I just got one. Its been installed for about 2 months now. It came from venting direct arrived in perfect shape( boxed real well). Mine is 42 inches CH 97. I installed it myself. Its heavy I did the job solo I had to remove all components to hang it. It replaced the common white 36 in hood with two bulb under a plastic lens and a mesh filter about 220 cfm . Its great it makes less noise the the old one but still it not silent by any means. My biggest problem is it makes a strange whistling in second gear. After the motors warm up it goes away (turning it on it goes to second speed) . First gear is silent 3rd and 4th make noise. You move air with a a indoor fan you got noise external fan cost about 1200$ alone then buy a hood. The control switches are strange in their function nothing wrong I just don't get the logic seem like something is lost in translation. As far hard to clean is BS its simple . I worried about the light being dim they are very bright blinding bright. I install it different than by directions I used a 8 inch duct all the way (which is larger than instructed). My roof vent had small output holes so I put a T in the duct and installed a second exhaust on the house's wall. The hood does not come with a back draft damper which I order 2 different ones for my install from the same company. The hood being 25 inches deep is a head banger for me I only nailed it about 3 times you remember it pretty quick. I ordered it with the thought if I didnt like the blowers noise I install a external blower. Which I could still do. This means I pretty happy with the hood itself. I think the most amazing thing about it at as you fire up a burner the hood heats up (place you hand on the hood) switch the fans on the metal temp goes down in in 20 seconds.

So if we were to do a 1.5 story with the master on the main level, where would you put that, behind the garage then? My thought process would be to first determine priority of room placement in the most ideal location for the use of the room and then if conflicts between room placement develop then rank by how much time is spent and how time is used for each room as well as the importance of that use compared to the importance of the uses for the other rooms. If watching the sunrise from your bed pays off with more enjoyment than having the sunrise and morning sun striking your kitchen, then plan accordingly. For instance, do you plan on using your master suite as a parental get-away from the kids, using it during the day or will your non-sleeping uses be restricted to evenings only, meaning that any views from the rooms would be lost to the darkness of the night? If the views are not important, I'd bury the master suite near the garage in the above sketch. If however, views and day time use are important, then I'd move the master to the east/south/west walls, perhaps right off the entry or in the back off of the kitchen. I'm not necessarily saying to put the master off the entry or off the kitchen, though you could, I'm just using these as examples that reference the above sketch. The way I'm designing my own home is to use a very self-reflective process which tries to understand how I actually live my life rather than trying to contort my lifestyle into architectural trends which presuppose how people SHOULD live their lives. So, to continue on the questioning, why exactly do you appreciate a main-floor master? Is it so that you can avoid stairs? Is it so that you can hear the comings and goings of the kids at night as they try to leave the house, is it because you don't want the kids too near your bedroom, is it because you don't want noise transmission from the master to be easily heard by the kids, and so on? Once you can articulate to yourself why you want something then you can find the best solution for your plan, rather than adopting a cookie-cutter approach. For instance, what I found amusing in some plans was a main floor master with a child's bedroom directly over it on the 2nd. Now, to me, if the goal was to reduce noise transmission from either the child's room to the parent's room or vice versa, the separation by floor, while having intuitive appeal, would fail to achieve the mission. The example I used in an earlier comment was to have a master suite separated by a stairway corridor AND a children's hallway which together create a 7'-8' dead zone, possibly with some walls other than the master and child's bedroom walls also added in between. There are no common walls shared, there is a huge dead zone in between and the goal of reducing noise transmission is, I believe, better served than a downstairs master with an upstairs child's bedroom directly over top, sharing common ceiling/floor as well as sound transmission paths down the walls. Of course, if sound transmission has nothing to do with the appeal of a downstairs master suite, then what I've sketched out is a solution to a problem which doesn't exist, or doesn't matter. I was thinking the master/office space on one side and then the kitchen, dining, great room on the other. That makes sense to me. Would you move the great room from the center of the house below to the front where the dining study is and move the study to where the great room is? Lots of configurations can make sense, but they must make sense in relation to how you envision yourself using the space and the particulars of your lifestyle and preferences. I'd say grab some graph paper, or even blank paper, and just block out the rooms and see how they interplay with each other, note how you foresee traffic patterns within and throughout the space, imagine daily routines taking place within the space. Once you have an idea of how you live, or how you want to live in the new space, then get the graph paper and try to get a better handle on size and furniture placement, and traffic patterns and by the end of this process you should have a very good understanding of how you want the space to be configured. I did the same for my house and this has resulted in me doing away with a formal living room from the now traditional LR/FR combo pack and reallocating the space elsewhere in the home, such as combining the entry with the LR space in order to create a larger sense of space/volume, has led me to create a larger kitchen than would be warranted in relation to the size of the informal living room, has led me to other design changes that likely violate what trained architects use as benchmarks for how homes should be designed. Thank you for the garage tip also - I thought 24x24 was rather large? We will be getting an oversize door for sure. I'd say measure your cars, block out a 24 x 24 space on your lawn, use cardboard boxes or something else to fill the space of your cars, then throw in the other junk you're likely to store alongside the walls of the garage, and see how much space you actually need. Try to get out of your car and see if the door bangs the wall or the other car. A 24 x 24 garage is actually pretty good considering that many designed give a 20 x 23 or something similarly ridiculous.

I never had any use for a toaster oven until I had no oven. I remembered the little toaster oven from my youth that made burned toast that my grandmother then scraped and buttered anyway. I haven't had a working oven in quite a while. I finally broke down and purchased a countertop oven perhaps the same size as the one Sharon is showing, maybe smaller. It wasn't a high end model, just an Emerson from Target. This Thanksgiving I did a 12 pound unstuffed turkey in it. I didn't think it was possible but it was. Since I carved it and froze the meat and almost everything for that meal I was able to do everything one item at a time. We had Thanksgiving on the sailboat where my son has been living in Long Beach since September. I find that it runs hot and I have to adjust the temperature dial down about 25 degrees. Also deep loaf pan quick breads will tend to burn on the bottom before they are baked through. So I divide the recipe into three mini loaf pans instead or use a small bundt pan. Glass also tends to lead to burned bottoms on my quick breads. We make lots of cookies, one-loaf quick bread recipes, pies and crisps and small bundt cakes. I haven't attempted yeast bread yet but I will at some point. I've baked pumpkin halves, and stuffing, and sweet potatoes. As long as the baking dish fits, I think almost anything can be baked in it. I don't use the mini cookie sheets one can purchase for toaster ovens, they are so small they are silly. Mine has a removeable bottom liner so I use that with parchment. It slides into the rack slot. Works fine.

This was my post on one of the 'Washer/Dryer' threads: Posted by lolamina (debmacjake@comcast.net) on Wed, May 14, 08 at 1:07 Can't speak on the washer/dryer combo...I have inclination to steer clear of 'combo' anything. But just purchased LG 7188 dryer (w/all latest bells and whistles) and I'm thrilled. Service, as for anything we purchase that we can't fix ourselves, is a concern...but if you take an up-front view of how often service has been needed on specific appliances...that greatly reduces it as a prominent decision factor. LG Clothes Dryers just received the 2007 J.D.Power and Assoc. HIGHEST RATING of ALL MAJOR BRAND clothes dryers! We searched for weeks, read hundreds of reviews, and really did our homework - LG hands down for best performance and best value. Also highly rated by all the 'subscription' consumer guides. Before you listen to any one persons 'service experience' and apply it to the entire Brand...get Pro-Active and see how often service is REQUIRED for your MODEL. Best bet until combos (one machine to do it all!) are perfected, side-by-side and stackable models may well out-perform and require less service. Good Luck!