How to repaint this old trunk?
I bought this trunk a number of years ago to store my knitting supplies (it's great for holding lots of yarn!):
I don't care for the 1970-ish tole painting, nor the avocado green color. This past weekend I was in Santa Fe and happened to see a painted trunk in a shop window that I really liked. I took a quick pic through the shop window -- unfortunately with the glare all you can see here is a portion of the piece, but hopefully this will give you an idea of what it looked like:
I'd like to do something similar to my trunk to give it a look that will go better with my Native American décor and art. I'm wondering how this can be best accomplished. Obviously, I need to repaint the entire trunk first - probably black, as in my inspiration piece. What kind of paint should I use, having no idea what it's currently painted with?
And what about the design? Should I look for ready-made stencils that will work? I've briefly perused offerings online and there are quite a few out there with a tribal look that would work -- something along these lines:
Having recently purchased a couple of paintings by a Navajo artist in which he used stencils and spray paint along with acrylics, the inspiration trunk looks to me like it may have had the design spray-painted on as well.
I welcome suggestions on how to proceed. Thanks!
Comments (12)
msmeow
7 years agoUser
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Repainting / Restoring Old windows Questions with Pictures
Comments (7)"For the backer rod, do you simply caulk that in place or is there another form of attachment method that I should use first? " It should be large enough to require forcing into place before covering with caulk. About 505 wider than the gap seems to work well. If you need to you can even split the rod using a sharp utility knife. Uneven gaps can be a PITA to fill. the backer is just there as a base for the caulk, so using separate pieces as a long gap varies in width is not a problem (except for installing it). if any gaps remaining are small enough, caulk will not get through them badly anyway. Tiny gaps at mortar joints (less than 1/8 inch or so) can usually be tolerated. Part depends on how thick (viscosity wise) the caulk you are using is. A smooth caulk surface will look better up close, and if you apply it carefully ad too it smooth can look acceptable. You get some relief on second story work since no one normally can get close enough to see it well (but around a front door or ground level window looking onto the front steps needs to look nicer)....See Morei need to repaint a old cement birdbath.
Comments (1)You might want to check out this site for how-tos. They might sell product in smaller quantity for smaller projects. Here is a link that might be useful: Decorative Concrete...See More"Rooty" growths on 1 year old apple tree trunks. Apple Tree Gall?
Comments (3)I'm not an expert, so you will have to google it unless someone else chimes in. But those are aerial burr knots which m111 are prone to grow. My trees are 10 years old and they have outgrown them, I.e., it has not been an issue. No pun intended. I did have to battle knot borers but the latex paint wash at the base helped. It is less of an issue now as the trunks are bigger...See MoreGrout Painting/Sealing - re-painting over old paint
Comments (5)The 'guy' just wants the work and has little understanding/willingness to do what needs to be done. ANY finish (regardless of what it is) that is failing (peeling, etc) can and will cause the next layer to fail. It is simply the way of the world. Whenever you go over top of something, you are relying on the bottom layer's adhesion. Your 'bottom' layer is letting go (poor adhesion to no adhesion). You would then rely on this 'poor' adhesion to hold ANOTHER layer in place for 10 years or more. And that is simply unrealistic. The world of physics doesn't work that way. Once the bottom layer lets go, it will cause every layer ABOVE that to let go as well. I would plan on using whomsoever suggests removal and then repainting/sealing. The 'guy' who says he'll go over top of old/failing product is not worth the return phone call. His plan/finish WILL FAIL. We can guarantee it. Because the world of physics tells us it will fail....See Moremsmeow
7 years agocupofkindnessgw
7 years ago
Richard Dollard
7 years agoUser
7 years agoThanks, all! So ... spray it first with Rustoleum? Sounds easy-peasy! I've used the acrylic stencil paints in other projects:
How do you think they would work for this project?
Errant_gw
7 years agoUser
7 years ago
eastautumn
7 years ago
Olychick
7 years agoUser
7 years ago
eastautumn