Wainscoting Nightmare!
Vania Toller
7 years ago
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kaye1951
7 years agoVania Toller
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Carrara Slabs vs Tile
Comments (3)How thick are the slabs. It seems like it could be a lot of weight if it was 3cm thick, like the traditional counter thickness. Are these slabs just for the wainscot and the entire shower area? I don't think that slabs will look like cultured marble. Just for fun I will include a picture of a room at the hospital I work at. It is now a meeting room but originally it was a surgical room and built around 1916. Still the original marble....See MoreIncorporating Rustic/Country Style into Brick Colonial
Comments (24)LOVE the gauzy white sheers. Adding that to my idea book for sure. That ceiling is maybe not *quite* as dark as it appears in that pic, but it's pretty dark. And they used flat paint on the walls, so that sucks additional light from the room. I'm not a fan of that blue-green shade regardless, so that's a must-paint room. It's just a question of how much. And see how all the wood tends toward an orange-y tinge? I'm really not a fan of that at all, and I worry that using light, cool colors will clash horribly. I'd really love a grey wall paint color, but I'm not sure how well it would blend with all the wood. And for furniture, we're looking at the white slipcovered pieces at Crate & Barrel or Pottery Barn. Here's a pic of the arch under the front porch; it's the same material as used in the sunroom ceiling. I truly love the silver grey look that nosoccermom is describing - in fact, I took a photo of a piece of furniture at World Market like it earlier, just to figure out how to reproduce that stain look. I would love it for our kitchen cabinets as well! Ah, I love all these ideas - thanks, y'all, and keep 'em coming! This post was edited by ShariLouWho on Mon, Jun 9, 14 at 19:32...See MoreWhat would you use?
Comments (11)Thanks for ALL of your opinions!! I remember that the way my top was made, the bottom has wood supports. The person who made it is an engineer by trade, and a woodworker as a hobby. He showed me the underside and it seems to be a work of art. He explained how it is all fitted together the old fashioned way. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think it is made very well. He spoke about how it will be less likely to warp or crack - at all. SO- I think only the supported part of it would get some silicone caulking - just as a finishing touch. I know he plans on screwing it down also. Do you think it can be stable and fine without ANY calk at all? Thanks so much!...See MoreBeaded board versus shiplap
Comments (48)There is actually something called a baseboard buddy? or something like that sold at BBB. Im not giving deign advice but to clear some things up. Most bead board or ship lap is made from cheap pine which is probably the lowest on the hardness scale in regards to wood In other words it dents and scratches very easily. Sheetrock is very easily repaired so if damages are your worry I would pic sheetrock any day of the week. Repairing wood isn't as easily repaired. Us a satin or above sheen such as SW Cashmere and it can be repaired or spotted in very easily. That said the higher the gloss as used on trim becomes harder to blend in. You can use every product on the planet if you use wood you will get bleed through and it might show up a year later. I am a wood worker and love working with wood and also like seeing the defects as that is the look i prefer. That said if you do not like that look use MDF. It is more stable and you won't get all the shrinking in between the boards and no bleeding through. Do not let anyone caulk in between the boards. This will make shrinkage show 10xs as much when the caulk fails. Anything used in moderation is acceptable. Pic an accent wall or two and use either. They have both been around for a 100 years. The problem comes when you have headboard in every room or shiplap everywhere. Pick and accent wall and in three years you will be glad you did!!!...See MoreVania Toller
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