We had a similar issue. The prior owners put in particle board and carpet over the original wood floors. They cut the pocket doors down to the "new" height.

We were doing a major remodel and opening up the walls anyway, so we just lowered the track. I would think grinding down the screwhead would be much easier for you than ripping out walls.

According to Johnson, you just can't stick a 2x3 under the track, you have to pull out and replace the entire pocket frame. They couldn't tell me why.

The one in the PR with the finished floor only has a 3ft wall so cutting a 30"x 18" (or whatever to get a cordless in there) wouldn't be that destructive. Pulling out the whole 3ft wall to the corner and to the floor to pull up the 1" blocking under the metal pocket frame would be.

They suggested adding material to the top of the door and lowering the trim to hide the joint. We want to lower the trim to the same height as the other doors (and it's precut so didn't go all the way to the finished floor anyway, about 1/2" above) but since all the woodwork in the house is stained I thought the additional material would show. These doors need to be finished, I guess we could add 1x3 to the top and sand it flush then finish the doors but you would see the grain running perpendicular to the stiles if you happened to look up and the trim didn't completely cover that top 3/4" (plus hangers).

Grinding down the screw head to get it to fit in the nylon underside of the hanger and grinding the threads off (too big in diameter) b/t the hanger and the nylon "lock" seems like a bigger pain than lowering the track and patching/painting (though it would have to be a nice job walking from foyer into kitchen/family). Not sure about adding material to door(s) since they're to be stained.

The other 3 doors are in the unfinished master bath, 2 have pockets in closet (would have to temporarily remove 1 rod) and would not have to be a great patch job, the other slides into pocket on side of vanity that I want to replace anyway, but the patch/paint has to be a little better there.

All thread rod, reduced size nuts, and Loctite thread locker.

Make the fastener you need.

You might also be able to find a 1/4-20 threaded coupler (hex outside threaded all the way through) and use it and a stub of all thread (or cut a bolt's head off) to make an extension.

All thread rod won't work b/c I need a head to insert into the hanger plate on the door, and would have to grind down threads on one end to fit into it since 1/4-20 is too large for the hanger plate but I need it to go into the roller assembly. BUT...threaded coupler and 1/2" or so of all-thread should work! I'll look around. Thanks.

Unless the doors are stain-grade, why not add a 1" filler to the top of each door? Use glue and screws. Then bondo the seam and repaint. You could add to the bottom instead if you deemed that preferable.
Casey

Hi, Maybe replace the doors. If you do the rails are MDF which won't hold screws, To install a screw figure out where the screws will be and drill a 3/8 hole and glue in 3/8 dowel and put the screw in the dowel.
The old doors make great tables for garage sales or family picnics
Good Luck woodbutcher

Doors are stain grade solid-core, solid 6-panel pine with veneered rails and stiles. I got 3/4" 1/4-20 couplers before dinner and cut rod to 1", we hung the PR door, no Loctite yet, we'll see how it holds up. We will be lowering the trim at least 1/2", need another 3/4" to hide the hardware at the top. Might still decide to lower tracks on the 3 in the master bath before we finish the bath, then we'll decide what to do down in the PR but this will work for a while.

Casey - we finally hung the basement door, I didn't get all the black dust off the bottom molding of the bottom panel before I finished it, never noticed til it was hung. Wouldn't you know that's the kitchen side, not the basement. Might have to move that door to the mudroom closet (where unfortunately it will still face into the room, but the lighting isn't as good LOL). Cleaned the hinges and pins with mineral spirits and used lithium grease. Might have to replace hinges and pins - the pins on the basement door were very worn after only 3 years! Main bath and DS's door get a lot of use too, they're probably just as worn.

I have the same problem but in the door channel there is some wood that will hit the door if we buy it higher. Buying higher door would not solve the problem. I am desperate because I have 2 double pocket door in the new addition....they look so weird with 1.5" under...what kind of door is that?

"...they look so weird with 1.5" under...what kind of door is that?"

Badly installed.

The Johnson instructions make some assumptions in calling for a 3/4 to 1.5 inch clearance.

A good carpenter should have realized this.

You should easily be able to get down to about 1/4 inch clearance at the tightest space in the door opening (floors are not always level across doorways, especially in older houses).

Short of tearin gout the track hardware to lower it, with extensions on the hangers or padding the bottom of the door (this may look bad on stained doors) should work.

Gluing a piece of wood the same thickness as the door to the bottom and then prepping the joiunt carefully (Minwax high performance wood filler works well here) will make in invisible joint after painting and priming.

I extend the width of doors with patterns on them on the pocket side the same way to center raised panels when the door is closed.

This saves ordering a wider door and trimming the width down t center the pattern.
It also helps make sure the door remains over the centering piece on the floor of the pocket.

The Johnson supplied plastic guides WILL eventually scratch the face of the door when they touch it.

A small piece of aluminum angle in the floor of the pocket and a matching groove in the door's bottom edge work much better.

I use the 111PD hardware kit (not the pre-built frames).

This gives maximum flexibility to getting a solid wall within available spaces.