Italian look-alike trees for zone 5
Andrew
7 years ago
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moving tree from zone 9 to zone 5
Comments (2)Even if they were hardy which according to everything I read about them, they are not, they would turn brown the first sign of typical zone 5 winter temps. I am just to the north of atlanta, what people refer to as z7, and those trees which are very common here brown out by mid winter. Had I known how dissatisfied I would eventually be with this brown period I would have planted something that stays green. I'm not saying not to just that I wouldn't put them in a real high profile area. That is because the trees look like they have died. I thnk keeping them indoors is a particularly bad idea as well and will set you up for failure with this tree in your climate....See MoreNew to Gardening (Vegetable) -- Looking for Tips in Zone 5a or 5b
Comments (6)I think you can send/take a soil sample to Cornell to get testing done. They can probably test for lead if that seems likely to be a problem as well as pH, major nutrients, and organic matter. You can do some basic tests as outlined here: http://organicgardening.about.com/od/soil/a/easysoiltests.htm http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/articles/hows-your-soil-texture.aspx?id=81680 Adding organic matter to the soil is always good, particularly if it is clay (yours sounds like it has quite a bit of clay) or sand. Some options to get additional compost might include: Can you borrow a truck? Could you hire a landscaper to deliver city compost for a cost that seems reasonable? Can you rent a truck (I think some of the big box stores rent trucks by the day/hour)? Is there a soil/mulch/compost supplier that can deliver a quantity from their bulk stocks for a price that seems reasonable to you? In future years, you may be able to pick up other folks leaves curbside to create more of your own compost. How worried you should be about contaminents may depend on where you are planting. For instance I live on an old farm, so in general I don't worry, but I don't plant anything edible near the house or where other old buildings stood since lead was used in house paint for many years, so I just assume that the soil near the house has a relatively high lead content. Likewise, I wouldn't plant next to a busy road since lead was a gas additive, but if your land has no history of industry, I wouldn't worry beyond that. Covering the grass is a great start since it will add organic matter as well. If you used enough layers of newspaper and it has been on long enough, most of the grass will have been killed. Grass will grow sideways into the garden under the stone border, so I would add a V shaped trench a few inches deep that gets refreshed a couple times over the course of the growing season to help keep the grass from growing into the veggie bed. Keeping mulch on the surface will help prevent weed seeds from sprouting and keep moisture levels more even. There is a vegetable gardening forum and a soil forum and also I think a composting forum here on GW where you can also ask questions....See MorePlum Tree selection zone 5
Comments (6)I am in SE WI and love Stanley! However, the one I grew lasted about 6 years and then got black knot so bad I cut it down. Too bad as the last crop it bore was 2 bushels of very tasty plums. I am hesitant to replant a plum after that. Although I read that some varieties are less prone to black knot and Stanley is noted for being highly susceptible to it. Tests with Italian Prune plum where I work (at a nursery) were no better as all got black knot in one season. Whatever you choose, make sure you have pollination covered as some plums are self-pollinating and some are not....See MoreLooking for recommendations for privacy - NW Illinois Zone 5
Comments (8)Take three plant species. A spring blooming small tree - crabapple, a deciduous and evergreen shrub - Hydrangea paniculata and Ilex x meserveae, the Blue Holly. Plant them in front of, among and behind the trees. Plant them for screening the sight lines you want to cover and consideration of their sun needs in the quantities needed. Maintain the ground of this buffer as a meadow with whatever comes up. Just give the trees and shrubs some elbow room if needed while they get big enough to fend for themselves. You can add more meadow plants later once you know the mowing schedule that suits you best. Once a year works fine for me. This is where your leaves can go for the winter. That and the shade will determine what kind of meadow you get....See MoreHuggorm
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoAndrew
7 years agoSara Malone Zone 9b
7 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
7 years agoSara Malone Zone 9b
7 years ago
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK