I would very seriously consider closing off the doorway to the entry hall and making that a pantry area. Your traffic pattern would not be that much further to come into the kitchen from the DR and it would help with storage tremendously. If it were accessible from the hall instead of the kitchen (a common older home scenario) then you could have the range cabinet run extend all the way to the fridge wall. I'd also explore moving the door to the powder room to the DR. Neither the KIT nor the DR is ideal, but I think the DR door would be better for most people. What is the narrow door to the left on the range run? It's not shown there on the floor plan, and it's cutting into your storage for that wall. With the overhead view to see what's what, I'd ditch that lonesome cabinet between the bathroom and the exterior entry. It's in your traffic path and makes you have to make the island narrower there. Take that room and add it to the island instead. If it's intended as dish storage, and I can see where it would be convenient to have dish storage there, then the additional cabinets in the island can work for that and you can keep your dishes there. Symmetry on an island that faces the cooking area will never be seen or appreciated. Instead, focus more on function and making it work better. I'm with the others that the DW and trash needs to be swapped. If you closed off that hall door to make a pantry and shifted the whole range bit down, that would give you plenty of room for dish storage right behind the DW on the range wall run.

We are a couple of empty nesters with kids far away. We frequently entertain with small groups of less than ten. Family is small, so even holidays do not bring a big crowd. Working in the kitchen - one of us is the prep cook, moving between fridge and sink area, then to countertop next to sink for chopping. The other is the cook, moving between the chopped food and the stove. We could most days of the week and every weekend. Our friends do not work in the kitchen, but like to hang out close by. We expect them to hang out in the new sunroom adjacent and open to the kitchen. Layout - water and gas can be moved fairly easily. Moving the sewer could be done, but would be a major headache. We cannot move the walls, windows or doors. Tiny walk-in pantry at far end. Appliances - 48" stove and hood, French door fridge set into alcove to appear as counter depth, standard DW, 30" apron sink, MW behind cabinet door. Goal - we've lived with chaos so long, simply having a real kitchen again is my goal. Definitely going with function as the main driver. Want to minimize the clutter left on the countertops. Other - would like to hide the coffee pot, but can't figure out a space that is close to the fridge and the sink to do so. (Heavy coffee drinker wants a spot of cream in his coffee.)

Thank goodness you're moving the cooktop off the island! That's one of the worst designs I've seen for a cooktop island! The following information would be very helpful: Dimensions of the space...walls/windows/doors & distances b/w them. A to-scale layout on graph paper is ideal. However, we at least need the measurements. (Yes, there are some measurements on your layout, but not enough.) A layout showing the connecting rooms, preferably the entire first floor. It allows us to see how the kitchen fits in with the rest of the rooms, what traffic flows are, etc. How do you plan to use the space? Do you plan to have a family? Checkout the Layout section of the "Read Me" thread (linked below) for what information we need to effectively help you. It is a little difficult to read some of the pages b/c they're so light. Tentatively, can you move things around so the sink is on the wall, probably under the windows? Maybe move the ovens to the end of the run to the right of the windows. Then, put the cooktop on the wall that the ovens were on. But, until I know what's all around the kitchen I can't say for certain my "tentative" ideas will work. Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!

When trying to fit an island in a kitchen, keep in mind the following...... (It's kind of generic, so there's probably stuff in it that you don't care about, but I wanted to be thorough!) First, the NKBA recommends minimum aisle widths of 42" for a one-worker kitchen and 48" for a multiple worker kitchen. However, many here swear a minimum of 36" will work in some cases*. So, here are minimum kitchen widths with an island: Island w/cabinets and/or appliances on one side and no seating: Minimum aisles* and no traffic: 25.5" + 36" + 27" + 36" = 124.5" (10'4.5") [basis of next numbers] For one aisle of 42" with Traffic b/w island & one run of cabinets (on larger aisle side): + 6" = 130.5" (10'10.5") For two aisles of 42" with Traffic b/w island & one or two runs of cabinets: + 6" + 6" = 136.5" (11'4.5") For one aisle of 42" and one of 48" (for frequent/heavy traffic): + 6" + 12" = 142.5" (11'10.5") For ideal aisles of 48" (w/multi-worker kitchen or frequent/heavy traffic): + 12" + 12" = 148.5" (12"4.5") Island w/cabinets and/or appliances on both sides and no seating: Minimum aisles* and no traffic: 25.5" + 36" + 27" + 36" + 25.5" = 150" (12'6") [basis of next numbers] For one aisle of 42" with Traffic b/w island & one run of cabinets (on larger aisle side): + 6" = 156" (13') For two aisles of 42" with Traffic b/w island & one or two runs of cabinets: + 6" + 6" = 162" (13'6") For one aisle of 42" and one of 48" (for frequent/heavy traffic): + 6" + 12" = 168" (14') For ideal aisles of 48" (w/multi-worker kitchen or frequent/heavy traffic): + 12" + 12" = 176" (14"6") Island w/cabinets and/or appliances on one side and an island with seating** (i.e., empty wall behind seating): With run of cabinets behind the seats and no traffic or counter behind seats: 25.5" + 36" + 40.5" + 48" + 25.5" = 175.5" (14'7.5") [basis of next numbers] With run of cabinets behind the seats and either traffic or counter behind the seats (but not both): 25.5" + 36" + 40.5" + 54" + 25.5" = 181.5" (15'1.5") With run of cabinet behind the seats and traffic and counter behind the seats: 25.5" + 36" + 40.5" + 60" + 25.5" = 187.5" (15'7.5") With ideal aisles: 25.5" + 42" + 40.5" + 60" + 25.5" = 193.5" (16'1.5") Island w/cabinets and/or appliances on both sides and an island with seating** b/w them: With run of cabinets behind the seats and no traffic or counter behind seats: 25.5" + 36" + 40.5" + 48" + 25.5" = 175.5" (14'7.5") [basis of next numbers] With run of cabinets behind the seats and either traffic or counter behind the seats (but not both): 25.5" + 36" + 40.5" + 54" + 25.5" = 181.5" (15'1.5") With run of cabinet behind the seats and traffic and counter behind the seats: 25.5" + 36" + 40.5" + 60" + 25.5" = 187.5" (15'7.5") With ideal aisles: 25.5" + 42" + 40.5" + 60" + 25.5" = 193.5" (16'1.5") Notes: * The "minimum" aisle width of 36" only works if the kitchen will always be a one-person kitchen and there is no through traffic in the aisle (i.e., no more than one person working in the kitchen at a time (this includes prepping, cooking, cleaning up, getting a snack, etc. and there will be no traffic going through the kitchen to get to another part of the kitchen/house). Some people have varying aisle widths. They'll have the minimum recommened 42" in most places, but 36" at one place (like b/w an island and range) where there will only be one person in that particular space at a time and no traffic going through the area. ** Assumes counter-height seating with 15" overhang, the minimum recommended by the NKBA. Please do not skimp on this overhang. It doesn't really help. People still take up the same amount of room when sitting at the island as they would if you provided the minimum overhang. People can be "squeezed in" just so much...the stool & their bodies will still stick out into the aisle just as much as if there was a 15" overhang. All you do when you skimp on overhang is make it uncomfortable for people to sit at it for more than a few minutes. To adjust to the reduced overhang, people have to sit sideways, "straddle" the cabinets, or sit further back and have to lean forward farther to get to the counter...none of which are comfortable after a few minutes. (If you expect people to sit sideways, then provide 36" of linear space per person rather than 24".) The NKBA guidelines were developed for a reason, not b/c the NKBA was trying to give us all a hard time. They also were not "grabbed out of thin air"...they researched this and other items in the guidelines. One more thing, if you think the shallower overhang will be OK b/c you only expect your young children to use the seating, then remember that children grow very quickly (ask any parent!). Before you know it, your children will be adult-sized teens and still trying to sit at the counter (and probably w/friends). So, don't be shortsighted when planning, look into the future as well. [The NKBA recommends an 19" overhang for table-height seating (30" off floor, note new overhang recommendation), 15" for counter-height seating (36" off floor), and 12" for bar-height seating (42" off floor). They also recommend planning for 24" of linear space per person for counter-height & bar-height seating; 30" for table-height (again, note new guideline).] One thing to note: Bar-height and, to some extent, Counter-height seating are not very comfortable for very young children, for older adults, and for those with certain mobility issues. They also are not the safest seating for young children (clambering in/out of the seat and even just sitting at the counter at a fair distance from the floor). So if you can, try to provide table-height seating fairly close as well.