Callings all TKOs! Seeking guidance as I start my reno.
Hi All -
First-time home owner seeking advice as I start this adventure! Been lurking here for awhile now soaking up all your knowledge, but it's time to actually get some work done.
My kitchen/utility room remodel will be DIY except plumbing, electric, counters. House is a modest 3/2 ranch (1400 SF). The small "dining room” is the only eating area in the house. This will be a rental someday, so my focus is on durable, neutral, economical finishes. I have an architect (dad) to help, but want to start here with the TKO experts! Need to keep costs under control (can move doorways, walls, but no additions). My aesthetic is modern, but the house is transitional, so I need to balance that. Mood words would be: clean, light, open, casual, natural, efficient. I like the white/wood/metal look. Here are kitchens I like: http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/7758431.
I’m mainly here to get the layout right, but am open to all thoughts, suggestions, ideas. This is a working kitchen. I like things to be very accessible. I think I’d like some open shelving. I try to cook fresh foods as much as possible, love freezer cooking and I like to shop in bulk. The struggle will be keeping a clean, minimal look yet having enough storage to keep things organized in such a small space. My dream kitchen has no uppers, but I don't have enough space for that. I don’t have a ton of stuff, but do have a lot of small appliances - Vitamix, coffee making supplies, Breville compact oven and copper-plated Kitchenaid mixer which will be on the counter. I also have an unsightly water ionzier that I would love to conceal. Just might have to leave it on the counter and build a cover for it. Also have Instant Pot, juicer, stock pots, etc. that I use frequently.
Right now there is so much blind cabinet space it’s maddening and counter seating in a doorway. I do like counter seating in general and I like the spacious peninsula counter top, but I’m not sure there’s room to do either properly. I want the cabinets to go to the ceiling. I would love pantry cabinet if possible, but also need to maximize counter space.
The utility room is right off the kitchen. My thought for this space is that I want to put a 2nd sink with the same uppers and lowers from the kitchen where the water heater currently is (will be moved to garage). A stacking washer/dryer with some built in cabinetry will go at the other end against the exterior wall. This is the only section of the house that is not on a slab, so I’m hoping my plumber can run a drain for a new sink to where the washer drains. Remains to be seen, but I *really* want a utility sink. The W/D hookups are for a side-by-side setup, but at 50" wide, the room is not wide enough to completely open the dryer door (great design!). There is currently a regular 32” interior door from the kitchen to the utility room, which I would like to change. I prefer a door that can be tucked out of the way, but due to the plumbing in the wall a pocket door likely won’t work. I don’t love barn doors, but that might be the best option. I’d like to keep it open much of the time but don’t want the door in the way.
For the materials:
Cabinets: Possibly Conestoga (open to suggestions). I don’t like the IKEA interiors unfortunately. White uppers to ceiling and wood lowers (natural quarter sawn oak) or possibly dark lowers. Simple full overlay (shaker or flat panel). I like 27-30" deep lowers in places that can work.
Counters/Backsplash: Quartz (light or white), simple tile BS
Floors: Wall-to-wall Coretec (except bathrooms)
Sinks: 30" single-bowl undermount stainless in 33" cab in kitchen, 23" utility sink in laundry room (both Kraus), Faucets: Hansgrohe Cento
Appliances: Already have 36" GE Cafe CD fridge and GE Cafe electric range. Probably Bosch dishwasher. Unsure on hood. No microwave.
TIA!!
Comments (12)
mama goose_gw zn6OH
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoLeaving plumbing and appliances in current locations, if the fridge doors do not open fully, I'd cut back the doorway a few inches. If the fridge door opens enough to allow removal of crispers for cleaning, then leave as is. I'd pull the base cabinets forward to meet the fridge box, and build a ledge at the back of the counters, to provide space for S&P shakers, oil bottles, etc. Put a full depth cabinet above the fridge, and panels on the sides.
I'd remove the cabinets on the short leg to the left of the sink, put the DW beside the sink, and have open shelves above for dish storage. You could have shallower shelves, which turn the corner, for glasses and cups. In the following plan I moved the door to the LR over, to provide more space for a trash pull-out, and for seating. If you need more storage, tall pantry cabinets can span the length of the DR wall to the left of the garage/laundry entry.
If you are considering switching the kitchen with the dining area, here are a couple of other ideas. The first one puts the sink on the wall shared with the laundry, to save costs, but the large window would need to be replaced with two smaller windows. It takes advantage of the current LR door to recess the fridge. If plumbing can be moved, the range could switch with the sink, but the low window would still need to be replaced, and the sink off-set slightly, to leave space for the DW. The doorway from the hall could be widened (red rectangle).
The second plan turns the LR door into a pass-through, but I don't know if you can move plumbing, and you also need to move electric for the range--although it's not too far from the dryer. The dining area is opened to the LR, and the doorway from the hall has been closed, with seating at a built-in banquette, leaving plenty of floor space for traffic.
Another variation of the above plan, would be to have seating on the LR side, with new a new beam and support posts:
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ladydub
7 years ago
sena01
7 years agoDo you need a doorway to the kitchen from the front entry?
You can consider transom windows or pass throughs so the entry won't be too dark.
I'm thinking something like this.
or like this.
You can consider something like below for your small appliances.
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7 years ago
cpartist
7 years agomama goose_gw zn6OH
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoYou mentioned having seating on the LR side, but not moving plumbing because of the slab. You might be able to re-frame the pony wall, so that the drain could be extended in the wall, a few feet to the right--if the plumbing is in the wall. If it's not in the wall, it might still work to move it to the right, if you use a trash pull-out to the left of the sink, because the trash can uses only the front half of the cabinet, and the tracks could be placed on each side of the pipe.
You also mentioned moving the door from the laundry, to provide space for an extra cabinet, so in the following plan I included those two ideas. I moved the sink over, so that the seating doesn't interfere with traffic from the hallway to the LR, and to provide prep space between it and the range.
The drywall corners on the hall doorway would be appropriate in a house built in the 80's, with a modern vibe. I like the clipped corners on the base cabinets, but I don't think they would be necessary, and this plan would put the range in a more protected spot.
ETA, I checked the images for Martin Moore kitchens--love them! I love the English country look, and the cabinet style used on the 20s-40s in this country (Shaker, inset, slab drawer fronts). I have a vintage cabinet run in my kitchen--kind of like what would have been in a butlers pantry in a large home. I didn't see any short cabinets over a pass-through, and I can't say I like that style, but if it's the only way you can incorporate adequate storage, and you like the look--it's your kitchen. :)
mama goose_gw zn6OH
7 years agoI went through the pics in MM's portfolio and found this one. It looks like a mirrored backsplash, rather than a pass-through, but I think this might be the style of short cabinets you meant. Since they are above eye level, I think they would look fine. I'd much rather look into the LR or at someone seated, than myself in the mirror, as I cook. ;)
sheloveslayouts
7 years agoladydub
7 years agoladydub
7 years agoOh and here are my favorite Martin Moore "aspiration" pics. I'm wondering if I could do a standard 30" cab (or maybe a bit shorter) all the way to the ceiling (8' ceilings) and then do an open shelf below it? I also love the mirrored pendants in the 2nd kitchen.
mama goose_gw zn6OH
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoI'm wondering if I could do a standard 30" cab (or maybe a bit shorter)
all the way to the ceiling (8' ceilings) and then do an open shelf below
it?I've always liked this kitchen, where the homeowner did exactly that. I remember, at one time, reading about how she removed the cabinets mounted at standard height, and moved them up, to make room for the open shelves:
The range hood looks way too high to me--never noticed that before, and I think the ceilings might be higher than 8'. With 8' ceiling, 30" cabinet, and 4" crown, you'd have space for about 7" between the open shelf and cabinet bottom, if there is no light rail added.
sheloveslayouts