Plywood, particle board and other wood surfaces bond well with construction adhesive, depending on the type of bond you want. CA will pretty much make it permanant. If you think sometine you may want to remove the top a silicone based caulk will work fine. The caulk would probably be my preference.

Others may suggest using screws to secure the top but I prefer using only the caulk.

Silicon caulk is my choice.

Why are you gluing down the counter? I would screw it from below. Only glue what you can't screw down (and level at the same time). you don't want caulk if your going to glue it down, use 100% silicone adhesive, and put dime size dots about every 12 to 15". Then push the top to set it and don't touch it for 24 hours. I still belive screwing is the best way to go.

I have wooden counters in my kitchen and pantry. I think they are screwed onto the cabinet bases as a table top would be attached to a table.

Don't glue the top down!!! Wooden counters should only be attached with screws. The back of the counter can be just screwed in normally, but the front needs to be screwed through slots that run perpendicular to the grain of the wood. This will allow the wood of the counter to expand and contract with changes in heat and humidity in your home.

If you attempt to hold the wood from moving across the grain, it will split.

Thanks for ALL of your opinions!!
I remember that the way my top was made, the bottom has wood supports. The person who made it is an engineer by trade, and a woodworker as a hobby. He showed me the underside and it seems to be a work of art. He explained how it is all fitted together the old fashioned way. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think it is made very well. He spoke about how it will be less likely to warp or crack - at all. SO- I think only the supported part of it would get some silicone caulking - just as a finishing touch. I know he plans on screwing it down also.
Do you think it can be stable and fine without ANY calk at all?
Thanks so much!

Ditto what sharon_sd said. Make sure that however it's attached, the counter can expand and contract freely.

Um, silicon caulk will hold the countertop in place and allow for movement---silicon does not harden, it cures and is elastic. If screws are used and put in too tightly---that will restrict wood movement much more than silicon caulk.

I wonder if the wood counter is actually wood---or is it MDF/OSB/plywood laminated with Formica/tiled? MFD/OSB/plywood does not expand/contract nearly as much as dimensional wood edge glued as in a table top.

I agree. Silicone really will allow the wood to move, yet keep it in place. If you are using screws, make sure the holes are elongated.

HandyMac- NO !!!!!!!
I went CRAZY picking this wood. It is 100% solid WALNUT.
He and I picked every piece out ourselves!!
I saw it before he oiled it, it was breathtaking!

Do you remember my wainscoting nightmare???? I learned a big lesson then - I chose the wood supplier, AND helped pick the wood!!
Thanks for all your help!

Then you truly have a piece of fine furniture!

However, real wood moves much more than plywood/OSB/etc., so the way your countertop is fastered is much more important!

The most movement will be across the grain---so if screws are used to secure the countertop, the elongated holes in the base cabinets must be perpendicular to the grain. These holes only need to be about twice as long as a single hole---and the screw needs to be installed as close to the center of the hole as possible.

I still feel silicon caulk will work just fine. The bonus for that is the fact using silicon caulk is non-invasive---in the remote case it did not work, nothing is damaged.