thomis, good work on that Apple orchard. But, in the photos the sun does appear on the other side from the N direction on the layout. One year tree growth seems fair not great. Fertilizer may double the growth. Cutting the tree down to 30". In the last photo your holding a tree that looks like a 48" whip that grew one season. It won't hurt the tree to cut it to 30". I'd leave it that high so not have to duck when mowing. You can spread the vertical tree branches now and in a month or two they will hold that angle. Clip the branch tips off to an outward facing bud.

I suggest you pinch back all but your leading bud at top of tree to maintain central leader and the dominance of the bud going most straight. You can let the rest of the tree grow for now as long as nothing threatens the dominance of the leader.

Mark: The limb-spreading suggestion I made on Austransplant's pear tree was not only to begin to establish the tree's framework, but to reduce apical dominance, or the tendency to grow upward. Branches pulled or pushed down closer to horizontal will usually slow their growth. It is common to find 3 or more central vertical branches on young pear and apple trees, but pruning each of them back will usually result in a flush of new grow at each of the pruning sites the following season, and is unlikely to stimulate lower branching. If you want to select one as your central leader, and grow the tree in that style, then you would completely remove all but one, leaving that one alone in the hope it would grow laterals as it continues its upward growth. In the case of Austransplant's tree, I think he/she has perfectly good branches there that could form the basis for a nice, vase-shaped scaffold. I do not underestimate the difficulty of bending those branches down and holding them there in the right position, but it can be done with a little work and imagination. The ideal angle for the branches of a vase-formed tree is 60 degrees or more, but this does not have to be achieved all at once. For now, I would try for 40 or 45 degrees, depending on the flexibility of the branches, then follow with more bending next spring. Once the bends are set, they will not change. The vertical branches on Austransplant's tree originate at about the right height for a vase tree, and there would be no need to try to stimulate branching further down the trunk. Once the existing branches are spread and apical dominance defeated, the tree is unlikely to grow in more central vertical branches. I think this procedure would result in more precocious fruiting, and a lower, spreading tree, which is certainly easier to maintain in all its requirements. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Hi again. Please don't apologize for the small photo- I'll confess to not knowing how to post one at all, so you're way ahead of me. The larger one made things much clearer. About the fireblight issue: Yes, it can be very serious for pears. A few years ago a local nurseryman persuaded me to remove a Bartlett I'd planted and replace it with a Gold Spice on OHF5xx on the grounds that sooner or later the Barlett would get blight and the OHF rootstock and Gold Spice had shown themselves to be pretty resilient. So I gave away the Bartlett, and it died this year of fireblight. But do be prepared to spray for fireblight if it becomes an issue locally. Pruning is an essential control of fireblight (to remove blighted material) too. So far I've been lucky, even though this year there was quite a bit of it around. Youre mileage will vary- a quick google search will give you a wealth of information, such as this link: http://www.crophealth.com/fire_blight.htm Also, a regularly, properly pruned pear will have an open, airy structure that is less inclined to disease, and will make it easier to detect the first symptoms. So in time you'll need to prune it, and in time it will require only maintenance pruning. I'll take the liberty of copying one of Don's responses to me, when I asked him about summer pruning my youngish pear: >>* Posted by jellyman 6/7VA (My Page) on Tue, Sep 5, 06 at 11:59 Mark: I think it depends on the tree and its individual circumstances and characteristics. Summer pruning places stress on a tree. In my orchard, where all the trees are healthy and vigorous, and mulched at least once a year with a thick layer of stable manure, that stress is a positive factor since it promotes fruiting spur development and helps control unwanted vegetative growth. I don't think I would summer prune a weak, sick, or spindly tree, or a very young tree that is just establishing its scaffold. But when they reach 5-6 years of age and begin substantial fruit production, I think you can switch over entirely to summer pruning so long as trees remain healthy. One other thing I have done to the apple trees in recent years is to completely remove the central leaders and change them over to more of a vase shape. I think this has improved the color and quality of the apples, as well as making the trees easier to spray, thin, and pick. And I have cut off these major leader branches in late summer to try to discourage the bushy regrowth that will inevitibly occur at the pruning cut. Regrowth still occurs, but it is less vigorous than if done in the dormant season. When bushy regrowth occurs in the center of the trees, I cut it off immediately as I wander around the orchard. I usually carry a pruning shears in my back pocket when I am out there. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA My own instincts for your tree are to prune it this March in such a way as to encourage some of those lower branches to develop, but Don may suggest waiting another year, and he knows what he's talking about whereas I'm still struggling with a lot of it. I'd really like to hear other opinions and instruction on that. Hope this has helped. Good luck, M