Transplanted beech trees and shock
(ryanga7a) Ryan M
6 years ago
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Banana tree transplant shock
Comments (5)Jean is right. If a banana has few roots, cut off most of the leaves. Maybe all of the older ones and half the length of the newest one. You can leave all the cylindrical stalk though. Bananas are tough as nails. In warm weather they are harder to kill outright than to keep alive. Seemingly hopeless parts tossed onto the compost pile not uncommonly "come alive" in rainy weather. There is a 1920s book on subtropical homestead gardening with instructions along the following lines (paraphrased from old memory): "Get your banana "pups" from a neighbor or nursery. Toss them under some bushes out of the sun. Dig a big deep trench where you want the bananas to go. Over the next few months throw every bit of yard debris, kitchen trash, old newspapers, bedsprings, etc. into the hole. When the hole is finally filled to the top, seek out the pups in the leaves under the bushes and plant them in their new prepared bed."...See MoreEvergreen tree with transplant shock D:
Comments (1)proper watering is all i ever recommend for conifers ... or any plant.. never feed a stressed plant ... and i dont buy into all those homeopathic goos ... when all it needs is PROPER WATERING .... do not water a conifer.. in a pot.. like you water annuals or perennials.. they simply do not need that much water ... and potting media is different for conifers/trees ... as drainage is imperative ... you will never make the brown green again ... so its just an issue of getting the root working.. to avoid future damage ... and if that happens.. it will eventually outgrow the damage ... you must have a pretty big balcony.. my Holstrup is going on 10 feet tall .. in about 7 years ... ken...See MoreWhen is the best time to transplant Dawyck Gold Beech tree?
Comments (2)hiiiiiiiiiiii ol buddy ol pal ol fellow obsessor! :D ok, i get it....will do. i'm thinking i'll feel more ambitious in spring, plus i'll want something to do...so i'll wait till then. have you been doing well? i am out of room so trying to figure out what i want to get rid of so i can plant more stuff. LOL by the way, my cherished MC hosta is doing great. it's the only specimen w/ the privilege of being displayed in the front yard. :)...See MoreNewly transplanted trees browning - transplant shock, overwaterin
Comments (20)Just wanted to post a followup on this for anyone who may come across this thread in the future. I always hate finding a thread full of good information, but then not knowing if it actually worked or not. I replaced the trees that died, and the new ones are doing great. Here's what I did differently. (I know that for some of you, these may be the most obvious things in the world, but some of us are still learning, even from our really stupid, obvious mistakes). - I waited til it cooled down. It got cooler earlier than I expected, so I was able to do the transplants a couple weeks ago. - Smaller trees. I did still really need the height, so I went with 6-8' tall trees (some are about 9', actually), but I got much smaller caliper (trunk diameter) trees. I tried for no more than about 1.5" caliper, measured 6 inches above the root flare (some are a little closer to 1.75"). They're definitely much less full, but they'll get the job done until they fill in and grow up a little. It helps a lot that I found out that for screening purposes, eastern red cedars can be planted as close as 4' apart. Bigger, fuller trees really aren't needed at that spacing. - No starter fertilizer. These are trees, not grass. I used some Fertilome Root Stimulator & Starter solution (per the manufacturer's instructions) when I planted, and may add some Superthrive in a couple weeks, just to get the roots really going before winter kicks in. - Much better care of the root balls. I didn't make perfect root balls, as such - after reading a whole lot of back and forth between scientists on the benefits of good root balls vs taking as much root as possible, even if they're outside of the dirt, I kind of went with a hybrid approach. I got as much root as I could, and kept as much dirt on them as possible. I kept all of them covered with dirt of some type for as much time as possible, and ensured that they never actually got dry. Total time from digging to planting was less than 4 hours, and most of that time, they were in some kind of dirt. - I watered with a sprinkler for a few days, to let moisture come in through both the roots & leaves, in case the roots were having difficulty of some kind. Then I found out about Wilt-Pruf (prevents moisture from escaping through the leaves, which causes a lot of transplant shock). I applied it per the manufacturer's instructions, and am now watering with a soaker hose, as Wilt-Pruf should also prevent absorption of water through the leaves. - I haven't mulched yet (life got in the way unexpectedly), but I will be soon. Something else I came across in my reading - mulch isn't required, but most bushes or trees that are mulched in their first year or two after transplant show 20%+ more growth than those that aren't. Since growth & size are my primary goals here, it's worth having that junk in my yard for a year or two. We'll see what, if anything, will grow under these trees once they're established, but for now, it's gonna be mulch. Thanks, everybody, for all the insights provided. Hopefully these results, and what I did to get them, will be useful to someone else in the future, too....See More(ryanga7a) Ryan M
6 years agoLogan L Johnson
6 years ago(ryanga7a) Ryan M
6 years ago(ryanga7a) Ryan M
6 years agoUser
6 years agoedlincoln
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoMattB (Zone 7a Tn)
6 years agoLogan L Johnson
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoruth_in_sc
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
3 years agodavidrt28 (zone 7)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agodavidrt28 (zone 7)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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