Is it wise to bid on a house without contractor input?
lakeview28117
7 years ago
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Joseph Corlett, LLC
7 years agoUser
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Contractor raised price 50% from original bid
Comments (25)And be careful of the cost plus contracts. No matter how specific you are (we had a 20 page bid sheet, detailing all flooring, windows, walls, trim, paint, built-in's, plumbing, roofing, brick, stone, hand forged iron work) if the builder does not do his job your price just went up, PLUS the % he gets, even though he didn't do HIS job. Our builder did this, couldn't even be bothered to call the supply companies to get our pricing, therefore the house ended up being underbid by $500k!!! Which meant his fees went up quite a bit. It took a long 3 year legal battle to rectify. My best advice would be to have a specific bid sheet, and make him initial & date each item and date and initial the cover page and mark it as the Addendum to the contract. That's where we went wrong, it was difficult to prove that we gave him the spec's when he never initialed them. We won in the end, but what a mess. So make sure that your new builder initials and dates each item to say that "Yes, this price included this". Better yet, do a fixed price but do all your leg work and don't make any changes. That's the only way I would build again....See MoreTurning down a contractor's bid proposal
Comments (17)Robyn, If you're still out there... the process to which you are referring (we call it "getting dry" here) is actually becoming quite common, given the current market and people becoming more money conscientious. My builder, a good friend (and I used to be his bookkeeper) does this sort of thing all the time. You do have to realize that he will make a good 15% - 20% regardless of how much you want him to do. However, if you are feeling uneasy and "taken," you really should look elsewhere... you need to feel comfortable with your GC and have a level of trust established. Now I'm not sure where you are located, but ALL of those numbers look right on to me. That framing number must include the labor as well though. Around here they tend to charge $7 - $8 per square foot (labor only). And my husband is a plumber... that rough-in plumbing number is incredibly reasonable. I know you want to save money by purchasing your own materials, but that's just not feasible in the early stages. For instance, you would have no idea how many studs, nails, joists, etc. to buy. You wouldn't get the same contractor pricing either (we get a HUGE discount with our plumbing supplier). This is something you may want to take on further into the project for finish materials (i.e. cabinets, countertops, flooring, fixtures, etc). Hope this helps :)...See MoreHow many contractors should we invite to bid?
Comments (12)I think 4 is a good number unless they are all bad apples. When you check on the references make sure you ask if the contractor stayed on their agreed timeline (started when promised, worked every day etc). Some contractors drag out jobs, don't start on time etc and that makes it a miserable experience. A lot of times people will get references and call them but never go to see their work. Your idea of a good job might not be the same as their idea. Also some people don't like to say anything negative to stop people from working so you have to conversate with the reference (vs just asking questions) to get them to open up. Whenever people call me for a reference it always throws me off because I was not expecting the call at that specific time. After I get off the phone I think of something that I should have mentioned. If they had made an appointment to see the work then I would have had time to think about the question and answer them properly. Not that I would bash them but I might have some hint that might help them. I can't think of a specific example right now......See Morequestion about getting a bid from contractors
Comments (53)To me, asking "what's your budget" is like a car dealer asking "what do you want your monthly payment to be?" I don't have a fixed dollar amount that I can spend on anything, or a hard cash limit in most cases. Every purchase is an individualized value calculation, and I don't happen to know what everything in the universe costs. If I'm looking for a contractor to build me a new kitchen, I have in mind the level of function and finishes that I want. I have no idea what that will cost. So if I say "$5000" then I'll end up with Habitat Restore cast-offs and sheet vinyl floors. No good. But if I say "$100K" then I'll end up with exotic counters and stuff I really don't value. No good either. So starting with a budget doesn't work for me. What does work is "here's the look I'm after. I want wood cabinets, granite counters, drawers in all the bases, and heated tile floors." They say "that will run between $40-50K." Then I say "hmm, that sounds reasonable" or "Hmm, that seems like more than I want to spend, can you break that down between the components so I can see the cost drivers and decide what's worth keeping and what I want to cut out?" And yes, for me it comes down to things like "it's an extra $1500 to put double stacked crown molding on the cabinets? Nah, never mind on that." But I might bump my budget up by $1500 for heated floors. Do most people really know what they want to spend on a bathroom or kitchen or room addition? I have to shop first, and have a collaborative process to figure out what budget I'm most comfortable with....See MoreAnnKH
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7 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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