Cat_mom and Lottery thanks so much for the complements. I really appreciate all your insights and great contributions to this forum. Lottery I LOVE WALNUT! Hunzi, I got the hardware off of this site: Directdoorhardware dot com. They weren't cheap. Aren't your still putting kids through college? We're done and they are both out and working. Yippy! This is the description: "PL63SQSSS Linnea Standard Bore Pocket Door Lock - Square Style Finish: 304 Satin Stainless Steel". The carpenter thought that they operated very nicely. He did think they were a bit of work to install. He is a very good meticulous carpenter too. He said he would not recommend them. But he didn't take as long with the second door. And I know he likes exacting work. I think he just expected to pop those puppies in. He is the carpenter that made my soapstone vanity stand and my cabinets for my first bathroom install. This is my second bathroom. Lee, thank you so much. I really take that as a complement! So you need pocket door hardware. The actual mechanism is by Linnea but it didn't come with an edge pull. I found the Sugatsune edge pulls that blended nicely so I picked them up. Can you use "flush pulls"? Here is a link I found with flush pulls: http://www.directdoorhardware.com/linnea_flush_pulls.htm The towel tree can be pulled over so I want to warn of that. This summer I had it in my other bathroom waiting for this room to get done. My 3 year old grandson pulled it over. Fortunately he didn't get hit! So I would only recommend the setup to responsible adults ;) I love it though. Regarding the medicine cabinet, tonight I might install the LED track. I had to order special adaptor that I missed on my original order. My electrician is ok with me doing this portion. He installed the hard wire 12volt. I will attach the LED strip and the infrared on/off switch. I did a plug-in setup in my laundry cabinet with the infrared and it has worked beautifully so far. Raehelen, many questions...with answers for you:) The medicine cabinet door is an actual medicine cabinet door that I acquired 20 years ago. I didn't even know about any of this stuff. It sat in my basement for all this time. I almost gave it away to Habitat for Humanity. When I was looking for medicine cabinets this past summer 2013 (you aren't the only one with a year long bathroom project, I'm sorry to report :( Anyway when looking, I saw a Robern medicine cabinet at Fergeson's and thought about my Robern cabinet door, "could I have an actual medicine cabinet door?" I did. It is huge! The door is double sided mirror, but the inner mirror is not as wide as the outer mirror. The inner area is a sturdy plastic with spots for hinges. That is what told me it was the same as the med cab on display. I thought that my cab maker could get those hinges and install the door onto a box. The edge is a black plastic that as a channel or grove all along the edges. It is about 1/5" thick. Here is a close up of one corner: I will take more pictures for you in a bit and post them so you and your husband can see the mirror better. Pipdog, thanks so much and coming from the one who has that most wonderfully light and refreshing master bathroom remodel from 2 years ago! Did you move from that location? It seems you may have said that. The pulls were a real struggle for me. I wanted minimalist and safety. I saw similar pulls but there was always a sharp edge to the sticky out part. I kept visualizing my naked thigh getting gored by a sharp pull! Mine have a gentle radius that is not edgy. These pulls, I found at Goingknobs dot com. This is the order description for my 10 pulls I ordered: 10 x (Richelieu) - BP57680140 - Richelieu Hardware Bp57680140 Contemporary Stainless Steel Edge Pull 80MM Chrome Finish @ $6.14 I like that they wrap around the drawer front and get attached to the back side of the drawer front. To me it is more stable with the particle board construction of the walnut veneer cabinets.

Yep - your second picture. What I was trying to say is that the lock itself is easy to use. It turns easily and locks just fine. However, if you're trying to use the pull (to open the door, or pull it out of the wall pocket), it isn't all that easy or intuitive. The pull is the tiny piece that is jutting out at the end in your picture. It folds down and lies flat, and then the whole piece can be pushed into the interior of the door too. If the whole assembly is pushed into the door, you sort-of have to know where the pull is. If you push on the top of the pull the bottom pops up (like what is shown in your picture) - but if you don't know that, you are faced with an entire pull assembly that is flush with the door itself. It is spring loaded, and it comes out when pushed upon very easily - again, you just have to know how to use it. :) I hope that makes more sense? The lock is easy to use. The pull is really small though.

According to Johnson, you just can't stick a 2x3 under the track, you have to pull out and replace the entire pocket frame. They couldn't tell me why. The one in the PR with the finished floor only has a 3ft wall so cutting a 30"x 18" (or whatever to get a cordless in there) wouldn't be that destructive. Pulling out the whole 3ft wall to the corner and to the floor to pull up the 1" blocking under the metal pocket frame would be. They suggested adding material to the top of the door and lowering the trim to hide the joint. We want to lower the trim to the same height as the other doors (and it's precut so didn't go all the way to the finished floor anyway, about 1/2" above) but since all the woodwork in the house is stained I thought the additional material would show. These doors need to be finished, I guess we could add 1x3 to the top and sand it flush then finish the doors but you would see the grain running perpendicular to the stiles if you happened to look up and the trim didn't completely cover that top 3/4" (plus hangers). Grinding down the screw head to get it to fit in the nylon underside of the hanger and grinding the threads off (too big in diameter) b/t the hanger and the nylon "lock" seems like a bigger pain than lowering the track and patching/painting (though it would have to be a nice job walking from foyer into kitchen/family). Not sure about adding material to door(s) since they're to be stained. The other 3 doors are in the unfinished master bath, 2 have pockets in closet (would have to temporarily remove 1 rod) and would not have to be a great patch job, the other slides into pocket on side of vanity that I want to replace anyway, but the patch/paint has to be a little better there.

"I went to work in an office that had a pocket door that never worked right because someone had driven nails into it at some point and it was never the same after" (palimpsest) Yes. This happened to us when DH nailed the baseboard on the wall between the laundry and kitchen. The door came off track. When we renovate I will replace or remove. However, this was builder grade. On our extension I added three pocket doors. The one I had put in for the powder room is a solid core door, not thinner than most doors, as I wanted as much sound-dampening as possible with such a device. We used Johnson Hardware - not the home depot variety which runs $ 40 or so, but commercial grade. Look at the Johnson site under 1500 Commercial Grade and you will also find non-standard size frames (door max thickness 1 3/4"). Use a good carpenter.