Central AC help - HouseFan running, Condenser not running when called.
Selfie Smiles
7 years ago
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Selfie Smiles
7 years agoAustin Air Companie
7 years agoRelated Discussions
House lights flicker/dim when I run washing machine
Comments (10)I have the exact same issue but performed a few different troubleshooting steps that were not mentioned here. To begin, this is a rental home built in 1972. All aluminum wiring with some copper for lighting overhead that was updated in 2009. My washer is brand new, LG high efficiency & overpriced. I’ll add that I have a matching oversized LG gas dryer too. They both plug into 1 receptacle with the a top and bottom outlet. This is wired back to the breaker box as 2 20 amp circuits. They share a neutral wire. The circuit breakers were old and not joined with any bar that physically connected the two switches into one so that one off makes both off. The receptacle was old, loose and burnt up some. And even more concerning, the tab on the line (right side) was not broken to properly separate the top and bottom circuits. Luckily I didn’t find out the hard way. Although the panel was not labeled/correctly, I went through process of elimination by turning everything off and then testing one breaker one at a time and matched to outlet(s)& lighting it controlled. I assume that someone replaced this laundry receptacle at least once in the distant past and forgot to break the right tab. I replaced the receptacle with a new 20 amp outlet and broke the tab on the right side only. There is a red & black wire (on right with tab connecting top to bottom removed) and one shared neutral wire that is white (on left with tab intact.). It is also grounded of course. I also replaced the two circuit breakers in the box with new and specifically for this type of setup. It has the bar that physically joins the switches for off and on. I also checked and tightened all neutrals in the panel. But even after all that, the damn dimming still occurs when agitating. I should add that all my lighting is LED too. Here is the last important clue that I would think others could try too. I was doing some laundry and it had just started to agitate and dim like always. Just as a temporary measure, I paused the cycle & then hooked my washer up with an extension cord to another nearby circuit. It’s about ten feet away and it’s a heavy duty cord but was my last straw of an idea to check & was not a permanent arrangement. Anyways, the washing machine worked fine and there was no dimming throughout the entire cycle. I left it like that for a few days and it continued to perform without dimming the lights. Additionally, this dimming would occur whether the dryer was also being used or when it was off. Keep in mind that they share one neutral. I tested both the top and bottom outlets and the readings all indicate a grounded correct setup. There is no open neutral. I still don’t know why it does this but believe it is definitely related to wiring, not machine. Perhaps i also need power company to come out like person above had when their issue was resolved. I’m moving to purchased home in a matter of weeks so the landlord can decide how to proceed from here. just to give you an idea of the mess this was.......See MoreRunning AC in "dry" mode only
Comments (34)Removing humidity via central air conditioner, minisplit, window unit, portable a/c unit with an exhaust hose, or standalone portable dehumidifier all involve refrigeration and cooling ... humid room air is pulled across a cold evaporator coil to entice the moisture to condense onto the surface of the coil ... like "sweat" on a cold soda can or glass of iced tea, etc. ... which is collected and drained away. Slow airflow rate promotes the moisture condensation. A Friedrich (rebadged LG) window unit at work has a Dry setting ... which sets the fan to low speed and automatic-cycling mode (vs. the fan blowing continuously). It can't be changed to any other speed on Dry. Regular Cool mode has three speeds and option of automatic or continuous fan. The thermostat continues to function to control the set room temperature on Dry, there's no evidence that it cools lower than the setpoint. Other units or systems may skew the thermostat a bit so that they can cool to a lower temp in an attempt to run longer and remove more moisture. My parents' Lennox central system with humidistat/humidity control does that ... there's a set-up option on the high-tech thermostat to specify how many °F below the setpoint it can cool in an attempt to reach the target humidity level. Mom mentioned a few months ago that they set it on 76°F but it sometimes cools to 74°F and dad gets cold. They had the humidity set on 45%, and I found the 2°F overcool in the setup menu. I explained to her why 74°F happens, she said "I don't understand what that means." I raised the humidity setting to 52% (but didn't change the overcool allowance since humidity is a concern on the TX coast). A standalone dehumidifier doesn't effectively cool the area because they don't exhaust the heat outdoors ... the cooled/dehumidified airflow is blown across the warm condensor coil inside the room space which rewarms it. The room temperature can increase because the compressor operation adds some heat. Central a/c systems, minisplits, window units, and portables with an exhaust hose don't work that way, they always cool the room ... except Patrick Pelletier on July 9 2020 above says his portable unit instructs to remove the exhaust hose so the warm exhaust air blows into the room instead of outdoors, which effectively turns it into a standalone dehumidifier-type of unit. Lower humidity feels cooler to the occupants because moisture/sweat evaporates off the skin much more readily for a cooling effect....See MoreNewly built house... A/C running all the time to keep cool??
Comments (113)I mentioned way up thread that you should talk to friends or your real estate agent and ask for the name of an a/c company that they trust. Explain your situation and have them come out and do an inspection. It could be a very simple fix, like a duct tear. You are more likely to get someone to come out now when it is slow than in the dead of summer. Don't go into a long complicated explanation. Just say you feel like the a/c is not working properly, the builder is ignoring calls, will you come out and do inspection? If the a/c inspection finds a more complicated issue then take some photos and you will have ammo against the builder....See MoreOutdoor A/C compressor runs when Gas Furnace kicks on in Winter
Comments (9)In order to replace the outdoor unit, you will need to replace the indoor coil as well because it uses R-22. Good luck finding a R-22 compressor in 2019. If it's not leaking and you have a scroll compressor in the unit I would let it ride til it dies. I am not sure which type of compressor you have because according to the manual it came with both types. You can look inside the condensing unit and if the compressor is short and fat it's reciprocating compressor. If it's tall and skinny you have a scroll. Scroll units are pretty robust, even if you have a reciprocating unit if it aint broke don't fix it. Change the contactor. The part is cheap and easy to install. Cut off the power to the unit, discharge the capacitor take a picture if you can't remember how it wired and go for it. Fire it up this spring and if it runs and keeps you cool, let it be. I have a 21 year old R-22 reciprocating heat pump on a rental and with the exception of an occasional cap and contactor (mainly damn fire ants) it runs fine. If your looking for a more energy efficient unit, that is a different story....See Moremike_home
7 years agoklem1
7 years agoAustin Air Companie
7 years agotigerdunes
7 years agoAustin Air Companie
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoSelfie Smiles
7 years agoUser
7 years ago
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