letting winter squash stay on vine vs. harvest
Don V Zone 5-6 Cleveland OH
7 years ago
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digdirt2
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agowayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
7 years agoRelated Discussions
How to harvest squash seed
Comments (3)Most of the references I found for "Sunburst" list it as a hybrid - in which case, see the preceding post. Saving seed for winter squash is easy; when you eat them, scoop out & save the seeds. For summer squashes though, you will have to let them ripen far beyond their normal size... and since it could be hard to tell when they are ripe (since they are seldom seen that way) you might have to leave them on the plant until just before frost. Allowing the mature squash to cure for about one month after harvest will improve the seed vigor. The seeds fatten up considerably during that time. Be aware that saving a summer squash for seed could severely reduce the yield for the remainder of the season....See MoreEarly harvesting Red Kuri squash?
Comments (25)They are perfectly edible early, and taste a lot like a yellow summer squash. For a winter squash, it's actually one of the best I've had eaten early. Pumpkins, for example, are edible, but not nearly as good. I've even eaten a few red kuri very early, smaller than the size of my fist, because I had to trim the plant back, and they had already set where I trimmed. At this small stage you can just pull them off and eat them raw. Of course, red kuri gets even better if you let them mature, and that's when they really show their unique texture and flavors that aren't there when eaten early. If you pick it early, just realize you are getting a much different squash than the mature version, and if you have them, I'd keep at least a few on the vine to eat them at their peak. I live in zone 9b, and I plant squash with the intention to pick most of them early, and by early, I mean sometimes as soon as the squash reaches full size. In my zone, red kuri simply explodes, and would cover my yard if I let it take it's natural course. The plants I are jurassic, with leaves far bigger than my head. The plant always grows first, and sets fruit first of anything else. This year it even set fruit before my arugala grew, which is to say, this thing is the largest fastest growing plant I've ever seen. Because it's so fast and productive, we grow enough to harvest them at all stages. You need a lot of space, but if you have it, this plant will keep you rolling in squash all season....See MoreWinter Squash Harvest Tips
Comments (5)I harvest winter squash once the rinds are very hard and I am sure they are mature. Cut them, don't pull them, and leave 2-3" of stem attached. Don't carry them by the stems because they may partially detach and then bacterial gets into the fruit and causes it to spoil and rot. I usually cure them for about 2 weeks, in the shade, on tables lined up under the covered patio. They might get an hour or two of morning sun but that's about it. If it has been rainy and they were kinda heavy with water when harvested, I generally lay wire racks on top of the tables which lifts them up above the table top a little bit and allows better air flow. After they are cured, I store them wherever I have space available. The best location is a place where the temperature stays above 50 degrees and the air is cool and dry. Humidity of 60-70% is preferred, but I've stored them at much higher RH values and much lower ones and it has worked fine as long as I had cured them well in the first place. Here's a list of the various places I've stored them over the years: on the floor of the walk-in pantry, on the floor of the linen closet, in the concrete tornado shelter, on a baker's rack in the laundry room, on shelves in the garage (which is well-insulated but unheated) and even on shelves in the potting shed (which is not well-insulated and is unheated). As long as they were well-cured before being stored, they are pretty happy wherever I store them. The C. moschata types store the longest for me and, among the C. moschata types, Seminole always stores for the longest period of time. I've had them last 12-18 months although I consider anything above 8-10 months to be just pure luck. If you grow acorn squash and spaghetti squash, they are not cured and stored like the rest of the winter squash. At most, under normal cool or cold storage conditions, they're only going to last a few weeks, not a few months and you don't cure them because they'll deteriorate quickly during the curing process and you'll miss your chance to use them....See Moresummer squash or winter squash
Comments (4)It all depends what all varieties are around you of the same species. Summer squash and many winter squash are the species C. Pepo and they all cross. The diversity of culinary use in the species is too high to think a volunteer will be good for anything, unless you last year planted a very limited amount of varieties. Like if around you was just summer squash and some acorn/ dumpling types they may be good to eat as immature. But if you had pumpkins and gourds it wouldn't be worth bothering. C Pepo is not a good species to let freely cross....See Morefarmerdill
7 years agodigdirt2
7 years agoDon V Zone 5-6 Cleveland OH
7 years agoBarrie, (Central PA, zone 6a)
7 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
7 years agoBarrie, (Central PA, zone 6a)
7 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
7 years ago
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