Typically the fan rests on a ball that sits in the cradle. After disconnecting the wires, lift upward on the motor to raise the ball slightly and then the shaft should fit through a slot (or open end of a C shape) in the mounting bracket. After removing the fan motor, the screws holding the fan to the fan box (if done properly) should be evident and can be removed to remove the bracket. If done as a hack job you may find toggle bolts or something else securing the fan bracket to the ceiling.

Okay, just tried to lift the motor up and it won't move independently. Also the wires are not available to disconnect right now- they are not accessible as is. This is a flush mounted fan so there is no downrod.

Ok. I got it off! Next problem. The holes on the housing (pictured below) do not line up with

Sawzall?

Some Hunter low clearance fans just have two prongs that the fan rests on. Try pushing the housing to one side or another to see if you can dislodge it from one of the prongs.

Or, there is a hook on one side. In that case, take the nuts off the hook side first,...if there are any...

Can you try to find the manual online? Or call the manufacturer?

I found a manual for my 25 year old miter saw online recently. It really helped.

Anyone have input on he photo above of the ceiling box? It's plastic?

disclaimer: I live in a cape cod built in 1940 and the fan is at the top of the stairs.

The fan comes off as Fred S says. Loosen both nuts and then support the motor unit with one hand while you remove the nuts with the other. Let the fan then be held by the hook while you disconnect the wires. The motor unit can then be taken down.

The box is metal, though painted with enamel and may seem to be plastic.

JM$.02W

Make sure you or someone else is holding onto the fan when the second bolt comes lose. And I presume you've thrown the breaker?

Yes- here's the issue now:

NEC 314.27

(D) Boxes at Ceiling-Suspended (Paddle) Fan Outlets

Outlet boxes or outlet box systems used as the sole support of a ceiling-suspended (paddle) fan shall be listed, shall be marked by their manufacturer as suitable for this purpose, and shall not support ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans that weigh more than 32 kg (70 lb). For outlet boxes or outlet box systems designed to support ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans that weigh more than 16 kg (35 lb), the required marking shall include the maximum weight to be supported.

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They do make plastic outlet boxes for paddle fans. Then, the fan is supported independently from the box.

The only boxes I know of that look like that are metal.

Plastic boxes are perfectly round.

A metal box rated for a fan will look more like this.

It's black plastic. Not metal.

The non-metalic octagon boxes were not used very much. Other wiring methods have made them not necessary, almost obsolete.

314.2 Round Boxes. Round boxes shall not be used where conduits or connectors requiring the use of locknuts or bushings are to be connected to the side of the box.

314.3 Nonmetallic Boxes. Nonmetallic boxes shall be permitted only with open wiring on insulators, concealed knob-and-tube wiring, cabled wiring methods with entirely nonmetallic sheaths, flexible cords, and nonmetallic raceways.

Exception No. 1: Where internal bonding means are provided between all entries, nonmetallic boxes shall be permitted to be used with metal raceways or metal-armored cables.

Exception No. 2: Where integral bonding means with a provision for attaching an equipment bonding jumper in-side the box are provided between all threaded entries in nonmetallic boxes listed for the purpose, nonmetallic boxes shall be permitted to be used with metal raceways or metalarmored cables.

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Back to the subject at hand...

You should get a box that is rated for a paddle fan, but the holes probably won't line up either, unless you get a 4" box that has holes a little further apart. (I don't really know what size yours is now) If the holes on the new bracket are far enough apart, (and you have access from above) you could nail 2×4s to the joists on each side of the box, and use #10 screws to screw into the boards at least 1.5". Or use a saddle type box that goes over one 2×4. If you do not have access from above, you take out the old box and replace it with one of these.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/15-5-cu-in-Retrofit-Ceiling-Fan-Saf-T-Brace-0110000/204845572

The local hardware store will have several other options, depending on the situation.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/crousehinds/commercial-products/catalog-pdfs/ceiling-fan-boxes-supports.pdf

The first fan I put up the instructions said to span a 2X4 across the top of the box and attach the 2X4 to the joists and then screw thru the box into the 2X4.

314.23 Supports. Enclosures within the scope of this article shall be supported in accordance with one or more of the provisions in 314.23(A) through (H).

(B) Structural Mounting.

(1) Nails and Screws. Nails and screws, where used as a fastening means, shall be attached by using brackets on the outside of the enclosure, or they shall pass through the interior within 6 mm (1/4 in.) of the back or ends of the enclosure. Screws shall not be permitted to pass through the box unless exposed threads in the box are protected using approved means to avoid abrasion of conductor insulation.

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314.43 Nonmetallic Boxes. Provisions for supports or other mounting means for nonmetallic boxes shall be outside of the box, or the box shall be constructed so as to prevent contact between the conductors in the box and the supporting screws.

There has been a fan installed there for at least the last 7 years. I'm wondering if I could just use a metal drill bit to make a new hole in the bracket for the side that does not line up. Thoughts?

i do not have access to the box from above.

I think I've come up with a solution- I just exchanged the replacement fan which was a hunter for a Hampton bay. The original was a Hampton bay and since I know the bracket for that one fits, this one should fit too. We will see!

I would not trust those tabs to hold a fan if they are plastic. If one of those tabs cracks then the fan might come loose and the other tab might break from weight and it could freefall.

It kind of looks like one of the tabs is already stressed and ready to crack (white line). Really should look at replacing that box with a metal fan rated box, using proper stress relief or grommet in the knock out(s).

Should not be hard to change out the box if there is a stud above the box and box is simply screwed into the stud.

As Fred S and Vith point out, I don't think you have a legal (or safe) fan box there. You need to replace it with a proper one. If there is no building structure there for it directly to attach to, they make retrofit fan boxes that use screw out brace that fits between two ceiling joists. I've had to put them in TWICE when I've taken down fans found to be only connected to the ceiling drywall.

Retrofit fan box

Good news! It's a metal box. I was wrong.

better news! New fan is in and working. Phew.

thanks for talking me through it.