If the amount of light and water its getting is different from what it got in your office, then that's the problem. When I say the 'amount of water' I'm not necessarily referring to cups, but possibly natural humidity, and frequency of watering - if it's getting less light, it'll need less frequent watering, especially as it's later in the growing season too - yellow leaves usually mean too much water (and if your potting soil is 'normal' then it's mostly peat, rather than fast draining grit, and so is holding onto water for ages below the surface, so repotting might be considered). It may acclimatize to less light, but not if you haven't adjusted its watering issues to match. And consider humidity as well, a tray of water, with stones in it under the pot keeping it from touching the water (and rotting roots) will be more effective than a spray or two daily.

Plubienewbie2, Do check for spider mites. If they are present,then you can treat. When i did view your trees, i did notice that the soil looked rather rich and heavy, but i didnt want to say anything since its not the time to repot. Since you did mention that you will repot this summer, then i would definately go to a lighter mix and think twice before you add fine sand into the mix. IMO... ther are all sorts of mixes available and easy one to make up. Especially since you used the soil from another pot!!! Yikes!!! : ) They are doing well for the winter. Keep an eye on the water . DOnt use to much during the winter. I bet you will see a big improvement this summer when you repot in a better draining mix!!! I am still very happy with the way your trees look, especially in the middle of the winter. You will have leaf loss. If you think you have spider mites, it can be fixed quite quickly since they haven;t damaged your plants to much. look under the leaves and on top and really give them a good check. Anyway, I think they look great!! Good job!!! Chuy, Remember "Atictropical?" and how his Plumerias look like? He lives in Utah and has many beautiful tropicals as well as these awesome Palms planted in the ground. He truly is a "zone pusher" He does use lights in the winter, but that usually isnt a problem. So yes, you can grow Plumeria in Utah!! DOnt worry, they will adjust !! Kevin, I hope you see this and let Chuy know how you grow your Plumies!!! Thanks, Kevin!!! : ) Take care, Laura

Hi - thank you all for your help and advice. So I've checked the soil under the surface and it's very damp. Initially when the leaves started turning yellow I mistakenly thought that they weren't getting enough water so made the problem worse. I'm going to try not watering them for a while (I'll try a couple of weeks as suggested). I've also loosened some of the soil up a bit to make it easier for the water to evaporate. The window is facing South-East so not ideal but the best one in the Apartment. I'm thinking of getting a grow lamp of some sort to help them out. How many hours of direct sunlight do they need? Or is the answer "as much as possible"? We're in Virginia and so they peppers are pretty warm through the day particularly when in direct sunlight. I guess it's fingers crossed now and see how they recover. I've been checking out a few of the pepper pictures on the board and am jealous - hopefully I'll be able to followup with some decent pepper pics of my own. Thank you again.

@cari, yes, I will work on acclimating it so it doesn't get shocked. I use pebbles on top of most of my other plants and will do that here too. @rina, I don't know a ton about growing succulents and was trying to err on the side of not being too wet. (Most of my other plants are ferns that I water with mindless abandon and they couldn't be happier. I know succulents need to be treated differently.) I read that succulents absorb water through moisture in the air around their roots, which is why it was important to have coarse soil. Is that incorrect? Mostly I didn't think about it being difficult to rewet until Cari asked, and apparently I was somewhat overconcerned about accidentally drowning the plants. I plugged up the drainage hole last night and have it a long, slow watering to completely soak the soil, and then opened the hole again. Should the echeveria completely dry out until the soil is bone dry before I water again (provided it doesn't croak) or can it be watered when it's just a bit damp still? I was thinking of seeing how the plant does with more water before trying to repot. What are your thoughts? Here's a picture of the soil mix I used. The white bits are pumice. I'd say that picture makes it look like there's more pumice in the mix than there is (meaning more has settled toward the top), but there's definitely a lot more in this than there is vermiculite (I think) in "normal" potting soils. Also this is a pretty small bag, maybe a total of two gallons, just to give some scale to the size of the pieces. Thanks!!