I'm pretty sure there was a thread with a youtube video that showed how simple it is to move an internal switch to the full fill position. Do a search, or maybe one of the old timers will know the link and post it again. You have to open the control panel and just push a little tab, if I recall. OK I found it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBHO1bPnlUU

Hope it helps you.

You can adjust your fill. There are videos on YouTube that will show you how to do this. I fill to the top row of holes

I just drop lightly and evenly what I going to wash, erring to under fill. I put enough clothes/towelsto be just under the top row but careful not to pack. I fill the water up all the way for a full load no matter what it is. That is why I bought the machine. If smaller loads, I fill to cover plus a little more.

I use warm-->hot water and Persil 2 in 1 liquid to pretreat any spots I think need it. I don't need to pretreat cuffs and collars on white shirts anymore using the Persil 2 in 1 in the wash but I do pretreat cooking oil splatters and armpits on my husbands white T shirts even if I am using another detergent.

Thanks, I've used the reset knob but I'm still often unhappy my wash...I think part of the problem is having to use the extra rinse and long wash time for my allergies sake, seems harder on clothes than the normal setting with one rinse, you know? I'll try filling to the top again and see if it comes out without holes though.

Wash on heavy duty/normal cycle..turn other knob to add fabric softener I think that's what its called..set you water level to high...your machine will fill full. This also allows for a true hot wash.... Only way its not going to do a full deep wash and rinse is if you choose the eco cycle.

As for pounds of clothes..you will have to load and watch after it starts washing..watch for the turn over and you will get a idea how much you can wash.

Your machine should be able to easily handle a 16-18 pound load of clothes. You may need to post a couple pictures of what you are doing to give members a better idea of your issues.

MRB

Pics would be good...I know this machine has a full fill wash and a full fill rinse and true hot.

Measured weight/pounds is not so much relevant as circulation of the
items during agitation ... which is more related to how much room or
volume of space a given load requires.

Say that a machine is rated for a 12lb load. 12 lbs of jeans or bath towels is less volume of fabric than 12 lbs of nylon hosery. Stuffing literal 12 lbs of nylons into the machine wouldn't work very well!I've noticed that people tend to underload
their topload washers (based on numerous YouTube videos) in an apparent
attempt to get rapid/frantic rollover, which isn't necessary.

The
video mrb6228 linked above is a good example of a proper full load.

Nerdy I'm trying to understand why a SQ TL would need a tweek to fill fuller...the AWN432 fills dang near full and if a bit more is needed and I can't see why more would be needed there's a reset switch..just hold it over and you'll get more water. Thing is don't use the eco cycle.

Dadoes, the video you posted is a very good example of proper loading. This will probably be helpful to a lot of folks.

Nerdy, I am very hesitant to open up my machine, but I have given it some serious consideration. I'd lose my warranty, but it turns out the warranty technicians in my area refuse me service anyway, so we'll see I guess.

mamapinky I'm happy to post photos, but I haven't thought to take any yet, and I don't have enough to wash at the moment.

alaundry, clothes in the machine aren't necessary to see the water fill-level. You can post a picture of the full-fill level you get without any clothes ... unless you don't want to waste a fill of water to get the pic.

Keep in mind that the entire water level range is affected by adjusting the screw on the pressure switch ... so raising the high level also raises the low level. It's more facilitating in that respect to use the Reset function to get more water when needed instead of "permanently" adjusting the switch, although you'd need to add more water again for the rinse.

mrb thanks so much for the video, there's a ton on YouTube, so I didn't really know which one to trust. Someone at alliance laundry did tell me my machine is rated for 18 pounds of laundry, but at least with the lighter stuff that people down here on the gulf coast favor, I don't think the lid close properly over that much laundry.

dadoes yes, mass does not equal volume, but I was never sure how much turnover to look for in this machine and the manufacturers two thirds rule kind of failed me. Also, I am definitely prone to under load, was just getting the hang of my last top loader before I had to replace it with this machine.

I'd be happier to do less laundry by putting more in the tub, but with this machine when I start adding in amounts similar to what's in the video I end up with visible wear and tear on my clothes at the end of the cycle. As I mentioned up thread, I do have some pretty severe allergies, I end up having to use the extra rinse on every load. I've been wondering if increasing the agitation time by adding an extra rinse is part of my problem? There's really nothing I can do about it, but it sure would be helpful to know for sure.

dadoes I didn't realize you just wanted to see the water fill level. Honestly, I've wasted so much water re-washing clothes that didn't come clean, I can't see the harm of one more tub full at this point. It's filling right now, back in a few.

Here it is on the highest setting.

Also, thanks for mentioning that changing the fill level would change the lower cycles to. I had wondered about that. I don't think that's really going to work for me, I do think I'll do a little work on the lid lock though. There's no children in my home. Just a clothes pin, right?

Yep just a clothspin....your water level looks right...but if you need more for a large load Just hold the reset button...no sense in getting into the machine for this and it would void warrenty.. for rinse make sure that option that says use fabric softener is on than you get a full fill rinse otherwise you get a spray rinse.

mamapinky my model doesn't have a fabric softener knob, it does give a full tub rents on the heavy duty cycle, I've checked. Also, I think alliance may have fixed the lid lock fix. I can't find anything underneath my drain hose.

Your water level is lower than that of the machine in the video ... which probably is a slightly older model. Simply use Reset to get more water when needed.

I suppose extra rinses are required for people with allergies and chemical sensitivities ... but as was pointed out by a long-time service tech I know (again) in a discussion just today, every two loads with an extra rinse is the equivalent of having run three loads. Washers are mechanical devices that have an expected service life based on the number of loads run. Extra rinses cut the service life of the machine by approx 1/3.

Yep, lol. I've done that depressing math before. My hope is that with the speed queen being designed after the immortal top loaders of yore, I'll be able to replace something large after its first catastrophic failure and enjoy another 10 years from it. Honestly, I'm not completely against FLs, I just have really terrible mold allergies, and so many front loaders aren't all that good with getting out detergent residue. I won't have done myself much good if I have to use three or five extras rinses instead of one.

Alaundry, that is the same fill level that I get with my 6 yr. old AWN 412. As mentioned above, I use the reset knob to add water when I have an extra large load. Rarely do as I'm doing laundry for only 3 people now.

With a scuzzy load and with whites loads, I always stop the washer during the wash cycle and allow the clothes to soak...anywhere from 30 minutes to overnight. That gives the enzymes in the detergent time to do their magic and can reduce how long the clothing needs to 'agitate'. Also, I've read that oxygen bleaches, like Oxi-clean, remain active for up to 6 hours so I've reasoned that one might as well give them the time to work.

I haven't had any problems with 'extra wear' on clothing with the SQ. However, I do turn some clothing inside out before the wash. Jeans and some of the nicer knits. And use mesh bags for delicates.

I seldom use an extra rinse. Only if I've overdosed w/ detergent. I don't have an extra rinse option on the AWN 412 so I have physically turn the dial to the rinse setting after a load completes to get the extra rinse anyway.

I'm assuming that you're using an anti-allergen detergent? That might be part of the issue if your clothing isn't getting clean...i.e., the detergent may not have the cleaning power of a Tide or Persil. Allowing the clothing to soak ought to help some with that problem as well as rigorously pre-treating stains.

I had the AWN432 as an extra rinse on my asthmatic kids things once it was finished I turned the dial around and did an eco rinse.

ci_lantro when you do long soaks do you still turn the timer to maximum time for your extra dirty loads? Also, I deal with some pretty greasy laundry, do your dirty loads leave a film on the agitator when you soak them? I might be underdosing the detergent, I'm not sure.

I've recently changed detergents and the one I'm using now is the most powerful detergent I've ever tried. It doesn't have enzymes but it does work for my allergies. I've had to change so many times in the past years that if this one doesn't work I might be down but using hot water. My concern up thread was that the wear might have to do with using the extra rinse, then again, I think those little holes can come from under loading as easily as overloading, so hopefully that's the issue.

mamapinky0 I am using the full tub extra rinse, to remove the most detergent possible.

Extra dirty? Depends on just how dirty but, after the soak, I might let it agitate for a bit and then move the dial to the final drain & spin (no rinse) and then refill the machine and add a bit more detergent and leave it to advance through the cycle normally.

Greasy loads, I don't have but once in a blue moon. I would pretreat, wash as outlined above and add some non-sudsing ammonia. If there is a film left on the agitator, I would rewash.

IMO, the problem with those small holes in knits is in large part due to the poor quality of textiles, especially cottons.

If I have extra heavy soiling I sometimes run it through a wash and rinse and then a wash and double rinse.

My kids used to have really bad allergies and in the winter, they were so sensitive I used to use Ivory (old soap formula) and Calgon water softener, old formula(sodium hexametaphosphate). I double rinsed using a little of the Calgon in the first rinse to increase the solubility of the soap/detergent residue. I followed this with a clean rinse.

I think the stpp(sodium tripolyphosphate) , recommended here would work in a similar way but you can buy sodium hexametaphosphate.

http://www.needs.com/product/Miracle_Cleaner_Miracle_Cleaner_5/d_Laundry_Booters

Heavily soiled clothes will benefit from a prewash. This will get rid of a lot of muck...a single wash with heavy soils will not be enough to clean. The clothes will be soiled enough to fill the wash water with soil which is just being flushed into the opened fibers...the end result will be soiled laundry. I agree you will have better luck with adding STPP into your main wash. If allergies are a problem add STPP also to your first rinse.

The water level in your picture is correct for that model machine. On the Normal/ECO cycle, agitation starts at that level. Then, a timed amount of water at the selected temperature is added which would raise the water level by a certain amount. If the water level switch is adjusted to bring the water level to the top, please be aware that an overflow condition may result in Normal/ECO as an additional amount of water is added after the switch has been satisfied.

MRB

Here is a video from Speed Queen that explains the ECO action.

Malcolm

wekick thanks for the link, I already use a complex phosphate in my wash, nothing would be hypoallergenic enough for me without it, but I might buy that bulk bag for around the house. I'm allergic to so many different cleaning products and end up having to mix my own.

Ci_lantro, I try and buy sturdier knits, but at this point, my laundry has been through a lot of rewashing. I'll keep in mind, though.

Alaundry...good to read about someone understanding the benefits of a complex phosphate.

Mamapinky0 that's good to know, here I thought I was doing something wrong having to rewash. I use a tablespoon of complex phosphate in the main wash, Should I split it into half for the main wash and half of the first rinse, or just add more to the first rinse?

MRB, that is very helpful to know. I never use the normal wash, it doesn't remove enough detergent for me as mentioned up thread, but hearing about how it affects other cycle levels has already turned me off making that tweak to the machine.

Also, I've seen that video, doesn't seem like the product Trainer follows the two thirds rule, does it? Insert eye roll here. I suppose that load could be something other than clothes,( which they don't say should be loaded that low when you call in to alliance),but that's really what it looks like.

Dosing phosphates correctly can be tricky, I always say if your going to use it you may as well dose correctly if you expect results LOL

The easiest way to find out how much is the correct amount for you, because it will differ based on wster hardness and amount of waterr being used..is start your load of laundry, losd the clothes, add the water, but dont add the detergent..add the phosphate first whatever amount you have been using, let it agitate for a minute than feel the water..it should feel slippery, if not add more let agitate and feel again..once it feels slippery remember the amount you used....if the water isn't slippery than enough wasnt added to condition the water which means the benefits of the phosphate arnt there.

I would add the same amount to your first rinse as you add to the wash cycle.

Since you deal with greasy laundry I recommend a prewash to get rid of some of the muck first. Dont use phosphates in your prewash, but do add a small amount of detergent.

There is a 2/3rds rule for TL machines?

MRB

Yep and I have used it in the past 1/3'd part phosphates to 2/3'd parts of powder detergent by weight..I don't weigh them.

"Also, I've seen that video, doesn't seem like the product Trainer follows the two thirds rule, does it? Insert eye roll here. I suppose that load could be something other than clothes,( which they don't say should be loaded that low when you call in to alliance),but that's really what it looks like."

MRB

MP0

"Dont use phosphates in your prewash, but do add a small amount of detergent"

i am curious as to why you would leave the phosphates out of the pre wash?

I load my SQ so that when it agitates, you can see the clothes turning over. It is more than 2/3 full.

I just figured since its a prewash and phosphates arnt cheap you could see some small savings. It won't hurt to add them to the prewash indeed it can only help

MRB, we kick, in case I didn't mention further up thread, when I initially had problems getting the speed queen properly loaded after reading my manual I called into alliance laundry, several times in fact, and I was frequently told that I should only fill the tub two thirds full when I was washing clothing, because it needed more water than other types of linens. I had some installation issues that meant I got to talk to the engineers at alliance, I thought to ask one how he determined a full load and he said he always tells people to make sure there's 2 inches of water over the clothing, also emphasizing the clothing requires more water than say, towels. I admit, having a 4 pound load of T-shirts and the like running on the extra large setting treats the clothing very gently, but I had odor issues suggesting there wasn't enough agitation to actually get them clean.