Lol!!! Toni, I meant all the leaves are falling off!! I didn't have this problem last year. The only difference is that I have kept the room a little cooler especially at night this winter than last, but just as much light and sun. Of course when my plant room was warmer last year, I had more bugs...Go figure. Now I have to choose. Could it be that it should be warmer in this room so the soil is warm enough to take up nitrogyn and other nutrients with all the lights on? Is yellow veining followed by leaf drop a symptom of not enough light or warmth? That lemon meyer tree has even lost a few branches now. I stuck it right under a grow light and put the thermostat higher yesterday and now lets see what happens. I am going to keep the nights higher than 65 at night, and pay a higher heating bill for that poor plant. I hope it makes it. It is a toss up between a cooler room and lack of pests along with poor growth and higher humidity, or more warmer room temps, more possible pests and more work at humidity and keeping pests away, but better growth... Boy do I wish I could leave them out all year instead this. I can't wait to stick them outside already, especially this problamic tree, my lemon meyer.....:-(

Looks like your trees might be suffering from some bark disease. You need to remove the landscape rock from near the trunk out a couple feet, it could be trapping unneeded moisture too close to the trunk and be causing that bark splitting. Can you take a close up of the trunk on both trees and post the photos? The one leafless branch on the upper photo looks like it's had twig die back, trim it back to where the branch looks green which could be at the node where it grew from. What is your grow zone? How often do you water and fertilize? Evan

Hey Everyone! Thanks so much for all of your advice, and input. Apologies for my lack of activity recently. Shortly after I realized the fertilizer is what was killing the tree, I repotted it back to the container it came in, with fresh soil. I continued providing love (grow light, root booster, etc) for a couple more weeks until the entire fre tree was brown. Determined to have a lemon tree, I started 10 seedlings from an organic lemon. A couple weeks later I was at the nursery, and I mentioned my situation to an employee. She said I can bring the tree in and they'll exchange it for a new one. They get their next shipment of citrus trees in November, so I'll swap it then. I'm determined not to make the same mistakes with the new free as I did with the first one. I am going to keep a couple of the new lemon trees, and give the others away once they've matured a bit more. @Sunshine: Thanks for the advice regarding manure. I followed the advice of an employee at a local nursery. I should mention it was composted manure. The pot we chose was not only for decor, but also the size. Advice online suggests a white or light colour pot to keep the roots cool during summer. The pot has a 1" hole in the bottom (similar to terra cotta pots). The only reason I added styrofoam and gravel was to prevent the soil from sitting in water before any extra was able to drain. In hindsight, I realize it was unnecessary. I don't think the pot was a contributing factor to the issues the tree was suffering though. I definitely haven't given up. I'm not discouraged by my learning experience. In the end I'll have even more tree, because if not for this experience I wouldn't have started the seedlings.

In sandy and calcareous soils, foliar applied fertilizers are 4 to 20 times more effective when compared with soil applied fertilizers. (Lingle & Holmberg, 1956.) https://citrusagents.ifas.ufl.edu/archived_presentations/fall_prg2010/Citrus%20Agents%20Web%20Site%20-%20Nutritional.pdf Citrus foliar fertilization has been an industry standard practice in citrus groves for over 50 years. https://crec.ifas.ufl.edu/extension/trade_journals/2014/2014_April_citriculture.pdf Where soil PH is too high or too low, resulting in 'lock up' of nutrients (frequently micronutrients) in the soil, foliar application of those nutrients will ensure rapid response in the trees and prevent growth from being restricted. Effect of irrigation water acidification and soil pH on citrus nutrient availability https://citrusresearch.ifas.ufl.edu/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/7.-Morgan-Expo-2019.pdf Four winds growers sells over 50 varieties of citrus nationwide. Here is what they say about misting, "In winter months, heated rooms may need additional humidity. Placing the pot on pebbles in a saucer will elevate the tree above the drainage area, and improve airflow and humidity for citrus. Misting citrus foliage with a simple spray bottle is another way to help citrus cope with insufficient indoor humidity in winter." If you have new leaves and new shoots it is really beneficial to mist those. Because of the VPD they loose moisture much faster than mature leaves. Flowers are also very susceptible to losing moisture and misting can help them set fruit.