For a different perspective Consumer Reports did not find any appreciable difference between 18-22 gauge stainless in their testing which included dropping heavy objects into the sink. Many very expensive high end sinks are 18 gauge, 16 is not necessary unless you are planning to stand on a stool and drop rocks into your sink (how you spend your time is your business) and I think advocating that as a minimum is ridiculous (many folks on here have Ticor sinks which are reasonably priced and are 16 gauge - if you can get 16 gauge in an affordable sink you like you should go for it - apron front stainless sinks are often only available in 16 gauge due to size and support differences). Many new homes will have builder's grade sinks which are 22 gauge - my Mom had one and after 20 years of use it didn't have a single dent. Finish is key and less expensive sinks usually have a mirror finish that does not age well (my Mom had a mirror finish and it looked like crap) - brushed and satin finishes are better. Type of stainless is important - most are 304 but I have read 302 is better but it isn't common. Cheaper sinks are sometimes made from lesser types. Position of drains (usually rear positioning is better to give you better use of your sink cabinet), over flow wall if you are getting a double and sound dampening are all things to consider. Consumer Reports would not rank the companies because they didn't find any measurable difference between brands.If you check good companies like Kohler and Elkay all make 20 guage sinks - but not 22. We went with a 20 that had the features and finish we wanted in the price range we could live with.

While it would be nice if your own insurance agent - whom one would expect to be schooled in these matters - would be willing to offer his advice regarding the language in the release from the contractor's insurance company, I kind of doubt he will do so because that would be practicing law without a license. Your did exactly the right thing in emailing a request for further information and an explanation. As an attorney, I can tell you that it is not unusual for language there to be language stating that one has received money in settlement when the check has not yet been cut. In theory the signing of the release and the receipt of the settlement check are SUPPOSED to occur simultaneously - which is easy to do when one sits down with the other party to sign documents but impossible when things are done by mail. If neither side trusts the other to follow thru, then a sit-down becomes absolutely necessary. It strikes me that your contractor MUST have a local insurance agent to whom the insurance company could send the settlement check and you could then sit-down with the contractor's local agent to sign the paperwork and pick up your check. As for providing a copy of your driver's license, an alternative is to have your signature on the release documents notarized by a notary public who will verify that you are who you say you are. All banks will have a notary available. You could agree to meet up with the contractor's agent in the lobby of your bank, have your bank's notary witness your signature on the release and get your settlement check. As for the final paragraph - it is what is known as a "subrogation clause". Basically it means that if your own insurance company (company A) has already reimbursed you for the damages and your insurance company demands the contractor's insurance company (company B) pay them back, then company B can demand that you give them back the money they paid you. The contractor's insurance company should not have to pay twice for the same damage and you should not be allowed to collect twice. Their subrogation clause could probably be worded better to make it clearer that it is NOT intended to mean that the contractor could demand that you pay his extra premiums if/when the insurance company raises his rates because of your claim. You are right that the contractor is one of the "released parties" so, strictly speaking, I suppose the language COULD be stretched to mean that you would have to pay the contractor's increased premiums - although I doubt that any court would interpret it that way. Perhaps you could insist that they modify the subrogation clause to read: FURTHER, I agree to reimburse and indemnify all released parties of any amounts which any insurance carriers, government entities, hospitals or other persons or organizations THAT ARE NOT RELEASED PARTIES may recover from them in reimbursement for amounts paid to me or on my behalf as a result of this accident by way of CONTRIBUTION, SUBROGATION, INDEMNITY or OTHERWISE. Be sure to insist that the inserted clause say "that are not released parties" rather then "which are not released parties." (The reason has to do with the restrictive versus non-restrictive nature of clauses beginning with "that" versus "which." Alternatively, perhaps you could insist that they add a sentence after the subrogation clause saying: The foregoing does not apply to any amounts which one released party may recover from another released party. BTW - I applaud you for carefully reading the documents they sent you and making sure you understood them before you signed! Hope this helps

I have to give this to our Community Choir that is comprised of all the Christian Church Choirs here. Gayle

Apply centipede fertilizer in late fall???? thats crazy Use a centipede fertilizer like 15-0-15. Do a half rate once everything has greened up in May and another half rate mid summer. You will be good for the year. Or just do one app in May and be done with it. I use Bayor Soil/Turf insect control around the end of June. If you are seeing a ton of grubs, its not a bad idea. A ton of grubs is more than 6 in a square foot of lawn. Don't assume its all insect damage. If you want to check, cut the bottom out of a coffee can and push it into the soil, fill with water and see what floats to the top. Water properly in the AM only. Keep those blades sharpened and keep it around 2in tall. Rake out any old thatch you may come across. Use a preemergent in the fall (halloweenish) and once again in late winter. Usually around the end of Feb, 1st of March. If you got any snow like we did last year, it can really put a hurting on a centipede lawn.