I knew a lady who had a 'Formal Room'. Her house was known, locally, as "The Castle", and was a Tudor dating from 1925. Anyway, the 'Formal Room' was a large walk-in closet next to the kitchen, where, when the maids weren't doing anything else, they could go and get a 'Formal' (party dress/evening gown), and "iron-on-it" for awhile. The lady's daddy had owned a beer joint, but she'd been Miss-something-or-other, and had snagged the richest boy around. It was real smart of her to have 'The Formals' where the maids could grab one, when the Lady of the House, or her Daughter, called from upstairs, or from the Country Club, and said, "Vinah! Git me thaaayit blue Dior ready. Wuhrrr goin' ta thuh University Club tanite!", or "Git me up some formals, Queen Esther! Tha inlaws are flyin' us up ta thuh KENtucky Derby." That 'Formal Room', now that you've jogged my memory, was probably the house's original Pantry, and is roughly the size of YOUR pantry. In fact, your house is roughly the same size as 'The Castle'. And its facade seems about as complex and expensive-to-build as 1920s Tudor architecture. Yours is a HUGE, luxurious house, by most people's standards. So, I'm baffled as to why the dining table is relegated to a 13'x13' 'Dining Area' off the Kitchen. I'm guessing you're in someplace like Northern Michigan, where people are very unpretentious. But still, there seem to be a lot of people in your life, and jamming them all into that little space, when food seems rather important in the scheme of things (the well-developed kitchen... the large pantry....) would seem to potentially make for tense and unpleasant meals, when the whole family is together. We recently moved back South, when it turned out we'd taken over another corporation (honestly, I didn't mean to...), and someone was offering us too much money on our almost-complete house outside Portland, and somebody else took our lowball offer on a silly, overgrown "Old-South-Style-Dream-Home" (on considerable acreage, with millions in landscaping and embassy-style electric fencing that we were getting basically for-free). As much as I hate Mississippi, all those tempting numbers made the move back home impossible to resist. So, here we sit. This house had the typical tiny, prissy little Dining Room, just big enough to hold the previous Owner's "Mamaw's (Grandma's) Mahogany Dining Set from Montgomery Ward" (C. 1957). The space was too small. It became my husband's Library. Stretching across the back of "The Gracious Mansion" was some bizarre free-flowing conglomeration of space, that was a den/great room... something... I had that space gutted before I even let my Decorator in the door. Didn't want to give him a cerebral hemorrhage... and it's cheaper to let your design team know the raw dimensions from the get-go. They're going to come in and take measurements, and photograph every stub-up and framing anomaly... So I had studs, sub-floor - tutto - sprayed in white primer, before they arrived. Well, I had sold our Portland house before I was able to use my custom table built for 30. But that table (and a kitchen designed for caterers) turned out to have made the house irresistible to my Best Friend's Daughter, who ONLY entertains formally, and otherwise has meals across the meadow at her Parents' house. I have a history of selling my houses to pairs of surgeons. These particular surgeons, despite their youth, paid cash. Seems they'd each been letting their trust incomes pile-up while they were in residency. Good kids. So, here, in my newly-acquired bargain manse, I wanted the same thing: long table, with three big chandeliers overhead... lots of sconces, mulberry silk shades for really soft lighting... but with a big, long buffet, because this IS the South, and we ALL dine buffet-style. In Portland, caterers and rent-a-butlers are fun people. In Mississippi, they're failed actors and musicians, and are bitter, spiteful little bundles of passive aggression. And anyway, everybody at our table here, even when there are 30, are 'family' in some way, and the Caterers really don't need to overhear whatever schemes we're hatching, or whatever dirt we're dishing. Although we use fancy plates and fancy goblets and Whiting's 'Lily' flatware from 1902, we DON'T DINE FORMALLY. Everybody's too busy, and it's basically an open-house-in-the-Dining-Room: arrive at some approximate hour, grab a plate, leave whenever... But the table seats an easy 30 (three feet for each person), with blazing chandeliers overhead, and my favorite ancestor, a banker from Riga, glowering over everybody, from the center of the longest wall. It's a practical room: brick herringbone floors that can be mopped with strong soaps; fractionally non-parallel walls for better accoustics; embossed velvet 'papering' the walls, for even better accoustics; a tented ceiling where it once 'cathedraled', for soaking-up our family's cacophony; sturdy chairs, and a sturdy table... And "immediate family", for us, can easily fill the room. We totally fill up the room with people, at least once a week. I'm thinking that you're happy 'Yoopers' (or some sort of Central European/Alpine types, in a snowy part of America) with none of our Southern pretensions or obsessions. But still: wouldn't you be able to use an old-style English 'Long Room', with a long, rugged refectory/trestle table (a long, narrow, rustic table), in a more expansive space? A refectory table can be used for reading, computing, etc., when not used for dining. What I see on those plans just seems like the 'kitchenette' in a 1950s tract house... a tract house that just grew and grew. Your house is the size of a MANSION, but the dining area is like a breakfast nook in Levittown.

I'm familiar with the Phoenix brick wall yard. Do you or your neighbors have any trees that cast a shadow over your yard? And which direction does the back of the house face? The reason I ask is a friend of mine in Gilbert fought with his sissoo tree trying to grow bermuda for years. He finally went with St Augustine and is very happy. Contrary to what you're thinking, it isn't that hard to keep grass green in Phoenix, even St Augustine. During the heat wave y'all had last August (115 in the shade) he was watering the St Aug once every 4 days. Here's a picture of his back under the sissoo. - taken last March 2015. That's a west wall to the right so from mid morning on his yard is shade. St Aug is a lot easier to care for than bermuda, so you might consider going with that. Tell me about your shade and I'll help you get prepped. I'm not worried about the slope, so that's good. You do not need any more soil, though, so get that out of your mind. You just need to fix the soil you have. That's easier than your plan. Generally grass seed goes down on top of the soil and should not be buried. What you do is press it down either with a heavy roller or with your feet. If you go with bermuda seed, get a mix of Sahara, Princess, and Yukon. First you need to get the soil as settled and level as possible. Get the sprinkler on it and water it deep. Apply at least 1/2 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans out and time how long it takes to fill the cans. That's 1 inch. That will be your watering time from now on, so memorize it. My time is 8 hours for my water pressure, hose, and oscillator sprinkler. That's a nice gentle rain. But then I don't water again for at least a week. The soil needs to dry out completely before watering again...but I'm getting ahead of myself. Water the ground until it's pretty wet. Then don't walk on it or you could compact it. Let it dry for a couple days and see where the low spots have developed. If you have a low spot in the center you should pull soil up from a spot that is supposed to be lower into the center to raise it up. There should be a slight crown in the center so the water will drain away from there - but not toward the house. If you need more soil I suggest a relatively coarse, gritty sand. Gritty like aquarium sand with sharp edges, but not nearly that huge of a particle. The bermuda will grow up through the sand just fine, and sand is easy to move around to get it level. Level the soil/sand with a long board and/or a home made drag. Drag it level, water to settle, and reevaluate whether you need more sand for the new low spots. Keep watering every few days to settle the soil. This will also sprout as many weed seeds as you can. Once you have it level it should be the end of this month. Then spray the new weeds with Round Up to kill them. Keep watering to sprout more weeds. A week later spray out the new weeds. Then you're ready to seed. Scatter the seed, walk on it to press it into the surface of the soil. Water 3x per day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) for just long enough to moisten the soil - not saturate it. It should never be soggy. Do that until you get 80% germination. Then start backing off on watering frequency and going up on the time. We have plenty of time to cover that detail. Note that this is completely different from the plan you came in here with. If you would like me to go through your plan, step by step, and explain why this is different, I can do that. So here's my problem with bermuda, especially for new folks. If you really want it to look good, it needs FULL sun for at least 6 hours per day. This means that the grass that is north, east, or west of a building, brick wall, tree, or shrub will be thin and ugly. You can reseed every year and pull out all the stops, but it won't grow there. Secondly Bermuda is a nitrogen hog. If you want it to look good it needs to be fertilized with a high N fertilizer once a month. Thirdly it needs to be mowed at the mower's lowest setting 2x to 3x per week depending on how fast it's growing. If you have any holes for the mower wheels to fall into, it will scalp the grass. The good thing about bermuda is that if you stop watering it for 6 months, it will come back with the first rain. St Augustine, on the other hand, only needs fertilizer 3x per year, mowing at the highest setting every other week, and is shade tolerant. It is a little more expensive to get started because it does not come as a seed. It will die in Phoenix if you don't water it for a month in 115 degree temps. But it should go 3 weeks and recover with water. This is probably generating lots of questions. I'm happy to explain anything I've said. I'll addressing proper watering or you can search this forum for "deep and infrequent".

Your second drawing helps a lot. I did not understand what you were referring to by "alcove" and "niche" in the original write-up, so could not reply. I like the seating outside the shower. I like the open shelves there for towels and I see that you have figured out placement for towel bars, as well. I would suggest a couple of robe hooks, too. If you are not now placing any grab bars in the shower, be sure to put the 2x4 bracing between the studs in the right places for them to be added later. Take photos of their location with measurements showing, so that you or the next homeowner can find the bracing when they want to add grab bars for safety. At a minimum, put one near the entrance to hold onto as one steps into the shower, and one along the long back wall to hold when under the shower spray. Water closets/toilet rooms create big problems for people who need walkers or wheelchairs. I had to take my bedroom door off this summer after a knee injury because my rollator walker would not go through the 30" door. So by making your door smaller, you have made this room far less likely to be usable if you have a similar issue. Let's hope that this is not the home in which you plan to grow old, either. Caregivers cannot help in these small toilet rooms. Another problem with these toilet rooms is that one has nowhere to wash before touching the door. The swinging door would have been much more hygienic, since one could open it with elbows and forearms, on the way to the sink.

Overall impression: It's a decent house. Specifics I'd consider: - It doesn't seem to be a Colonial -- more like a Southern Porch house. A Colonial is more likely to have a small stoop over the front door rather than a house-wide porch. The good news is that a stoop is going to to considerably less expensive than a wide front porch, and you're unlikely to ever USE the front porch anyway. Examples of Colonials with a stoop: - Your foyer is large ... I'd lose the bump-out. You have plenty of space for people to enter /stand by the stairs as they take off their coats. - Your downstairs circulation looks good. - Your rooms are large. I live in a 1970s ranch, and my rooms are roughly the same. The positive is that they're comfortable for a growing family. The negative is that you need lots of furniture, and making a change (painting a room or changing the carpet) is expensive. I'm looking forward to downsizing, but my kids are out of the house. - You have three eating spaces here: dining room, kitchen island, breakfast room. Probably a space outside too. Is this in keeping with your lifestyle? Do you really need all these eating areas, or have you just put them in because "it's what nice houses have"? - Same question about the gathering-spaces on the first floor ... you have a large living room AND a large family room AND an office. How do you anticipate using each of these spaces? For most families, a "happy medium" is a large space where a group can gather coupled with a smaller space that can be closed off for visual /acoustical privacy. This combination allows the family to be together AND it allows for one person to separate to work, read a book, watch a ballgame alone, listen to music, etc. You seem to have two large spaces and one very small "away room". - This is a small thing, but you don't want those short wing-walls dividing the breakfast room from the family room. They'll just be in the way. You can differentiate the spaces at the ceiling. - The office/bedroom is a great size for an office ... not so great to ALSO accommodate your arthritic guest. Note, too, that your guest will have to walk out of the room /around a closet to reach the bathroom ... at the very least, move the closet towards the front of the house to position the guest closet to the bathroom. How deep is that pantry closet? It's probably 18-24", whereas a shower needs to be at least 30" deep. - What I would do with these three public gathering spaces: Make the living room into a living room /office /bedroom /divide it off with doors on both sides /use it as the "away space". Keep the family room "as is". Lose the current office /bedroom ... and, instead, use that space for a larger bathroom /mudroom /definitely keep the pantry. - Consider built-ins on each side of the fireplace ... you need storage in the family room. - No, no, no to the winder steps ... these pie shaped steps are dangerous. Instead, go with a solid, square landing. - Consider your backyard access. You have one door, which will be hard to reach because the breakfast table will sit smack-dab in front of it. - The mudroom is small but adequate ... though, being in the the middle of the house, it will be a dark /uninviting welcome home. - What size is the garage? Most people here will say that 24x24 is a good size. Straighten out the family room and the garage so the roofline and the side wall will be simple /economical. Upstairs ... - I like that you have the laundry positioned near the bedrooms. So many saved steps. - The kids' bedrooms are fairly large, but their closets are minimal. - All of the bedrooms should have windows on the sides ... natural light from two directions improves every room. - The poor kid in Bedroom 3 will hear the washer /dryer going thump-thump-thump and the shower running. Ideally you'd place closets between the kids' bedrooms as a sound barrier. Note that the kid in Bedroom 3 will knock the bedroom door against the closet door /will ruin both doors. - Divided bathrooms don't really work out so well. With two bedrooms, I'm assuming you have two kids ... two can certainly share one bathroom. I'd lose the duplicate sinks ... drawer storage near the sink is vastly superior to multiple sinks. - Why such a large master bedroom? - Double doors leading into bedrooms don't work out so well. Consider that you need two hands to open the doors ... and consider where your light switches will be (hint, behind the door).