"1st question, since I have bought CBU for the walls but all the how-tos for kerdi have them using it on sheet rock. Im still leaning toward CBU, but figured it was worth asking. " Good instincts to use CBU. For several reasons I recommend you stick with stick with the CBU. Here's a Kerdi over CBU ditty, it might help if you've never used Kerdi before. 2) "2 The ceiling in the shower. Initially, i was going to tile the ceiling, but my wife thinks it would look like a cave...I had several people suggest to me PVC Beadboard. Any other thoughts? " If a beadboard ceiling will fit the style, you can go in that direction. If you want beadboard but want to avoid the sterile look of PVC, how about teak beadboard? Or a teak plank ceiling. Wood can go well with marble/travertine. Then you can always fake wood on the ceiling with wood-look tile. Or go for a lighter look with glass tile on the ceiling, though plain glass can look cold and modern. Of those I listed, I'd consider teak boards. Natural stone and a natural wood? Why not? 3) L/1100 is plenty good for travertine. But you have to consider deflection in two directions; deflection along the length of the joist (your L/1100), and the often overlooked across deflection fo the plywood that spans the joist bays, in your case, across the 19.2" space between the joists. I recommend you consider two layers of plywood (3/4" subfloor and then 1/2" underlayment if able. If not 1/2", then 3/8" minimum. Ditra (or equivalent) over that. Then tile. Large format travertine demands a protective floor beneath it. 4) Your last photo shows a 1/4" thick to 3/4" thick sloped bed of "sandmortar and membrane". I presume "sandmortar" is deck mud? Mud generally requires a 1-1/4" thickness at the drain. You can go thinner, some guys ust an admix and go 1", some push hard to 3/4" thick. . But going to 1/4" thick, it may not provide a durable base to the shower; cracks, etc. Deck mud just doesn't have any structural integrity when placed that thin. Have you considered QuickSlope or one if its derivatives to establish your slope. I mention QS because it pretty much feathers down to nothing. I think it's an 1/8" thick at the drain end, it's honeycomb structure gives the bed structural integrity. which fits your low-profile requirements. Going hybrid? It can be done. But I generally recommend staying within a company's product line and avoiding "hybrid showers" unless the hybrid version has been warranted, ie, Laticrete's Hydroban membrane with Schluter's Kerdi Drain. Enough for now. Got to go. I'll try to check in tomorrow...Oh, and I'm glad I didn't have to do that drywall. Fun fun fun!!

100 square feet is a good size. We just remodeled our new home to make two bathrooms about that size. Will there be medicine or linen cabinets inside that space? If you rearranged it there is room for 20 square feet times 6 feet high. Where is the shower door? You might be happier with 48x48. 36 is enough as long as you have 48 on one side. With 48x48 you could have offset faucet(s) so you don't have to stand under the shower head(s) when you turn them on. Will you really use the tub? We just sold a house with a Jacuzzi tub. The buyers ripped it out immediately and replaced it with a standard tub, because the Jacuzzi was too high to reach over to bathe their toddler. We used the Jacuzzi once for each of us when it was installed. The novelty of it immediately wore off and we only showered in it for the next 10 years. What I don't like about your design is that every time someone is using the sink, if someone else comes through the door, the sink person is blocking the entry. You have plenty of room, so why not move the entry door to the left a foot or two? Also since you have plenty of room, make the door at least 36 inches wide to allow for future handicap access.

The tub is centered under the windows now and will stay that way. In a perfect world, I would have liked to replace the two windows for a single window over the tub. This would have allowed us to make the shower a bit wider. But there is actually a chimney that runs between those two windows so the windows will be staying where they are and we will only widen the shower by about 6 inches. pricklypearcactus - We have debated replacing the wall (or at least the top half of it) with glass. One downside of doing this is you lose a little privacy in the shower and since there is no door from the bedroom into the bathroom, I like that if I need to I can toss my big towel over the shower door while showering and have a little privacy. (My kids are teenagers now, so they no longer walk in while I am showering, but . . . ) Mayflowers - You are correct that the only place for a towel rack currently is on the rack by the tub, which is not convenient. I like the idea of putting it on the wall by the shower. I am standing in the bathroom now trying to imagine what the space would be like without the Ls and with a 42 inch space between the vanity edge and the shower. If we nixed the Ls, I think we could square off the shower entrance so it didn't have that angle. But then we would either need to change the entrance to the toilet room or that side would be left with the angled entrance. Thoughts?

It would be very helpful if you'd number your choices. Are you planning on ordering the vanity online? You'll be taking your chances on color. Any painted vanity will work with the floor. I like the vanity with the bar pulls going across the three drawer fronts. That is a cool modern look. I can't tell how much grain the wood has with the dark stain though. Does it come in a double sink? I would do that with a modern mirrored medicine cabinet for your small items, like these Robern medicine cabinets. Penny tile isn't a contemporary look per se. Neither is using an accent tile in the shower. I don't think that large format tile needs an accent tile. I'd pick a 2x2 square for the shower floor.