no impervious cover, so runoff is not a big deal. Just trying to make sure the water does down deep. Will report back in a couple of days. Thanks again for everyone's help.