Need help treating either fungus or grubs
Ali
7 years ago
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7 years agoAli
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Fungus gnats -- treat soil or dump it out and start over?
Comments (5)If I'm not mistaken, I read where a dish of vinegar placed near the seedlings will attract fungus gnats. They fly in and drown, although I haven't tried it. In the past, I used a small clip-on fan clamped near seedlings, to discourage fungus growth if my potting soil wasn't sterilized. It also helped make the seedlings a bit stronger, I thought. Sometimes commercial potting soil needs to be dried to kill the mold spores that sometimes occur. If mold spores are in the soil, warmth inside the plastic bag can create an atmosphere inside the bag that promotes mold and damping off. Since I began making my own compost for seed starting, I have less problem with the above, because my compost reaches enough heat to kill most organisms that are harmful to seedlings. Potting soils don't need anything - fertilizers, etc., to promote initial growth. I would sterilize the potting soil - sun exposure, etc., before planting. Just my 2 c's. Bejay...See Morefungus damaging lawn quick, need help
Comments (4)You don't want to treat for fungus unless you know for certain it's fungus. Dig a core sample 4 inch deep and inspect the roots and soil for insects, worms and such, any grubs. There are ways to test for insects. Put a PVC pipe or tin can open at both ends and stick it 2-4 inches deep into ground. Pour in 2 cups of warm water with 2 drops of liquid dish detergent. Wait 10-15 minutes and see what surfaces. Then soak the area with a sprinkler to dilute. Bottom line: you need to know what you have before you treat it. Here is a link that might be useful: The Little Green Apple...See MoreHow do I know if its fungus, grubs, soil, or water problem? (pic)
Comments (5)I'm interested in this one. It looks to me like watering was the obvious problem. I wish you had mentioned where you live, but if your temps are over 105 from June through Aug, that pretty much narrows it down to a band from Las Vegas south through Indio to Calexico and east to New Mexico. I grew up in temps like that (before the SoCal smog cooled things off). Your problem area is on a slope. Slopes, hills, and mounds drain water fast. With your low humidity, high temp, and on a slope; your grass is not getting enough water. The only way to really keep moisture on that would be with a soaker hose running continuously at a trickle. Rather than do that, I would let the grass die out and do something else. It also looks like you have the wrong grass for your zone. It looks like fescue in the pictures. It should be bermuda if you absolutely have to have a grass. At this point I would plant xeriscape plants on the slope. I don't think you can water it enough under your conditions. If you don't want xeriscape plants, then you could mulch heavily in there and plant pretty much whatever you want that is adapted to your area. Keep the mulch on, though. When people come here and report a "clay" soil, they usually have clay but without a healthy population of microbes, especially fungi. The people with healthy soil don't usually report having clay. The fungi will help your soil retain moisture, but you have to have moisture for the fungi to survive. That's where the mulch comes in. As for the rest of the lawn (not on slopes), you should water deeply and infrequently. In your case, twice a week is probably infrequently but three times is pushing the limit. The idea is for the surface of the soil to dry out between waterings so weed seeds will not germinate. No problem with twice a week in your area. As for duration, 20 minutes is not nearly long enough. I water from 1-3 hours per zone. Last night I watered 6 hours because I've been away for 3 weeks and my wife doesn't water that long. Once you have a healthy population of microbes, your soil will not allow runoff, so even with 6 hours, it all soaked in. As for your yard, unless your sprinkler pours out the water, I would start moving up toward 1 hour (from 20 minutes). Watch your grass for signs of wilting. If it wilts, water immediately but water more heavily (longer) until you can go from one watering to the next without wilting. With a clay base, once you get the microbes going, you might be able to stretch it out to once a week watering, even with your heat. Watering at night is probably not a problem in your area. Our water restrictions in San Antonio require night time watering year round. I've been doing it for a couple years and have not had any more problems than when I watered in the day - and I was expecting problems. Then again I'm on an 100% organic program and fungus diseases are not much of a problem, so your mileage may vary....See MoreNeed help identifying & treating this disease/fungus?
Comments (5)tlbean2004, thank you for your response. I am located in Virginia Beach, VA. Our weather has been fluctuating a lot lately. A couple of the recent days have been very humid and in the 90's while other days have been cool 70's. We have also had spells of dry sunny breezy days and a couple rainy wet days. In regards to pests, I have found a couple of small "regular" spiders and one tiny red spider (spider mite?). I have removed all that I found, sprayed with insecticidal soap and have not seen any others for the last few days. Hopefully, someone here can identify the problem and has a cure. I am rather new to gardening and am learning as I go. :-)...See MoreUser
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