Help! Contractor messed up staining the stairs treads
yeh_yeh
8 years ago
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geoffrey_b
8 years agoRelated Discussions
You all make it look so easy-i'm messing up this paint job. Help!
Comments (21)Zinsser makes a great primer. The others are right though, it won't go on evenly like your final coat. You're doing fine. :) I painted a wood desk last summer and when I finished with the primer, I thought the same thing, "oh, what a mess I've made." But then I put on the first finish coat (a black high gloss paint), all of my doubts went away. You may need to put on two coats of your regular paint though since you're covering the wood and primer. I would put one coat on and then see if you even need to fill those corners. A little spackle will work - no mixing needed. When you first apply it it will be pink and then it dries to white. Then you can lightly sand it and paint on your final coat. Also, as others mentioned..use a really good regular paint brush. It will have finer bristles and give you a nice, smooth application. The inexpensive brushes have courser bristles. Believe me, the brush does make a difference. Bottom line is... you're doing great! :)...See MoreCross post - help staining stairs
Comments (0)Here is the dilemma. I have (radiata) pine trim and doors stained Honey Maple. Brazilian Cherry DR floor. Oak treads on stairs open to DR and foyer. Golden oak DR furniture (and kitchen cabinets). But the stringer and risers are Southern yellow pine. I did finish the exposed DR side of the stringer, and the bottom riser, before the DR floor was installed - they're very light (don't remember if I even tried to stain them or just poly'd). Boiled linseed oil and beeswax on the treads - that did not turn out to hold up well to traffic so I'll have to try to strip it off and poly or Waterlox them some time when I can keep people off for a week (like right b4 vacation at Tgiving?). I'm also concerned that going darker on treads will make the gouges the builder put in look worse - or will they blend better? They got darker when I waxed them, I sanded them as much as I dared. So, we're finally installing a railing and newel posts - red oak. How should I (re)finish the risers and treads, and should I go with contrasting stain (reddish brown cherry to match floor?) on the rail and newels? Should the rosettes match the treads or the rail (assuming they end up different colors)? Is it OK to leave the risers/stringers lighter to match the honey pine baseboard, and go darker with the oak pieces? My real big worry is that I will stain the railing and newels dark to match the BC floor, and then never be able to get the treads to match, and end up with 3 wood tones on the stairs. I think 2-tone may look OK, but not 3. I'm not sure I could get the pine risers to stain as dark (without looking blotchy and muddy) as the floor. So, do I take the easy way out and just leave the pine natural (or Honey Maple stain) and the oak natural (Natural stain on red oak)? Pictures are on the original thread on Decorating forum Thanks! Here is a link that might be useful: Thread with pictures...See MoreI would like help with choosing stair tread finish
Comments (5)Sorry but this is too obvious to me. I see plenty of green in the vinyl (brown with green and gray tones) while I see plenty of orange/red. Some people have a hard time seeing undertones. It takes a trained eye that does not have any colour-blindness concerns (up to 30% of men have some form of colour blindness...which could explain some things). The treads are too close to a 'bad match' to make this work. I'm sorry but you would be better off gluing down vinyl on the treads and then figuring out a nosing. BTW: have you measured everything to ensure your stairs will maintain 'code'? Once a stair changes finish (like carpet to hardwood, vinyl, laminate, etc) the stairs must be reassessed to ensure code compliance. A finishing carpenter is the person needed to make sure stairs remain to code. The top of the stairs and the bottom of the stairs are where you would see issues when changing finishes....See MoreMaterial for intermediate landings on oak stair tread staircase?
Comments (8)@G & S services Well, I found a stair place, and they have complete landings. They look just like the treads, same bullnose front, same build of strips glued together, but they are 4’ x 4’ or (5’ x 5’). This place does installations as well as sales (but scheduling weeks out). He offered to tell me what I should be charged for labor. In the process, I showed him the crappy subfloor and I explained that the contractor says the labor will be expensive (especially versus the laminate labor) because removing the existing treads snd landings is labor intensive (due in part to nails versus screws and irregular nailing pattern). The sales guy asked why they are doing all that removal, and he explained how they hanfle my situation: ———- [sorry pictures are split up. 3rd is at bottom) Cut off part of the 2x12 tread to remove the overhanging part. Do the cutting IN PLACE. The 2 x 12 is now flush with riser — no overhang.. Install the new tread on top of the old. It will overhang. install the new riser to cover the front edge of the old tread where you cut it off. NOTE: It does mean that the first step is taller by 1-1/16” and the top step to the landing is shorter. All the intermediate steps will have the same height as before. ————— Any thoughts? My contractor thinks it will cause a trip hazard (which is what I said of the laminate stairnose lip at the 2nd floor.) But we are both afraid of what we’ll find under the treads and landings....See Moreyeh_yeh
8 years agobry911
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoyeh_yeh
8 years agoyeh_yeh
8 years ago
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