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Fruit & Orchards

Young apple tree pruning question.

15 years ago

I planted 15 one year whips in November 2007. In Feb 2008 I pruned them extensively, as I was instructed to do so by my local nursery fellow. Most of them I headed back to "waist high" about 30 to 36". A few of them, I headed back to about 4 feet. I did this because I was being a little rebellious and wanted a taller tree. Well, I think the scaffold limbs on these few trees are too high up so I am considering heading them back again next month to the recommended 30". I know this will set them back another year but I'm more concerned about the long term health of the trees. I guess my question is... these 5 or 6 trees will now be established as far as the root systems. Will heading them back this drastically do any damage? (there is a picture on "my page" of one of the ones with very high scaffold branches)

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Comments (6)

theaceofspades
15 years ago
thomis, good work on that Apple orchard. But, in the photos the sun does appear on the other side from the N direction on the layout. One year tree growth seems fair not great. Fertilizer may double the growth.

Cutting the tree down to 30". In the last photo your holding a tree that looks like a 48" whip that grew one season. It won't hurt the tree to cut it to 30". I'd leave it that high so not have to duck when mowing. You can spread the vertical tree branches now and in a month or two they will hold that angle. Clip the branch tips off to an outward facing bud.
thomis
Original Author
15 years ago
ace, thank you.
what is it about the sun you mentioned? I didn't quite understand what you meant, if it is a good or a bad thing about the suns position relative to the orchard layout..
that last photo you mentioned, that tree is on bud 9. You wouldn't head that tree back and wipe out all those upright growths? Maybe I'll just leave it. I trained them out after that photo was taken so they are at 60 degrees. now. thanks again
thomis
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Hi Jiver! I live north of Detroit and also have a HoneyCrisp. This is its fourth year of life. The first year that it fruited we had about five gorgeous and tasty apples (that is all it gave us). Last year it was full of apples, but it was also full of every pest and fungus known to Michigan apples (Cedar Apple Rust, flyspeck, Plum Leaf Curculio, apple maggot, web worms, leaf roller, and more)! I was a newbie and had no clue how to prepare for it or what to do about it. This year I have read up and am hoping for better success. I want to avoid chemicals so am climbing uphill. I would love to keep up with you as we both attempt to keep our apples healthy to harvest so maybe we can learn from each other. I cleaned up every leaf and dropped apple, threw away all the bad apples from the tree, and carefully inspected the tree (often) for signs of bad leaves or bugs (which I pinched off upon discovery). I semi-thinned (left two or three on each bunch) my apples out a few weeks ago but hadn't yet learned about bagging. I sprayed it with copper soap and a soap spray distributed by Gardens Alive to control fungus. This method requires reapplication every 7 days AND after every rain. This is high-maintenance but not a big deal when you only have one tree. I just bagged my tree this week and noticed as I was out there that several of the baby apples had bug bites already. I am afraid this means they've been parasitized, so I clipped them off and threw them away. I thinned to only one or two apples on a bunch and bagged all that looked healthy. I hated to clip off all those with bug bites, but I should still have over 100 large apples to harvest. I think next year I will be sure to bag it the week BEFORE Memorial Day since this week (the week following Memorial Day) there was a fairly high incidence of insect activity. I look forward to hearing of your success.
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I am far from an expert, so proceed with my advice at your own risk. Here goes: the tree is so young that you have plenty of room for correcting the error. If it were MY tree, I would loosely stake the tree trunk straight now. Then, when it's dormant, i would cut the central leader back to below the top bend, and shorten some side limbs. For the next threeyears, don't let the tree produce any fruit. The tree's energy needs to go to developing strong roots and trunk. In a couple years, when the trunk is much stronger, remove the stake.
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geraldo_linux
15 years ago
I'd leave it that high so not have to duck when mowing"

I agree with the Ace. I have had trees like that and while ladder work is not a great thing, the tree is up out of the way and easy to work around. You have come this far with it so keep going. You should have told us what root they are on.
applenut_gw
15 years ago
Bud 9? Shoot, I'd plant two trees between each of the others in the row and add another row down the middle.

In April take a utility knife and notch above each bud down the trunk and this will make them sprout a branch. Cut off the ones you don't want and train the others to grow out horizontally for a good branch angle. You may want to spread out that vertical growth also, either with branch spreaders or clothspins glued to rocks.

Very nice fence and mulching by the way.

Applenut
rosefolly
15 years ago
That's really a beautiful orchard. I enjoyed each and every one of your pictures.

I also grew up in rural Pennsylvania where orchards used to abound. Many of those old orchards are now housing developments, alas. But we can plant new orchards, and so we do.

Rosefolly
thomis
Original Author
15 years ago
Thank you all for your kind comments. I appreciate your advice!

Thomis

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