Cabinet one side, wall to dining room one side which size refrigerator
deb maureen
7 years ago
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deb maureen
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Which side of the sink should off-center drain go on?
Comments (13)Thanks, sabjimata, akchicago, cilantro, and pinch me. I think I am going to stick with the right-side installation and center my faucet, even though it means the stream will never reach my drain. Anyone who wants to scream "Nooooooo!" at this point, please feel free... (notwithstanding pinch me's great point about marching to my own drummer, which can never be said enough... thank you, pinch me!) akchicago, your points about pull-out/pull-down sprayers vs. side sprayers are all right on the money. I was actually aware of the disadvantages of side sprayers -- thanks to this site -- and bought one anyway. Why? Because when the end of the faucet's nozzle is a spray head, and its spout is harboring a spray hose, the whole thing becomes quite beefy and contemporary-looking, and my husband didn't think it would look right in our 125-year-old kitchen. So form won over function this round, and I am okay with that... though I'm sure to have the occasional pull-out envy when my thumb gets sore from pushing down on that little button... Still trying to decide if it's okay to cheat the faucet an inch or two left of center (to align with center of window pair), now that I will have the drain on the right. I mean, if the stream's not going to hit the drain anyway, does it matter where it hits? Or is there a reason to keep it as close to the drain as possible, even if it's no cigar? Thoughts?...See Morecabinets deeper on one side than the other? will this look weird?
Comments (13)I think it can look very nice. I don't think the asymmetry will be an issue - the island already adds asymmetry since you have an island overhang on one side. I don't have a U kitchen (more of a wide galley kitchen) but we have 31" recess on one side and 24" on the other. We have a peninsula on one one side, so it's not that comparable -- but we don't notice the difference at all. Here's a picture (from Houzz) of a frame built around a full-depth refrigerator. [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by San Jose Design-Build Firms May Construction, Inc. A couple suggestions: 1) It helps to be a bit more specific on dimensions. The picture above is like our kitchen in that the countertop depth matches the depth of the side panel. With the overhang, your lower cabinets will probably go out 1.5" less than that countertop depth. The point being -- base the dimensions on the countertop depth in this case, not on the cabinets. 2) I have a Samsung and they require 2" clearance behind the refrigerator for proper ventilation. There are a lot of reports of their refrigerators not cooling correctly when you use less clearance. Other vendors have a smaller requirement but you have to go off the vendor recommendation and not an industry standard. The 2" clearance requirement was the reason I went down to the Samsung RF263BEAESR/AA, which is slightly smaller depth. This post was edited by calumin on Sat, Oct 5, 13 at 18:09...See MoreOne side cabinet, one side wall to formal dining room what size fridge
Comments (13)To give you the basics... There are three general types of refrigerators: Standard-depth These are generally the least expensive They are around 36" total depth - including refrigerator box, doors, handles, and required air space behind them Widths will generally range from 30" to 36" Counter-depth These are a bit more expensive than standard depth but much less expensive than built-ins They're usually around 31" deep -- The refrigerator box is around 24" deep -- The doors and handles add another 7" or so to the total depth They don't usually need as much air clearance on the sides & back as standard-depth Built-ins These are usually the most expensive refrigerators - often by quite a bit, especially if it's fully integrated They're usually 25" to 27" deep For standard-depth and counter-depth, the refrigerator doors and handles must extend out past the surrounding walls, cabinets, counters, other appliances, etc. This is so the doors can be opened fully for full access to the interior as well as the ability to easily remove drawers and shelves for cleaning. In situations like yours, we usually recommend a 6" to 12" pullout utility or pantry cabinet b/w the wall and the refrigerator (the width depends on how deep the wall is - the shallower it is, the narrower the pullout needs to be). But, I assume you have to work with what you have. Height may be an issue for you as many refrigerators are now around 70" tall with the requirement for extra space above for air clearance. Unfortunately, it appears the alcove for the refrigerator was not well designed so, as someone else pointed out, you may have to remove or modify that cabinet above the alcove. However, that cabinet appears to be a standard 12" deep cabinet and those are pretty useless over refrigerators, so you won't really lose much storage space. One note, based on the what I see of that wall, if you want a more common size refrigerator (36"), you will probably have to: Put the hinge on the least functional side (so the door opens away from the Kitchen and landing space) -or- Get a very deep refrigerator so it opens into the DR doorway -or- Get a narrow refrigerator so you have room for 6" to 9" of filler b/w the wall and refrigerator How wide is the doorway? You might look into widening the DR doorway so the wall in the Kitchen is no deeper than 24" or so - then you could get any refrigerator around 36" wide and not have to worry about not being able to open the door If you go with a smaller refrigerator - including smaller capacity - you may be able to find one that fits. Is there a place for a 2nd refrigerator elsewhere (e.g., basement)?...See MoreBuilder installed air vent on side wall instead of ceiling in one room
Comments (4)The annoyance of the side vent is a personal one and also based on furniture placement. All of this sounds like a terrible hack job. You can't just tap into a duct and expect that to work well. The dining room will have less air flow than needed and so will the bonus room. Typically, FROGs have higher heating and cooling requirements because of their placement over the unconditioned space so they need more air than other rooms to stay comfortable. Ductwork has to be designed from the beginning for this. Someone (presumably HVAC contractor) knows this so he really tried to minimize duct losses by not adding length and also tried to maximize air distribution by centrally placing vent. Your leverage is unknown. What may work is bringing up code but that depends where you live. In many areas, it is technically required to submit ductwork plans on the initial permitting. If these didn't show ductwork to the space or the current ductwork is not sized as on the plans, code maybe violated. Depending on your house, it maybe supremely difficult to get what you want, which is adequate airflow. Might be better to ask for a credit to cover the cost of a minisplit to put in that room. In many cirlces, FROGs are disdained because of comfort issues. I actually had a master bedroom above the garage in one house, it wasn't that terrible. I have a rental with a FROG and it has 3 vents over a standard 2 car garage. House built in 1983. Still an issue on more extreme temp days. But on a modern house, built tight, in a modest climate, a FROG can be fine....See Moredeb maureen
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