Paintguy is right. Here's my story. Too late to help now but maybe someone else will benefit. I gel stained my Pella fiberglass entry door 6.5 years ago and it looked great! Used Minwax gel stain and their spar varnish, as directed by Pella. However, it did not stand up to weather at all. It chipped and had to be varnished again every 6 months. This Spring it chipped all the way through to the fiberglass and pulled stain with it! Believe me, I did everything properly. My door faces south east and has no roof. But a neighbor whose fiberglass door faces north had the same trouble - he used the same products as I. My neighbor got disgusted and stripped his down to fiberglass and restained it with Sikkens products 3 years ago. No trouble since. Sikkens makes a Door and Window stain that does not require varnish over top. Fortunately for me, just before I started stripping about 36 layers of varnish off my door, it delaminated! Pella brought me a new unfinished slab (under warranty) and I'm using Sikkens to stain it. I've been told the varnish is the trouble. It's like putting a sheet of glass against the door, trapping the heat. Plus it isn't flexible enough to expand and contract. If I put up a storm door to protect it, the problem would've been worse due to trapped heat. Sikkens is specifically made for fiberglass doors. I don't have any vested interests in the company but thought I'd try to help the next guy... Here is a link that might be useful: Sikkens Door and Window stain

Latex is terrible paint for anything you care about. It's soft, it can't be prepped well for the next coat when it gets old; it takes months to "cure" even though it dries in an hour; it does not, by any means, look or feel anything like a good oil paint, in fact, in humid weather it can get very sticky, and there's virtually no way to get it to totally level out into that classic "satin impervo" look no matter how much Floetrol you put in it or how expensive a brush you use, though if you have a painter skilled in laying on latex they can get close, though with significantly more effort, or if you spry it, but spraying forces you to reduce it so much it degrades the paint. Downsides: oil does take overnight to dry, the solvents are not healthy to breathe; cleaning brushes takes an inordinate amount of thinner and slop buckets. Upsides: if you hire a good painter, you'll get a finish head and shoulders above latex. If I were doing a really nice interior, I'd be reluctant to slop latex on all that nice wood detail. As a former painting contractor, I can tell latex a mile away. I personally hate using oil, but I would never defend latex as great, or even particularly good, paint. Also note that if you can even get Ben Moore Satin Impervo oil in gallons, it has been reduced to high quality sludge through the removal of a lot of the solvents (VOCs) that made is so good. So be prepared to doctor it up with thinner or conditioners (Penetrol). The Impervo they sell in quarts to get past the VOC laws ("for metal only") is actually thin enough to paint with right out of the can. AS for yellowing, it does yellow with time but we're talking 15 to 20 years time--I have done over many many oil-based interiors, and the yellowing was kind of nice, if you were to ask me. I don't know what happened with the commenter above, no idea. Definitely not the norm.

Thanks for the input. A pro painter painted the Duration over my builder's white, 2 coats (no primer:( and it looks fine. But a neighbor's kid splattered some watery mud off their hands on the walls and I don 't think its cleaning anything like its reputation. I had the extra paint so did the bathroom in it, two coats over primer, looks good. Low odor going up, went on fine. Just don't know that it was that big a difference between other paints I've used in the past. So I'm not slamming it as bad paint - just don't know that its the big break through that it gets marketed as. Plus when putting up the christmas tree I made a chip in the pain to drywall in it fairly easy. Maybe its my expectations, I had plaster walls in my other old house - this drywall stuff just seems to dent, chip and get holes poked through the paper real easy. And I'm not tough on it, just a sedate 50 year old. I may try the Cashmere just as an experiment. Don't think I can go wrong either way, just to see the difference. Wish there was another BM dealer in town.

There is no paint industry standard for gloss or sheen. It's the subjective names that brands give to their different finishes that cause confusion. There isn't even any consistency within brands. For example. Behr Marquee's gloss/sheen levels aren't the same as Premium Plus. Benjamin Moore Regal levels don't align with Aura. Sherwin Williams Super Paint differs from the gloss/sheen levels of Duration. Generally speaking, however, paint brands follow the same-ish process to ascertain gloss levels of their paints. Remember, however, we cannot confirm that all the data was obtained exactly same way brand to brand so the comparisons you make are at best an ESTIMATED GUIDELINE of gloss levels. But, hey, a guideline is better than nothing. So, here goes: First thing you need to know is gloss is measured in units. It's called Gloss Units and you'll see it referenced as GU. Gloss units, GU, run on a scale of 0 GU to 100 GU. 0 is dead flat, 100 is ridiculous-mirror-like shiny. Find the GU for the brand/grade of paint you want to use on the paint can label or Google the Technical Data Sheet (TDS). Measurements are done at a 60° angle, an 85° angle, or both. 60° applies across the board and is most common. 85° is used for the low-gloss end of the sheen spectrum because of math. One might say it (85° angle) helps to dissect units of flattness into smaller bits so they are easier to discern. This chart gives you some context for the Gloss Units and Sheen. It's from the Mater Painters Institute, MPI. They got rid of the subjective finish names that paint brands made up and created this table of Gloss Levels 1 to 7 based on Gloss Units (GU). In actual application of this chart and these levels, I've found it works best when comparing gloss/sheen within the same brand and grade. It gets complicated and muddled if you try to apply the chart to comparing different brands and grades; mostly because the Technical Data Sheets don't follow a standard format for noting gloss units and sheen. For example, some call gloss units "finish", etc.