UV Oiled Walnut Floor

Your walnut floor shown seems similar to a 5" UV Oiled Walnut floor we carry. We use Woca Master Oil to finish our match vents, stair noses etc. Please check this link[Woca Master Oil[(https://www.houzz.com/products/woca-master-floor-oil-prvw-vr~8197226?lid=1665398)

Would you then cover the floor with polyurethane after the oil?

roadrunnerrita

There is no need to apply any polyurethane after oil. Apply one coat, after 10 minutes, wipe out the excessive oil with Woca polishing cloth. You may use it after a day. It takes 7 days to fully cure.

Greg - would you oil the wood and then apply a polyurethane coat? What kind of polyurethane coat would you use?

thanks!

no, i would use urethane. most likely a water bourne. Bona makes good products. do tests, if a straight water sealer is too light, go with Amberseal. and then follow up witha couple of coats of finish

Matching takes skill with appropriate products. Select some products from recommendations and then test them on scrap material. Test and practice until you get the results you're after. That is how custom finishers do it.

The flooring store we purchased the products from recommended this:

• Apply sealer

• Sand (using 120 grit, no more than 150 grit sand paper)

• Apply 1st coat Duraseal Matte Oil based finish (available at San Jose location)

  • Roll this on using a smooth roller

• Sand (again 120 or max 150 grit)

• Apply 2nd coat Duraseal Matte Oil based finish (roll on using smooth roller)

• Sand (again 120 or max 150 grit)

• (Optional) - 3rd coat of Duraseal & sanding

• Apply 1st Spray coat of Minwax Satin

• Lightly sand (again 120 or max 150 grit)

• Apply very light 2nd Spray coat of Minwax Satin

... however I don't know where to start if this doesn't turn out right, and I am not sure if the Minwax is a durable enough. Also, we applied the Minwax satin to the wood directly and it came out too dark. So.... I was looking for alternative products to try on my other scraps.

I agree with Gregmills...you want to test with a waterborne finishing product, such as those made by Bona. However, the Bona products only come in Gallon size containers and they are not inexpensive. Maybe call Bona and see if you can get a small quantity for testing? Who knows? ...they might even say yes.

thanks guys!

yeah sorry i didnt even consider the size. it could get expensive if its not to your liking.

Bona is a good brand. but its not the only brand. You could always use Bona as the final coats, but maybe a sealer from a different company may be okay too. Generally speaking most manufactures are not going to tell you that its okay to apply their product over another and vice versa, but in my experience its usually okay, but i always perform tests to make sure it will work out before i take a plunge.

Duraseal makes a waterbased finish, that i believe they sell at big box stores.

Back to the Oil based polys. thats definitely going to give a darker richer tone than what you're after. Stick with water bourne products.

Now it makes me wonder what finish you have on your wood floor. UV oil or oil based poly?

We have pre-finished engineered floors. My GC made a sample of the flooring company's recommendation and it wasn't anything close to the finish of the engineered material. He doesn't seem to have a sub that can or will figure this out for us to our satisfaction. We tried a matte water based polyurethane (just a sample can we got from home depot) and that was the right finish, but not quite the right tone-- the engineered wood was a little warmer/ more amber than the tread. We didn't use a sealer when we tried the matte water based poly.

I think we will try a sealer with the Bona HD product next. If that doesn't work, then potentially add back the duraseal matte oil into the mix. Does this make sense?

Who normally figures this kind of stuff out on a large project?

If the finish you are going for is a more amber tone you may try a amber shellac as a sealer.

Dont use shellac on the floors! If you ever want to have any work to the floors like a buff n coat without having to sand down to the original wood, Shellac is not the answer here.

Normally on a large project, anything that deals with hardwood floors or hardwood treads would generally be the hardwood floor professional, now adays a lot of carpenters will install prefinished flooring.

Some Painters may dabble in stains and finishes.

If you need a richer tone go with an Amberseal from Bona. It sounds like you are already going to use their products. Amberseal isnt super pricey but it does only come in gallon size. Bona sealers aside from Amberseal wont give you the richer tone you describe.

I was suggesting amber shellac as the sealer coat to get their color closer to what they want..They will be adding a stain and topcoat over it so what is the difference.I was not suggesting shellac as a floor finish.

As gregmills said, it's usually the hardwood floor professional who deals with matching issues on a large finishing project.