Very glad someone is still using this thread. My stackable w/d in 2nd floor condo is older Maytag workhorse INSIDE CLOSET. Most stacked laundry centers are 27" wide and mine was installed by removing side wood strips but not actual door frame. Never a problem for many years. 3 nights ago felt carpet was wet outside w/d closet and found out washer had water underneath it. I had NOT done any laundry for past 2 weeks so figured it was leaking just from residual water in pump (now assume it would've leaked sooner if pump) or from leaking water intake hose (can't move unit to look even if I knew what to look for or outtake hose/pipe has clog/blockage. Had to turn off water at main since can't turn off at machine because it's BEHIND stacked units. Dried water on floor under washer in closet and eventually no more water leaking under washer. Now stuck between repair man and plumber deciding which one will come out to investigate. Don't even know if 30 year old Maytag workhorse parts are available. Some tell me to just get new stackable laundry center but not to expect it to last more than about 10 years. Found out this isn't unusual conundrum because by the time the repair man checks it out & say's it's the plumbing and I have plumber come out to see it water outtake is blocked I'll have spent half price of new stacked laundry center. Have to turn water main back on tonight because I need to collect much more water to flush toilet, wash hands, etc. Never saw example of how much water it takes to flush a toilet but need a lot more. After I turn on main for short time to collect more emergency water I'll see it washer leaks again and hopefully that will tell repair man and plumber which one has best informed guess if it's washer failure or outtake blockage. I know most people are going to tell me to scrap the old stacked w/d but it's been without any problem & it's a solid built pair of appliances. Am I soliciting advice in error when it comes down to my uninformed analysis of whether to money at repair of either machine/outer hoses and/or plumbing outtake blockage? And NO....once service and/or plumbing people hear it's stacked w/d they don't call back or tell me they don't send 2 people for initial call but can't tell me how one person is going to pull out very heavy laundry center to assess problem. GE stacked laundry centers don't get best reviews but they're the bulk of the market if you want at least average 3+-4 stars from all sales/review places. If anyone has advice on this situation please let me know. Have the feeling people who frequent this or "appliance" discussions will be of the mind to just get a new unit and dispense with all the guessing between repair man, plumber and myself isn't worth it given the age of the units even though I'll never get one that's a long term workhorse like my old Maytag laundry center. Maybe I just have to accept built in obsolescence of never appliances, HVAC, etc. and get on with it. But, but, but....sigh.

You have listed the one and only advantage to this method, which is to save space. We own a condo in Chicago where square footage is at a premium and having a "laundry closet" is our only solution so we stacked. If I had the space, or could make it work any other way, I would put them side by side. If you have the room, do as many have and put a countertop above your side-by-side machines for folding. Or pedestal-mount them for added height (you can't use pedestals when they are stacked) and storage below. When the machines are stacked, they are more difficult to pull in and out for service. Also, chances are that your dryer will outlast your washer. If you're not enamored with the Duets after 7 or 8 years and you've designed your space to only accept stacked machines, you'll be hard-pressed to slide anything other than another Duet (or maybe another WP model) under your existing dryer. Others may chime in with thoughts, but those are mine. Enjoy your new home and setup either way!

Hi Miami Beach The washer is 120V. The different model numbers seem to just be newer versions - but the specs on the latest versions seem indentical. We are happy with the washer. It does NOT have an internal water heater - so you will have to be sure that the water reaching the washer is hot. I'm thinking of adding a simple instant water heater, about $200 like the kind commonly used under a kitchen sink - to make sure that washer always draws hot water when it wants to. Right now - I tend to just run a nearby tap prior to wanting a hot water fill. The washing machine seems to wash quite a bit better than our old top loader did. It's not the quiestest washing machine - but it is hardly a bothersome noise either. The sounds are less "boomy" i.e. less "bass" than what a top loader would produce - likely due to less volume of water or mass. Apparently the Maytag branded version has automatic temperature control on some water temp settings - which means is basically runs water down the drain for you - until it gets hot - then fills with water. Personally, I prefer my idea to install an adjacent, simple, easy, electric instant water heater. They maytag version was recalled and ultimately discontinued in Canada, as for some reason, Maytag's version had problems with potential fires from the motor - did not control itself as well. As a fix - Maytag simply sent people GFI outlets?? This according the web - and a good service tech. Speaking of service tech - my complaint about the pair would be about the dryer - not the washing machine. The dryer is slower - but I expect this of a compact dryer. It also has a very tiny heating element. The plus - it never gets too hot, so less damage possible to your clothes. My real complaint about the dryer is that the sensor simply does not work right. I set it to "damp dry" - the least dry setting, and the dryer still completely dries out the clothes - and keeps drying for about 20 minutes after the clothes are already completely dry. I have had the first dryer completely replaced, the second dryer a sensor replaced all under warranty - but they continue to act the same. Serivce tech who was over told me they use inferior sensors in the asian machines - more of a temperature sensor than a proper humidty sensor. Now with a reno going on - they dryer is in an unheated room - temperatures around 44 to 55 Farenheit - so perhaps when it is back at normal room temp it will be okay. Since we got the pair for such a ridiculously good deal - we have decided to live with it if need to - and probably switch to a manual timed dry to prevent over drying. Samsung customer service in Canada has been very good - they have been quite willing to address the problem - a cuple times - even though so far - no success. We'll have to wait and see when the room temperatures are back to normal. Our prior bottom of the line GE full size dryer, was able to accurately dry clothes, even in these lower room temperatures. As to the size of the machine - we can pack as much or more than we could is our extra large old Kenmore top loader - so no concerns there. The king size front load machines are quite unnecessary. They have only become so popular because customers IMO in North America, can't seem to grasp the concept that a front loader really does have a lot more room inside than what LOOKS like a comparable sized top loader. Good luck!

You really don't need a number. I think there's only two models so you pick by features you like. Might be more than two but don't think so.