12' deep for a master bedroom is doable but it's tight. Yes you have room for a dresser at the foot of the bed. King bed is 80" long without headboard or footboard. So that leaves you with 64". A wide dresser would be 24" and most are about 21" wide so that will give you just about 3' walking room around the bed.

Personally, I'm a klutz and go bump in the night when I wake up. I would personally prefer an extra foot in the master bedroom, which is doable with lakeviewgirl's plan. You would lose the linen closet in the bathroom, but would still have plenty of room for the tub and shower, and the large vanity. And with her layout of the closet, you'll still actually be ahead of the game regarding hanging space.

Here's what I mean:

Our current bedroom is where the bed/office is. And we could change the plans to keep that as the master, since they will be about the same size. But the view will be better in the addition, and also we are looking forward to a large bay window...

We have a queen bed with no plans to upgrade. (Just bought a new bedframe) So the bed in my picture is to scale.

I did consider having the closet open into the bedroom, and I like that design. But I am worried it would be the aisle too tight in the closet, and also in the bathroom. Do you think there is be enough room to be comfortable?

Also, we have to be able to access the front of the furnace, which is the short side. Any ideas on how to make this possible? Keeping in mind it can't be in the grey area.

You guys are awesome!

Here is the other plan I had drawn up previously that solves the furnace issue, and gives us the bigger closet & bedroom. How do you feel about this one? Better?

I wouldn't like making the 'end run' through the MBR between MBA and closet.

Off to a movie right now, but I'm going to play a bit either later tonight or tomorrow. I personally would like my bed up against the window wall with the entry to the bathroom/closet at the bottom. This way neither person has to walk around the bed to get to the bathroom

Your winder stairs down are asking for a problem of transit and/or moving anything large up or down the stairs. The location of the furnace means you will be fortunate enough to wake up and hear it every time it come on. The placement of your bed means you will always have a good view of the bathroom door and the interior of the bathroom. Are these the things you are trying to achieve?

A note on the bed fitting- our Master is 13x13, and we have a queen- will never have a king, and it fits just fine. We also have a large enough closet there is no need for storage in the bedroom, just night stands, and the perpetual argument about mounting a tv or not. So, something to consider.As a pure bedroom, where we sleep and don't have "sitting room" and special areas, it works just fine for us- we chose to dedicate footage to other areas.

We also have a seperated closet/bathroom, and prefer that set-up as we don't need to bother each other in the bath to get to the closet, as it was a problem in a former residence.

I don't like to walk through a bathroom to a closet either. We have a short hall with flanking closets between the MBR and the MBA.

I'm just the opposite. I hate having to walk from the bath through the bedroom to get to the closet. My DH keeps very weird hours. It's nice that his activities can be contained in the bath/closet without disturbing me.

I would want a water closet rather than the toilet in the open like that. With the large shower, if someone is using the toilet and the other is in the shower, they're on display to each other. I don't mind watching DH in the shower :-) but I'd rather be more private using the commode. I would give up a lot in order to get a private toilet room.

I do like having the closet accessible through the bathroom--I shower, then go get clothes. It works for us.

For the shower size, be very careful that they are just under 72" rather than just over. There's a huge increase in door cost when you go over 6'. (Ask me how I know that). In most parts of our build, being off an 1" wasn't a big deal--when we went to pick out a shower door, that extra inch or two cost hundreds of dollars and decreased our choices.

Good luck!

Hi Ladygibbs, I'm a little late to the game but hopefully this can help you.

First though, why are you stuck in a 16x26 design?

What is the existing exterior house material? If it's something more 'permanent' such as brick and you do not plan on refacing the entire wall, I would stagger the exterior wall. If it is siding and you plan to remove all existing siding and do it all over, it's ok to have it in-line with the existing, however it's typically better on the foundations to stagger. And IMHO staggering helps blend in the addition.

The stair with the corner - that is wasted, you're essentially paying for the foundation, paying for the exterior wall framing, exterior siding/brick. All you have to pay for is joists and flooring material and you've got all that extra room for a few pieces of lumber and flooring.

The stairs shown are also way too small, you will have crazy steep stairs or 4' of headroom on the way down there.

I quickly copied and pasted (and stretched) this up before seeing it needed to be 16x26. But it may be something worth considering. Not sure where your views are but this would seclude the master suite a bit more so that guests don't see your bedroom first thing when walking into the foyer.

ETA: I'm obviously missing doors and have some shown where they're not needed. The idea is to create almost a hall off the foyer which leads you into the main master bedroom space.

I had an idea, but it didn't work within the space you have.

Have you considered moving the master bedroom to the bedroom/office and then rearranging the bathroom to work with it? The master would become the office/bedroom.

Thanks for the ideas guys. As stated before cpartist, we are open to making the bedroom/office the master.

We are also open to a different size of the addition and different placement of stairs.

Siding is all getting replaced and we would like the addition to be flush against the front of the house.

Our septic tank is back there so we can not make the addition longer than 26' and still 16' wide. We can have a smaller "bump out" back there, but no larger than probably about 10' wide. I've attached a picture to show what I mean, although location of septic is not exact, just a rough estimate.

Would something like this work?

After talking with husband and builder they would prefer not to do a bump out if we can avoid it. So new idea is to make the addition 18'x26'.

I would be open to pushing the closet 2 foot back into the current office/bedroom as long as the builder was willing. This appears to be the only good option that I can think of.

Here's another idea to play off of. It's not yet ideal but what I like about it is the bedroom is in the corner so you have windows on two walls. Plus now the bedroom is better insulated from the stairway and from the front rooms. The furnace can partly go under the staircase or if not can be it's own closet in the bathroom instead of the linen closet. There's plenty of room.

The hallway to the bedroom, can be lined with books or hidden storage, or you can make the bathroom tub smaller and then add the door to the bathroom from the master.

I like that design. To be honest windows on two bedroom walls aren't that important to me. The left wall (south) is facing the highway. And we usually keep our curtains closed. The view to the (top) west is much more beautiful. And I envision bubble baths while watching the scenery. The only issue is having to go into the hallway to enter the closet or the bathroom. Not a huge deal to me, but husband doesn't like it. I think it's an option worth considering.

Another design, that works without having to frame into the current bedroom. This works by changing to a corner bath, and shortening the vanity.

I created the hall to act as a sound barrier to other rooms in the house.

Can the furnace go into the basement instead?

That is a good idea cpartist. Just not sure if the extra sound barrier is worth the smaller bedroom.

Hendricks no it can't unfortunately. That was the original plan, but our furnace croaked out and we had to replace with a down flow furnace to match up with the current ducts.

Husband likes the corner tubs. We are interested in this one, although I couldn't find much information about the quality of Laurel Mountain. Anyone have any experience with them?

The HVAC guy came out yesterday to discuss and I think we have actually decided to just purchase a whole new upflow furnace so we CAN put it in the basement. It will be less labor for him, and more space for us. It hurts to replace a furnace that isn't even a year old yet, but he is going to buy it back for partial price, or we can try to sell it.

Would love some more floor plan ideas now that the furnace is out of the way.