The only thing I have seen similar to that is lace bugs on Azaleas. They suck the life out of leaves. I had to use a topical bug spray and an insecticide to get rid of them. But check with some local garden people in your area before you do anything.

Hi Prairie_north: I check on Pro-Mix HP (65 to 75% peat moss, perlite, lime, wetting agent) http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-mycorrhizae/ "PRO-MIX® HP MYCORRHIZAE™ HP - high porosity PRO-MIX® HP, with its high perlite content, provides a growing environment which benefits growers looking for significant drainage capacity, increased air porosity and lower water retention. The added benefit of a fibrous peat moss and coarse perlite ..." I notice on the last picture, the pot is sitting against a black saucer, which means water won't drain fast enough. Rugosa HATES WET FEET. Rugosa is known as "beach rose" since it thrives on DRY & SANDY SOIL. The Pro-Mix-HP has fibrous peat moss, which doesn't drain well like sand, plus peat moss when gets too wet, become acidic. Tip-wilting is indicative of acid-burns ... years ago I had the same problem with one of my band in an acidic too wet potting soil. How to fix that? Take the saucer at the bottom out, and use 2 wooden planks to elevate the pot, to air out the bottom. If possible, drill extra holes at the sides around the bottom, to drain off excess water. pH-test the soil with red-cabbage juice. The best potting soils I used become "clear" in red cabbage juice, which means it's a good buffer & neutral pH. The exception is MG-regular-potting soil (green bag for indoor plants) with a higher % of peatmoss, means more water-retention capacity, that became light pink in red-cabbage juice I still have problems with the over 65% to 75% peat moss content. I would add more perlite. When I root roses, I use 1/2 perlite to 1/2 potting soil (already has perlite), yet that doesn't drain fast enough, I have drill extra holes at the bottom of the pot. Rugosa doesn't like fertilizer, so aim for fast-draining, that way you won't get minerals-accumulation either from your tap, or excess fertilizer. I really think the saucer at the bottom is the culprit. That's why stores put their rose-pots on wooden-planks, for best drainage and airflow to the bottom.

Your ph is a little high and the roses may be re-acting to it as this can cause what looks like to me as a mild manganese deficiency starting. If it is, the leaves will go to a brighter yellow. I would give the roses a rest from any spray or fertilizer. Just water and see if the new leaves are normal looking. If they do go yellow then there is a foliar spray for mineral deficiencies. Don't give up on the roses as there is always some thing you can do to solve most basic rose problems.

Thank you everyone. I am so bummed. I have 7 roses that I cut back tonight that have it and my husband is going to rip them out of the ground tomorrow. I only have 3 roses near them that don't have it. And, 2 others further away that are safe. What a bummer. I noticed it a couple of summers ago, but I'm a busy mom of 2 and just wasn't sure what it was and just thought it was new leaf growth. If I had known, I could have probably ripped out the ones that first came down with it and saved most of my roses. Does anyone know how long I need to wait before I can plant new roses? Would it be best to wait until next Spring? The people that lived in this house before me planted these roses all so close together, so I think when I do plant new ones I am going to do less and space them out more. Thanks so much for all your help everyone! I just assumed I could spray them and they'd be ok. :(