I'm afraid Al is correct. There are both Federal and State regulations that control the movement of plants across state lines (and sometimes, into individual counties). By moving your plants, you could conceivably be committing a crime. If you want to do it correctly, I would contact the Texas Dept. of Agriculture to discuss any regulations pertaining to the movement of your plants. In some cases, states may prohibit, or limit, the transport of certain species of plants. In other cases, states may prohibit the importation of any SOIL around the plants, necessitating bare-rooting. I'm not sure about Texas (California, where I live, is one of the most strict states regarding plant importation), but they may allow the movement if you obtain a phytosanitary certificate, possibly available through your local agriculture department. Now let's answer your question; how to move your plants (assuming you CAN): I would water your plants well, LEAVE THEM IN THE POTS if you can (it's a bad time to bare-root), stake if necessary to avoid damage, wrap the containers in a breathable material such as newspaper to prevent soil loss from the surface of the pots. You can wrap the paper around the pots, coverring the soil surface and securing the paper to the trunks of the plants with a tie of some sort. Secure the plants in a box that will minimize the possibility of crushing during shipment. I have received many mail-order plants shipped like this, and they typically arrive undamaged. Good luck!

Based on the assumption the lane is 8 to 10 feet wide the tree looks like it is about 20 to 30 feet from the power lines. Base on the type of tree, I do not see any need to remove it. As for the low branches, unless you are willing to hire someone with climbers or a cherry picker. You can remove the lower dead branches with a hammer and a long rope. Tie the hammer to the end of the rope, and arrange the rope so it can feed freely. The throw the hammer over the dead branch, feed the rope until the hammer reaches the ground that pull the branch down by pulling both ends of the rope. MAKE SURE YOU STAY CLEAR AND THERE IS NO ONE ELSE IN THE AREA. If you can not pull the limb down it tells you something about the general state of the tree. I have used this method for years to keep my trees clean of dead wood.

This might be my fave... BM Golden Tan [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) Hasbrouck Brown HC-71 by Benjamin Moore [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Boise Interior Designer Judith Balis Benjamin moore mink [Traditional Bedroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bedroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_715~s_2107) by Yorkton Interior Designer Truly You Interiors BM Military Tan [Contemporary Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by Palo Alto Architect Ogawa Fisher Architects BM Lenox Tan [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Saint Charles Kitchen And Bath Stonebreaker Builders & Remodelers All will look different in your light so you might have to try some samples, although I realize you may not have time or energy to try 16 different samples. When choosing a brown, gold or tan in a hurry the best advice I have heard is to go about 2 shades lighter and 2 shades more grey than the color you like on the chip. Otherwise it will get very intense very fast. Something that looks pretty grey on the chip will look very colorful on the wall!

Ever since I've had my kitchen remodeled, I'm not happy with the gaps between the stove & countertops but when some of my friends/family see it, they say it's no big deal. I know I'm picky but how would some of you feel if this happened to you? I have about 1/2" gap on either side of the stove after the granite was installed. The cutout for the stove was 30 1/2" and I have read where it should only be 30". I feel that my GC allowed this mistake as the granite people say they just install the granite flush with the cabinets. It would be a lot of work and money to have another piece of granite cut and installed and possibly messing up my new cabinets and walls in the process. I guess what I'm asking is...has this happened to anybody else and if so, how was it handled? I'm just torn about this. It's really upsetting when you have a visual look in your mind about how something should look and then it doesn't. The GC did not say that this was a mistake but I've read alot about the specs for the opening and they all say 30". I bought those gap fillers [t strips] and they don't look all that great. Any suggestions would be appreciated.