Prefinished engineered hardwood: need to match existing
smm5525
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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smm5525
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
prefinished hardwood vs. engineered hw vs. unfinished
Comments (18)I have real oak hardwood in my kitchen, and three years ago I installed engineered, handscraped hardwood by Appalachian Hardwoods in my bedroom. The engineered hardwood is superb. It didn't even scratch when we had heavy, sold bedroom furniture installed. These pieces require four people to move, and at one point it was dropped on the floor: no scratches, no dents. We now have felt pads on all the furniture for more protection, but the engineered wood has held up well. It's also easy to clean. It was more expensive than some hardwoods: $8.00 per square foot! Since our home was built to look like an old Louisiana antebellum home, I wanted floors that looked old and had character. The handscraped engineered floors fit the bill, especially when compared to the price of real, reclaimed wood from old homes or barns! Now I'm replacing all the flooring in my house with the same engineered wood. I'm even removing the oak plank in the kitchen. It has not held up over the years. The finish is gone in some spots, probably from wear and the use of things like vinegar, grease, etc. Some things really seem to eat away at the finished oak regardless of how quickly you remove a spill. It also has some dings from me dropping heavy cast-iron cookware. So, I can only speak from my experience, but so far the engineered hardwood seems to be the better choice for my home. Plus, it was faster to install. If I had done raw hardwood, the contractor said he would lay the wood in the house for a week to let it "cure" before finishing it. I live in a high-humidity area (NC). I'm impatient and didn't want to wait....See MoreHow to match stair treads to prefinished engineered walnut floors
Comments (18)The flooring store we purchased the products from recommended this: Apply sealer Sand (using 120 grit, no more than 150 grit sand paper) Apply 1st coat Duraseal Matte Oil based finish (available at San Jose location) Roll this on using a smooth roller Sand (again 120 or max 150 grit) Apply 2nd coat Duraseal Matte Oil based finish (roll on using smooth roller) Sand (again 120 or max 150 grit) (Optional) - 3rd coat of Duraseal & sanding Apply 1st Spray coat of Minwax Satin Lightly sand (again 120 or max 150 grit) Apply very light 2nd Spray coat of Minwax Satin ... however I don't know where to start if this doesn't turn out right, and I am not sure if the Minwax is a durable enough. Also, we applied the Minwax satin to the wood directly and it came out too dark. So.... I was looking for alternative products to try on my other scraps....See MoreMatching Pre-finished Hardwoods
Comments (8)There are 4 requirements for a 'match': 1. Species and - If you have 'oak' you need to know if it is Red, White, European, English, etc. 2. Saw Cut - rift, quarter, live, etc. This one is SUPER important 3. Grade - If you already have Select on the floor but try to work with #2 Common you are going to be SUPER upset! It won't look anything like the floor you already have. 4. Width - If you are going to 'miss' it on anything, this is the one where you can 'loosen up' your requirements. I'm going to make a prediction that your 'found' hardwood is a different grade. The grade is going to make it look like you did NOT do a very good match...even though everything else was a great match the mismatched GRADE is going to look awful. If you plan on refinishing in 5 years, you might as do it all at once. The most expensive part is getting the refinisher on site. If you put both jobs together your refinisher will give you a 'bundled' discount. And if you do it all at once, do NOT purchase factory finished. It takes EXTRA EFFORT to remove factory finishes. And extra effort means EXTRA money. You will loose the cost benefit....See MoreMatching (up to 90%) of existing hardwood floor possible?
Comments (2)I recently renovated my 1969 split level house with original red oak floors. On the main floor, I completely refinished and wove in new red oak were there was previously tile and it is all one color now. But, at the landing of the top level, I did not redo the wood floors, picture attached. As you can see they are noticeably different, which I think makes it work. Trying to match and missing is not good. Make it look intentional. I'm not familiar with prefinished hardwoods. Can they be refinished at some point? If so, you'll want to be sure that if you ever do refinish all the floors, they can eventually wind up the same color....See Moresmm5525
7 years agoCancork Floor Inc.
7 years agosmm5525
7 years ago
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