Khalid, just saw this post Jan. 11. Thanks for the great pictures! I love the looks of that river soil as well as Augusta Louise.

I've been dumping my old rose petals back into my beds since I read an earlier post of yours so appreciate the good tip!

Do you get cold in your area? My roses just went from 6F to 81F yesterday. That kind of cold is just not normal here and the wind has done a lot of damage also. Hot and 40 miles per hour gusts today. Need to water but thunderstorms expected for days this weekend.

We've had humid drippy days and bone dry dusty windy days so my varieties are really getting tested! If they survive, I should have some good data for everybody next spring!

I hope that I'm doing not any damage by leaving the plants heaped up with manure and shavings when it gets that warm. The low was in the 60's yesterday but a few days ago the windchill was around 0. Or am I worrying too much about the swings?

Straw wrote: "SOLUBLE nitrogen is needed PER EACH watering for pots, nitrogen is available readily in SOLUBLE form, but it takes a long time for bacteria to convert from solid nitrogen to nitrate (useable by plants). When I applied solid blood meal NPK 12-0-0, it takes 2 weeks in warm weather, and 1 month in cool weather before leaves pump out !!

The dry composted chicken manure Coop-poop has no odor and NPK 2-4-3, compared to very low nitrogen in compost. Below University of Davis in CA listed yard-waste compost to have high NPK range of 1.5-0.5-1.5, and low NPK range of 1-0.2-0.5. A nitrogen of 1 is pathetic in pots, and potassium level of 0.5 cannot protect leaves from fungal disease like blackspots."

Absolutely agreed. I had been using cottonseed cake, black tea leaves / coffee ground and chicken manure as a primary source for nitrogen in the pots. With time, it depleted and in season other than monsoon, I water my pots with the tap water that is pH 8 so deosn't help much in braking of nitrogen. And then in monsoon, it rains like hell and whatever nitrogen is there gets leached out. So this year I tried 36-0-12 after the monsoon for ensuring quick replenishment of N and K and you can see the results.

Another problem with pots is availability of limited space. There is no space for filling more stuff in the pot and one has to remove the top layer frequently which is also not good as it contains lots of beneficial microbes & fungi and even worms. It takes quite some time, in my experience, to reestablish a healthy top layer once it is removed. Hence use of soluble N and K. What do you say Straw?

Varporvac: I am back in Islamabad after 7 days. Will post photos of growing foliage soon. And I agree, it has a beauty of its own.

Lavenderlace: The weather in your area this year doesn't look very good for the growth of roses. I hope and pray that all your roses survive this harsh weather. It's hard for the plants to handle a sudden change in temperature. In Islamabad, it doesn't get very cold. Lowest temperature is like -1 to -2*C (30 to 28*F) which is not a very low temperature for roses (less a few tea roses perhaps). The temperature in Islamabad, however, has been sort of gradual and there have been no sudden changes in temperature / weather. It is raining in the city since past few days and the mountains surrounding Islamabad are getting lot of snow (but no snow is Islamabad city). The temperature is cool, like 0 to 5*C (32 to 41*F) which is good for roses.

When I was on Batura Glacier (shown in photos above), the temperature at night used to go below -20*C (-4*F) and that was cold, specially when you are in the wilderness and trying to survive in nature..... that actually was very very cold. (-35*C in a city is bearable but -20*C in the wilderness is very very harsh and we stayed three days and two nights out at the glacier in a stone hut). So when I came back to Islamabad, I felt as if it was summers.

Will post a few pics of sprouting roses soon.....

best regards

Khalid: Check on the below link as to why nitrogen is more efficient in INORGANIC chemical form, rather than ORGANIC form for pots:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/agriculture/nutrient-management/nitrogen/understanding-nitrogen-in-soils/

" Nitrogen can also become available for plant use from organic N sources. But first these organic sources must be converted to inorganic forms before they are available to plants.

Organic N that is present in soil organic matter, crop residues, and manure is converted to inorganic N through the process of mineralization. In this process, bacteria digest organic material and release NH4+-N. Formation of NH4+-N increases as microbial activity increases. Bacterial growth is directly related to soil temperature and water content.

The NH4+-N supplied from fertilizer is the same as the NH4+-N supplied from organic matter.

Plants can absorb NH4+-N. Ammonium also has a positive charge and therefore, is attracted or held by negatively charged soil and soil organic matter. This means that NH4+-N does not move downward in soils. Nitrification is the conversion of NH4+-N to NO3--N .

Nitrification is a biological process and proceeds rapidly in warm, moist, well-aerated soils. Nitrification slows at soil temperatures below 50 degrees F. Nitrate-N is a negatively charged ion and is not attracted to soil particles or soil organic matter like NH4+-N. Nitrate-N is water soluble and can move below the crop rooting zone under certain conditions."

http://www.extension.umn.edu/agriculture/nutrient-management/nitrogen/understanding-nitrogen-in-soils/

*** From Straw: Ammonium has a + charge and soil can hold on to that. But once that is converted to Nitrate-N at warm moist, well-aerated soil .. like potting soil, that get leached out with water.

NOT ENOUGH BACTERIA IN POTS TO CONVERT ORGANIC NITROGEN TO INORGANIC NITROGEN, before it's available to plants.

This explains why putting high-nitrogen sources in dense & heavy clay is effective for a long time (clay holds on tight to ammonium). Plus there's more bacteria at alkaline pH to fix nitrogen.

However, using SOLUBLE nitrogen get converted fast to Nitrate-N in warm, moist, well-aerated soil, and get leached out.

CONCLUSION: less nitrogen is needed for in-ground, especially clay, but more nitrogen is needed for pots since that gets leached out in warm & moist & well-aerated soil.

Khalid, thanks for the kind thoughts on my roses. It's been a roller coaster for sure here!

I've been keeping an extra sharp eye on Jude the Obscure for you too for your own root thread. I do have to say that it doesn't look the best after the extreme cold while the Austin's Heritage looks like an evergreen. But Heritage's leaves always looked great here while Jude, not so much. But I greatly prefer Jude's blooms.

Austin's site described Jude as very free flowering and "fair" resistance to disease, which is what I'm seeing here. I'm assuming that they sell own root? They describe Heritage's disease resistance as "poor" though, which I'm not seeing at all.

Straw, thanks for the info on nitrogen in pots!

Lavender: Jude likes it alkaline. David Austin sells roses grafted on Dr. Huey for USA, and Jude is very wimpy as own-root. A friend roots Jude easily in alkaline sand, versus my own-root Jude broke out in blackspots with acidic rain (pH of rain is 4.6 in my Chicagoland, and even lower in the East coast). I post a pic. of healthy Jude when I had it in pH 8 alkaline clay, topped with pH 8.2 red lava, plus pH 9 gritty lime .. that's just to neutralize acidic rain, see link below:

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4198011/your-plans-for-roses-in-ground-and-pots-soil-prep-and-fertilizing?n=69

Note that nitrogen is most available when the pH is between 6 and 8:

I have a feeling that some of my own root Judes aren't going to fare as well in the winter as they did in the summer. Our warmest fall on record has now added cold for the record books!

Lavender: Wimpy own-root like Jude needs fast-drainage, yet constant moisture & alkaline pH. Roots in sandy soil like yours go deeper than roots in my heavy clay.

What I realized this winter: Doesn't make sense to put organic matter on top where it dries out in hot weather, or serve as a moist medium for insects' larvae to hatch in wet weather.

Organic matter is best AT BOTTOM OF PLANTING HOLE, to retain moisture below and to force roots to do deeper for water.

Heirloom rose-nursery is right. I didn't realize that until I lost 1/2 of my tomato crop in 2002 by dumping tons of wet leaves in the fall. Early summer that became an acidic swamp, and verticullum wilt (fungal infection) rotted 1/2 of my tomato plants.

This past summer: it was a decline in health when I topped my pots with grass-clippings. Acid rain went through that, pH dropped, and roses broke out in blackspots. Organic matter becomes even more acidic like Kimchi when soaked in acidic rain.

Topping with organic matter is great in dry & hot & alkaline climate like California, but DOES NOT work with constant rain nor dense potting soil with acidic peatmoss.

In rooting roses: plants are healthier if WATERED FROM BELOW, rather than on top. That's why nurseries' bands are 90% opened at bottom, to allow watering from below and forces roots to go deeper.

Watering on top, or a layer of acidic & wet organic matter on top is THE BEST WAY FOR PESTS TO GERMINATE, be it white-flies, aphids, midge, rose-slugs larvae, blackspot & rust & mildew spores.

Dry soil on top prevents fungal spores from hatching, and dry soil also discourages pests' larvae & eggs from hatching, esp. midge. For that reason, Cantigny rose park (1,200 roses) DO NOT USE mulch: just dry dirt.

Best health was with leaves AT BOTTOM OF PLANTING hole for both roses and tomatoes. I did that for high-achiever roses in 2012: Liv Tyler (40 buds per flush), Evelyn (always healthy). Francis Blaise (clean until frost). I filled 1/2 bottom of my raised bed with leaves first, then poured soil on top, then topped with alkaline horse manure (pH 8) last.

The acid released by organic matter break down the hard-bottom layer for better drainage, plus to dissolve bottom-hard minerals into SOLUBLE for plants.

http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/4198011/your-plans-for-roses-in-ground-and-pots-soil-prep-and-fertilizing?n=69

Below is Pat Austin in June 15, with wet clay at bottom, which forced roots to do deeper. Pic. taken June 15. Roots will go where water is, thus wet organic matter is best AT BOTTOM of planting hole to force roots to go deeper.

Khalid I pruned mine as well. Next project is reporting to the larger pots. I also got 3 new bareroots : Barbara Streisand, Firefighter and Memorial Day.

Anna: I also order Firefighter (died on me one winter), and Barbra Streisand .. both as own-roots.

Khalid: Your rootings look really good for the past 2 years !! I went over your old thread of rooting roses n 2015. Some questions:

1. How often do you water your cuttings? Or how much rain do you get when you start your cuttings?
2. Do you root roses during monsoon season? Or do you root cuttings mainly during drier & cooler winter? What's the temp. during winter-rooting from cuttings?
3. Are your cuttings in full-sun in the winter? If they are in partial shade, how many hours of sun per day give best growth for your cuttings? THANK YOU.

Kitty Belandez in sunny & warm California stated that her "mist-box" prevented sunlight, thus less growth in her cuttings. So she rooted roses in full-sun, through her mild winder, with misting. Bluegirl in hot Texas roots roses in FULL-SUN, with misting.

Val in warm Florida stated " I am rooting under white poly that is about 50% shade. I have an intermittent mist system that runs for 10 seconds at a time every 10 minutes for about 12 hours a day."

In my zone 5a, FULL-SUN through cool weather gives faster growth for own-root roses. I don't move my pots in partial shade unless it's over 80 F.

Straw, I did plant all of mine with organic matter in the hole but there was a group that I used commercial manure compost versus manure I had composted myself, high in alfalfa. I was afraid that mine wasn't old enough and didn't want it to heat up so bought a lot of what was labeled as "compost with manure" at Ace Hardware.

Now that they are old enough to compare, I'm quite disappointed in the commercial mix. I think that you had mentioned that they use quick lime or something?

Lavender: I have the exact experience. In 2015 I dug up both William Shakespeare 2000 and Golden Celebration since both got holes in their leaves from too much rain & poor drainage. I put the entire bag of Ace "Humus & manure" at pH over 8 in the planting hole of Golden Celebration, versus cheap Schultz potting soil (pH 7) in the planting hole of W.S. 2000.

Few months later: W.S. 2000 sprouted 100% healthy leaves. Golden Celebration was slow in sprouting leaves: black-spotted leaves. The problem with bagged manure: chemical quick lime (calcium hydroxide) added to kill weed's seeds, plus to deodorize. Result: high pH, plus that chemical calcium zaps out nitrogen (less leaves), and zap out potassium (needed to prevent diseases).

Natural cow manure is different: it stinks mighty .. Mom used to top-dress her garden with cow-manure from the farm across the street. One year I got MIGHTY STINKY bagged cow manure: bumper crop of tomato thanks to its acidic pH, except I have to pull weeds for the next decade .. that stinky manure had tons of weed seeds.

Putting one's home-made compost AT THE BOTTOM OF PLANTING hole BELOW 1.5 feet is safe, by the time roots reach down, it will be composted. But I killed or stunted a few roses by putting 9-month old leaves AT ROOT ZONE. Leaves take 2 years to decompose completely in my zone 5a, same with compost from kitchen scraps. Anything acidic at root-zone will harm roots, at below pH 5 (rain-water), more aluminum is released, and that really hurts roots.

Live and learn I guess! Thanks so much for always being so willing to share your experiences. Both the good and the bad!

The bag with humus is still sitting in my garage. Been afraid to use it! Maybe I can spread it in the yard?

Straw wrote:

1. How often do you water your cuttings? Or how much rain do you get when you start your cuttings? Normal watering, after 3 days in winters and daily in summers. Misting three to four times during hot hours.
2. Do you root roses during monsoon season? Or do you root cuttings mainly during drier & cooler winter? What's the temp. during winter-rooting from cuttings? I mostly plant my cuttings in winters though I tried in monsoon and spring also. Results during winters were much better than monsoon. Many of the cutting rotted during monsoon.
3. Are your cuttings in full-sun in the winter? If they are in partial shade, how many hours of sun per day give best growth for your cuttings? In part shade where they get 3-4 hours sun. Cuttings that got very little sun grew the best in my area. Perhaps in zone 9b, even the winters carry sunlight strong enough for the cuttings. But in zone 4 to 6, I think cuttings would grow better when placed in full sun during winters.

I placed my order for this year yesterdays. Due to my commitments, I got late this year too. The nursery from which I order my roses does not have any website so one has to book an order on phone... My order included 1. The Poets Wife 2. The Generous Gardener 3. Olivia Rose Austin 4. Princess Anne 5. England Rose 6. Young Lycidas 7. Tranquility 8. Maid Marion 9. Lady Salisbury 10. Heathcliff 11. Abraham Derby 12. The Lark Ascending 13. Heritage 14. Lady Emma Hamilton & Princess Alexandra of Kent (already have the ones grafted on multiflora which are not doing that well, want to get ones grafted on centifolia), 15. Stephen's Big Purple & Mr Lincoln , 16. Angel Face 16. Fragrant Plum (lost these roses last to last year, want to grow these fragrant beauties again)

If I had a choice, I would have purchase all OGRs but very few are available here.

best regards

Thank you, Khalid, for your prompt reply. Your 16-roses purchase is very nice !! ORG (old-garden roses) are mostly grown own-roots .. Comte de Chambord, Queen of Denmark (alba & centifolia), and Duchess de Rohan are the 3 best-scented roses .. but they do best in cool & wet & shady areas. Those 3 easily beat Austin roses in "perfume" scent.

For dry & hot areas, Rugosas such as "Wild Eric", Roseraie de L'hay are drought-tolerant & fragrant. Hybrid musk like Buff Beauty, Cornelia, Felicia, and Penelope can take hot & dry better than some OGR's.

I definitely will order more hybrid musk & polyantha for their "wafting" scent .. those perfume the entire garden. My 2 most treasured rootings are Felicia and Perle d'Or .. those kept dying in heavy rain. This spring I will put a Pop-bottle over them to block out the rain, or root them in a zippered pouch.

One person testified that Felicia (hybrid musk) smell better than Abraham Darby. One tiny bloom of Perle d'Or perfumed the entire corner of my garden, it makes other scents mediocre. Musk scent is pure heaven .. I can get sick "perfume" scent as in Firefighter, but musk scent is uplifting and exhilarating ... plus the scent comes to me, rather my having to sniff the bloom.

Straw, I think that you just gave me a great idea for my northern wall, Perle d'Or! Even though it doesn't have the big blooms, I love that it's so tough in our area, wafts, and can take shade. Plus can get huge so that it can replace my unruly New Dawn's. But I wonder if it will just fade out to dingy white in our heat?

Khalid, when I first started shopping for roses, The Generous Gardener was one of the first ones that really captivated me but they were sold out. I look forward to hearing how it does in your heat! Of your new list, I have Fragrant Plum who has taken off this winter but hasn't seen our heat yet.

Lavender: Bluegirl in Texas adores her Perle d'Or .. the leaves are so clean & pretty, even if the blooms fade in sun, the healthy leaves will make up for that. If I have to rank the enjoyment and amount of perfume, Perle d'Or BEAT all my 100+ varieties of fragrant roses.

When my Perle gave its 1st bloom, it's like being in heaven. I didn't even have to bend down and sniff it, the entire area smelled like heaven. The blooms are simple so it pumps out blooms constantly, no pause in between. The bush-beauty & healthy foliage will make up for faded-blooms. Since you use horse manure, the apricot-color will intensify in Perle d'Or. It's a Texas Earth-Kind & drought-tolerant & heat-tolerant rose.

OK, I'm sold! But I wonder what makes it so fragrant in your garden versus the lesser ratings that it gets on HMF? I think that's what scared me off of it before but this is a place for toughness and clay tolerance so the wafting will be the icing on top of the cake, thank you!

I thought that if I went with apricot, I would use Abraham Darby, but I'm afraid that all the water will kill my very tall drought loving hedges. Do all Austins love water or just some of them?

Lavender: Abraham Darby is a water-hog, and gave a decent flush during cool & spring flood, zero flush in between, and one or 2 blooms in late fall at nearby rose park. Most Austin need tons of rain to bloom, except for Carding Mill, Wild Eric, and the ones which Austin catalog said "ideal for warm weather USA".

Carding Mill has less thorns than Abraham Darby. Carding Mill has better apricot/pink color, Abraham Darby fades to white at the rose park. But Carding Mill has mediocre myrrh scent, nothing to rave about. Abraham Darby smells like rotten melon, that will surely attract cucumber beetles.

I planted Perle in a black-peat-humus potting soil (Lowe's Sta-green), then I mixed in sand & perlite for fast drainage. Humus holds on to nutrients well, so that intensified the scent. Plus I put pea-gravel to neutralize acidic rain, that gave it more minerals. It was a humid & rainy summer, so the scent was strong.

Scott's Hyponex brand potting soil contains black-peat-humus (naturally rich in nitrogen). Black peat humus is decayed organic matter harvested from Michigan, Minnesota, and Florida wetlands. It's superior to brown peat-moss. Brown peat-moss has zero nutrients, versus black-peat humus is rich in nitrogen.

My best blooms & best scent were with black-peat humus soil, rather than my native dolomitic clay high in magnesium.

Perle will have to deal with clay next to the building so I'm happy to learn how you made it work for you, thanks Straw!

Khalid, have you ever grown any of the Korde Sunbelt series in your area?

Straw wrote: Abraham Darby is a water-hog, and gave a decent flush during cool & spring flood, zero flush in between, and one or 2 blooms in late fall at nearby rose park.

The black cloth that you see tied up with the barbed wire is perhaps there to ward off the evil spirits............a local belief

And I wish I could get Perle d'Or and other musk scented roses...none available here

best regards

I love that Perle dor. How big does she grow?I somehow that it was a smaller plant. I'm also being gifted a cast-off Leander and they might look good together.

Khalid, that is an amazingly beautiful picture. Interesting about the black cloth.

I thought it was little too but read reports about it getting quite large in my climate.

Speaking of big, most of mine are way bigger than they are supposed to be! Should I leave them crowded and overlapping or do I have to take some out? Anybody here just left them jammed together?

Lavenderlace: I leave mine jammed together in front of windows to prevent thieves from breaking-in. God definitely made roses for that reason !! I have strong wind in Chicagoland, so it doesn't matter.

In my growing roses in pots & plenty of space .. they still become diseased if NOT fed well, or poor drainage. The health of the roots determine the health of the leaves.

Just read on the soil-website that best root-growth is with 50% water and 50% air. Air pockets below via chunky composted-organic-matter or bark-chips really help with root-growth. Still remember that potted rose from HomeDepot: more flowers than leaves, so impressive. When I pulled the root out, it's mostly pine-bark-chips, some peatmoss, and blue-fertilizer granules.

Khalid: That Abraham Darby, grafted-on-Centifolia, has the most blooms ever, and the color is nice !! The problems with Dr. Huey-rootstock, which stingy Abraham Darby at zone 5a rose-park is grafted on:

1. Dr. Huey rootstock is a once-blooming, 15 petals dark-red bloom. Such low-petal rose can't pick up enough potassium for blooming nor disease-prevention.
2. Dr. Huey-rootstock is a chunky & woody tap-root with less hairy-feeder-roots. Chunky tap-root can't get much water as extensive-feeder-root-system of Centifolia or Fortuniana rootstock. It's NOT a good idea to graft a water-hog on an inefficient chunky root.

3) Dr. Huey chunky root is good for dense clay, but it lacks the tiny-feeder-roots to get potassium (for blooms & disease-prevention), nor water (for Austin roses), nor phosphorus & trace elements (for deeper color).

My Paul Neyron as own-root gave deep pink & large & many petals bloom, but Paul Neyron grafted on Dr.Huey was a joke: gave me single-petal light-pink blooms !! Yes, it's Paul Neyron with thornless stems & leaves that matched my own-root.

CONCLUSION: If it's a water-hog, then go with own-root for more "hairy-feeder-roots". French Meilland, or Romantica roses (Liv Tyler, Frederic Mistral) are also big water-hogs and do much better as own-roots.

Straw, do your jammed in ones grow/look the same as your others?

Lavender: It depends on the climate and type of rose. I used to post in Antique Rose forum: Some California folks insisted on NOT PRUNING roses so the leaves can shade the roots in their dry & hot climate.

But for my less sun & wet climate, pruning enables more sunlight to reach into the lowest part for basal breaks. Also depend on the type of rose, if a rose has dull & matte leaves & prone to mildew, then more space is needed for air-circulation.

If a rose has shiny & glossy foliage that's sensitive to hot sun, then overcrowding actually "shade" them. I rarely see mildew on shiny & glossy foliage unless the pH drops by my using sulfates, vinegar or acidic brewer's yeast. But I saw plenty of mildew on matte & dull leaves like Crimson Glory, Munstead Wood ... those need plenty of air-flow, and can't be jammed together.

I am also tempted to order Perle d'or!

CONCLUSION: If it's a water-hog, then go with own-root for more "hairy-feeder-roots". French Meilland, or Romantica roses (Liv Tyler, Frederic Mistral) are also big water-hogs and do much better as own-roots.

Thanks Straw. This is very relevant.

Same is the case with LEH. This bud is in this state since past 5 days, not opening up. Will be pruned today.

Foliage is rust red.... love it.

best regards

Khalid: Your LEH is such a pretty rose & nice red-leaves !! My Firefighter (Hacienda) also has reddish leaves in spring time.

Your Shocking Blue has the best foliage ever .. it's a Kordes rose, I love Kordes' foliage: always clean & shiny & perfect.

Early spring I pruned climber CPM down to knee-height for workers to fix my house' aluminum-siding. Best spring flush ever. I keep telling myself "sap flows easier horizontally, rather than vertically" when I prune roses short.

Your reddish pots are very nice-looking .. I wish they sell such pretty terracotta pots here.

Your leaves look so good Khalid! I'm realizing that in my mild climate. a lot of roses will stay green all winter. I thought that would be a trade-off to have beautiful roses in the summer so I'm thrilled!

However, not all of them. Have there ever been any threads with people mentioning their evergreen roses versus those which must have some winter cold to perform their best?

Mine have definitely had shocks of cold and different varieties have performed better than others. Assuming that not going dormant is better? I hope they don't show their displeasure by not blooming this year!

Lavederlace wrote:"However, not all of them. Have there ever been any threads with people mentioning their evergreen roses versus those which must have some winter cold to perform their best?"

This is a very interesting question but I am not sure if we will get many replies. At least I have no idea because I do prune my roses, even in zone 9. From weather point of view, most roses don't go dormant in zone 9 however, pruning does make the roses grow vigorously in spring and that is the reason I prune them. I wonder if I don't prune my roses at all during winters (Dec to Feb in Islamabad), they would come up with an impressive flash in spring? Never tried it so can't say with surety but I guess the spring flush wouldn't be as good as it is after the roses are pruned in winters. I am mainly talking of DA, HT and floribunda roses here.

Any other input....

Whatever it is, it is worth growing. A wonderful rose.

Received my this year consignment of roses from the nursery. I mostly purchase my roses from this nursery only as it supplies healthy roses grafted on centifolia rootstock. There roses are transported the traditional way, ie somesoil on the roots and rootball wrapped in hay.

But this year they sent me bare root roses. Centifolia has long roots and they had cut the roots, I don't know for what reason.

Following roses were received

1. Olivia Rose Austin
2. The Poets Wife
3. Young Lycidas
4. Princess Anne
5. Maid Marion
6. Queen Anne
7. The Lark Ascending
8. Heritage
9. Tranquility
10. Lady Salisbury
11. Abraham Darby
12. Royal Jubilee
13. Lady Emma Hamilton (on centifolia rootstock, already have one on multiflora)
14. Princess Alexandra of Kent (on centifolia rootstock, already have one on multiflora)
15. Stephen's Big Purple
16. Reconciliation
17. Alec's Red
18. Angel Face
19. Fragrant Plum
20. Mr Lincoln
21. Caprice de Meilland
22. Pink Perfume

I never ordered Alec's Red, Pink Perfume (already have them) and Reconciliation but the nursery owner always sends a few roses of his choice, without asking me. Usually they are a gift as I am buying roses from him since many years.

This years the roses are not that strong and roots have been cut. I hope they grow well. I think many of them will grow but will take more time. I shouldn't be expecting much during this spring..... may be by September or October they will come up with better blooms. Lets see. I will keep posting the pics.

best regards

Khalid: Thank you the many bush-shots pics, and your 22 new roses is a great selection !!

Condesa de Sastago has that bright color that I like. Gruss grows so vigorous at your friend's garden, despite the chalky light-color soil. I dug up Gruss recently to fix drainage, and the root is big & deep & spreading, very drought-tolerant.

The striped red-rose might be Julio Iglesias, a Meilland rose, see if the below leaves match with your unknown rose:

http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=21.211229

http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=2.41099&tab=1

Those Centifolia roots look good, lots of tiny feeder-roots, much better than Dr. Huey rootstock !!

Beautiful roses, Khalid. I wish I had more experience to help you. Love the stripey rose!

LL, some OGRs NEED cold to thrive. I don't assume that having leaves that go dormant or not is necessarily better, unless they are going dormant due to avoidable stress ie. drought etc. It's a plants mechanism for dealing with stress, but it can also be due to its genetics. I have some roses keeping most of their leaves, but those on the bottom which are most affected by cold. This is most noticeable in Viking Queen probably due to her cold-hardiness. Losing leaves in winter can also be seen as a positive as fewer bad insects, etc. can burrow in the stipules. In some hot climates people actually defoliate their plants to induce a short dormancy and spray horticultural oil on the canes. I may do that this Spring. However, from a visual it's nice to have the leaves. Where I live, I just expect everything to shut down for Winter and I don't really visit my yard much until Feb or so. :(

VV, that's a very good point about the insects. Hmmm....maybe I should defoliate.... But it's so nice to see something green. I guess if I have a pitiful summer, I will have learned my lesson!

CoriAnn has researched this extensively and written about her experiences in these posts: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/4377551/thrips-in-ca-compiling-info-and-learning-from-all-of-you?n=51

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/4377551/thrips-in-ca-compiling-info-and-learning-from-all-of-you?n=51

I'm not sure what's recommended for your area. This is just something to research perhaps. It's done either in winter or just before Spring.

Straw wrote: The striped red-rose might be Julio Iglesias, a Meilland rose, see if the below leaves match with your unknown rose:

Straw: There is no doubt that the blooms resemble a lot. However, the rose that I have is a miniature or a patio rose. It is with me since last 2 years and is hardly 18 inches tall. Julio Iglesias grows quite big, in comparison. It's now around 2 years and I am still unable to identify this roses despite seriously considering over 50 similar looking roses.

Any other guess?

best regards....

wonderful information and great site i love all the roses here

Thanks Bahram Khan and welcome to the community of organic rose growers.

best regards

With all my roses pruned, there is no activity nowadays. However, when I complained to my rose nursery that the roses this year were not healthy, he sent me another pack, most roses of his own choice, at 80% discount.

I am dealing with this rose nursery since long and many a times he sents a few roses free of cost

1. Penelope (Hybrid Musk, Pemberton 1924)

2. Brandy, (HT, Herbert Swim 1981)

3. Memorial Day (HT, Tom Carruth 2001)

4. Elizabeth of Glamis (Floribunda, McGredy 1958)

5. Black Caviar (Astrid Grafin Von Hardenberg, Shrub, Tantau 2001)

6. Daftrausch (Senteur Royale, HT, Tantau 1986)

7. Andre le Notre (Betty White, Meilland 2000)

8. Niclole Carol Miller (Grandiflora, Meilland, 2005)

9. Pink Peac, (HT, Meilland 1958)

10. JFK, (HT, Eugene Boerner, 1965)

11. Souvenir de Baden-Baden (Pink Enchantment, HT, Kordes 2000)

12. Princess Alexandra of Kent

13. An un-tagged rose

I already have two bushes of Princess Alexandra but he sends me a third at his own. No problem. I am not paying .

I am fascinated to have Penelope, Memorial Day, Black Caviar and Andre le Notre. Have heard good things about these roses.

I spent whole friday afternoon planting these roses...

On Saturday morning me and my sons went up Margalla Hills for hiking. Margalla Hills National Park starts less than a km from my house. Here is one of the biggest trees that I saw in many years.... growing on the foot hills of Margalla.

And here are few photos of one of my favourite palms, growing in the wild in Margalla National Park. Phoenix rupicola is indeed makes a majestic bush when fully grown.

Since there are no rose pics to show.... I thought we can talk about Banyan tree and Rupicola Palms I guess

All photos shown above have been taken by me during my hikes in Margalla mountains.

best regards

What a wonderful list of roses. You will love Memorial Day as it's fragrant even in the heat. Pink Enchantment has been getting good reviews from those in hotter climes, as well. However, I like seeing the pics of your country best of all. Thank you.

Khalid, what a wonderful list of roses and fabulous pictures!

I can't wait to compare notes on Memorial Day in our heat. She's so big and pretty in the vase and sounds like VV likes her too! I like that you can see her from a distance and she really adds to the landscape.

Are the rocks in the picture of the previous jungle fire added for the road or is it actually that rocky in places? How amazing to see palms growing in rocks! I can't quite tell if that's your cute dog in the center or something else?

Khalid also brings up a good point about observing what is working in nature. I've had roses my entire life that were planted by previous land owners that barely got a glance from me, let alone water and pruning, LOL!

Now I can't imagine not vigorously deadheading but still want to respect nature so we'll see how it goes with the new ones. I did buy some antique roses also just in case!

vaporvac: Thanks for report on Memorial Day and Souvenir de Baden-Baden. I hope they do well in my climate.

lavenderlace: Yes, that cute thing is Maxus. The puppy has grown a bit and loves to accompany me during hikes. He loves long walks. And yes, it is that rocky up in the mountains and these palms grow in those rocks. Amazing. And there are so many types of ferns that grown within those rocks.

Everytime I go up, I try to study how soil forms within the rocks up in the mountains. Actually, most of it is not soil but decomposed vegetation that has accumulated in the rocks over the years. It is so soft and fluffy in texture. I have taken a few pics but pics just do not reflect what I see.

best regards

Bump this up to note that the Young Lycidas I bought as grafted on Dr.Huey from Regan nursery was VERY TINY and wimpy. It didn't survive my zone 5 winter in my dense and wet clay. Another friend in far west & dry clay zone 5 also had the same disappointing experience with Young Lycidas.

Thank you for bumping this thread @strawchicago z5 !

Although none of my roses are own root, I still benefited from reading this: there is so much fantastic information about growing roses in pots in this thread!

Too bad @Khalid Waleed (zone 9b Isb) doesn't seem to post here anymore, maybe he's posting somewhere else these days, but I don't do FB so I guess I miss out on a lot.

I love his picture with all the petals as a colorful mulch in the pot!

Seaside: You'll benefit from joining Khalid's facebook group "Fragrant Gardens" since the 2.1K folks there are from warm climate plus they don't waste time with bickering opinions, they post lots of bush-shots and give short and very useful tips.

Khalid no longer garden in 100+ pots. He bought a large piece of land up the mountain in Pakistan and have the BEST rose garden I have ever seen in pics. I visited 3 rose gardens here: Chicago Botanical Garden with 5,000 roses. Cantigny rose park with 1,200 rose. Elizabeth rose park in CT with 10,000 roses. None of these roses can measure up to Khalid's large rose garden up the mountain. He root his own roses and they are loaded with blooms as tiny own roots. Below are the own-root rootings made by Khalid:

Below are his own-roots that he root himself, less than 2 year old:

Below is his own root Augusta Luise that he rooted himself in zone 9b, Pakistan:

I learn lots from him in rooting roses. Khalid, or HQ Gilani is the founder of Facebook group Fragrant Gardens with 2.1 K members.

Thanks Straw! His pictures are amazing here and on HMF, and I would love to learn more about rooting rose cuttings, but I made a decision loooong ago not to join Facebook, and I will stick with that.

Good for him that he was able to get land in the mountains and plant his roses in the ground! I am sure it must be a wonderful garden, judging by the glimpses you just reposted here!