Would you give up your laundry room to add a half bath?
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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Mongo, would you give me some specs on your fab bath??
Comments (11)I thought I had a more comprehensive series of photos, but I might have not brought them over when I bought new computers a few weeks ago. The following are not pretty, but they might help: ABOVE: This shows a couple of things I had to work around. High over the toilet is a jog of the vent pipe, it comes into the room because it jogs around a load bearing beam in the wall. Lighting: You see two illuminated light bulbs. Those are the sconce locations for the "new' design. The original design had two sinks, two wall mirrors, and three wall sconces. The old wall sconce locations are the covered up junction boxes. I redid the wiring so there is no live wring in those now unused j-boxes. Outlets: Look at the middle shelf in the closet on the left. In the back right corner you can see a box. I built that to house a couple of electrical outlets. Two outlets for inside the closet, another outlet that is on the closet sidewall facing the sink, you can barely see the cover plate for that box on the closet wall to the left of the drill. More electrical: In the 48" tall cabinet that hides the toilet, there are four outlets in the upper part of that cabinet box. There is one outlet that faces the sink, there is another on the opposite side that faces the toilet. There are two inside the upper cubby to provide power to items in the upper drawer. To protect those outlets, there is a false back wall in the rear of the upper cubby of that toilet cabinet. The cabinet itself is about 32" deep, the false back wall is about 10" out from the cabinet's back, affording roughly 22" of depth for the upper toilet drawer. The cabinets: Nothing fancy, 3/4" birch plywood boxes. Horizontal shelves/tops/bottoms are recessed into the cabinet sides in a 1/4" deep dado. Titebond glue and screws. Cabinet backs are 1/2" MDF, recessed into the cabinet sides/top/bottom. Glued and screwed. Recessing the cabinet backs into the cabinet helps keep the cabinet perfectly square. I typically use a 2" wide vertical stile on my cabinet face frames. I prefer my frames to be flush with the edges of the cabinet sides. With the cabinet sides being 3/4" thick, two of them make 1-1/2". So I'll use a strip of 1/2" filler between adjacent boxes to get that 2" thickness. With my face frames being flush with the inside faces of the cabinet sides, to get square face frames you need square cabinet carcasses. You can't disguise sloppy construction with this method. Toekicks: Under the cabinets you see scrap pieces of 2x4. Those were eventually covered with wood and painted black. They simply limit the depth of the hole under the cabinet to round 8", giving dust bunnies less room to hide. ABOVE: This shows the same run of cabinets with the face frames installed. You can see the electrical outlet on wall of the left closet, facing the sink. You can see the outlet on right side of the toilet cabinet, facing the toilet. ABOVE: Everyone needs a place to keep their "to do" list. I know I'll never lose this list. At least not until I cover it with the teak top. ABOVE: Remember that really small vent pipe that jogged into the room? Well, I covered it with this really big soffit. Nothing like overkill, eh? I actually used it to balance out the visual weight of the upper part of the closet on the left side of the sink. Visually, it centers things to the open area over the center of the sink. Might sound like a lot of silly voodoo design, but visually it feels comfortable to me. The band around the upper walls is backer for the crown molding. ABOVE: Speaking of teak...this is 4/4 teak, or "four quarter" teak. If you go t a lumberyard and by a "one-by-four", it'll be 3/4" thick by 3-1/2" wide. If you go to a lumberyard and order 4/4 lumber, it'll be 1" thick. For 4/4 thickness or less, I'll use one row of biscuits. For 5/4 and thicker, I'll use a double row. In this bathroom the tub deck is 2" (8/4) thick, the sink countertop is 1-1/2" (6/4) thick, and the toilet cabinet teak top is 1" (4/4) thick. ABOVE: I usually use epoxy with teak. I thought I read a recent article that the newer titebond forumations work well on teak, but hey, when you buy epoxy by the gallon, you may as well use it, right? Except that I buy Titebond 4 gallons at a time. Hmmmmmm.... Okay, anyhow, I use epoxy. Teak is an oily wood, so prior to using epoxy I'll wipe down the edges to be glued with acetone. The acetone removes the oils. I mix the epoxy, apply it to the biscuits and the edges with an acid (flux) brush, sap it all together and clamp it up. Biscuits are designed to absorb moisture from water-based glues like Titebond and expand within the cut slots, they really lock the pieces together. Although there is no moisture in epoxy for the biscuit to absorb, it still provides more surface area for the epoxy, plus the biscuits help register and align the teak during the clamping process. ABOVE: After the epoxy has cured. I'm getting ready to belt sand these with 80-grit to smooth it out. Top photo is for the "toilet" cabinet, the bottom photo is a teak window sill for the window behind the tub. So...not the greatest series of "how to" photos. But hopefully they'll help a bit. Mongo...See MoreA small first floor half bath + laundry - What size?
Comments (3)I had a similar arrangement before my remodel. W/D (not stacked) were behind the bifold doors. Toilet (hidden in this photo) was perpendicular to the vanity. The space was about 6'4" x 12'6". The laundry closet was deep enough for the W/D that I purchased 30 years ago, but not deep enough for newer machines. The toilet and vanity were tight, but within code. There was no space for sorting laundry. I put a portable laundry holder thingy in the hallway in front of the bifold doors. I used a living room chair for folding clothes and matching up socks. Remodel is just finished and I don't have a good photo of it yet. I moved my W/D to the 2nd floor hallway, near all the bedrooms - more convenient for me. I expanded the powder room to include a full shower (which is used daily) on the exterior wall (window is inside shower). The toilet was moved 6" to make space for the shower. The vanity is where the washer used to be....See MoreSmall first floor full/half or laundry+half bath?
Comments (15)Do you have a separate Dining Room (this is where it would help if we saw the layout of the entire floor - both here and on Kitchens - not just the addition, the entire floor). I'm asking b/c if you do, you might consider making the table space a banquette and taking more space for the Powder Room. (Bench along the Powder Room and, possibly, "top" walls) Regarding the laundry - I'll be honest, I would not want my laundry anywhere where guests could see it - and putting it in the Powder Room means guests will definitely see it! It might help to build an enclosure around it - it would at least hide the washer & dryer, but it wouldn't help with any laundry sitting in the room - clean or dirty. Note that expanding the Powder Room may mean going with the narrower window (8'+ vs 10')....See MoreFull Bath to Half Bath for a nice Laundry Room & Mudroom?
Comments (7)Does the third bath function as a powder room that just happens to have a shower or is there another reason for it? Pool bath? Shop or outdoor cleanup before entering the main house? Can't really think of any others, but those might be reasons why someone would pay more for a full bath in that location, but if it's functionally a powder room, a shower wouldn't seem to add any value at all -- functional laundry space will....See MoreRelated Professionals
Clarksburg Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · King of Prussia Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Ridgewood Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Oklahoma City Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Jacinto City Interior Designers & Decorators · Clinton Township Interior Designers & Decorators · The Crossings General Contractors · Catonsville General Contractors · Dover General Contractors · Hayward General Contractors · Jackson General Contractors · Kettering General Contractors · Lakeside General Contractors · San Carlos Park General Contractors · Summit General Contractors- 8 years ago
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