Hi pampered_g_jr, Many Nepenthes can adapt to your home humidity and temperature, I have heard that lowii is best given a drop in nighttime temperatures down to 60 Fahrenheit and day highs of 80. It is an ultrahighland from Borneo I believe. The alata is much more adaptable and easier to grow in home. In any case, light is one of the most important considerations for any plant, so partial sun, like in a non-south window, or strong flourescents, like a compact 100 watt equivalent or 2 40 watt shop light tubes, are essential. If flourescent light is used, it would be best to place the Nepenthes at least 5-8 inches from the light for proper color and pitcher formation to occur. Water with distilled, rain, or mineral free water from the better R/O units... some do not remove salts which would build up in the soil and kill the plant slowly. Water by top watering and let the water drain through the soil and do not have a tray under the pot, Nepenthes roots will rot if they are left in stagnant water too long and so over watering and under watering are both a problem. Just water like a houseplant a couple times a week and make sure their soil never dries or gets waterlogged. Also, do not put distilled water in their pitchers, that does very little for the plant except make it more difficult for the plant to catch and digest insects properly. Some care sheets say to do that, but they must be joking, the pitchers have lids and produce their own fluid, which is a mix of enzymes and preservatives, after all. Sometimes Nepenthes will stop producing pitchers and have dieback in it's present pitchers when it's environment changes too drastically, like a humidity shock. A slow change from high humidity to low over several weeks will help harden the plant to your home humidity level. The lowii might never adapt easily, so a terrarium or some way to provide consistent humidity (100% at night and 80% in daytime) might help it. It probably will not die, but from reports I have seen, they do not grow their best without their requirements met. Normal household temperatures should be fine for the alata, the lowii can withstand temperatures up to about 80-90 degrees in the day and down to 60 at night with a requirement for that lower temperature at night. Once again, if this requirement is not met, it probably will not die instantly, but it will be distressed and be very unhappy. Some people fertilize their Nepenthes by foliar feed directly rubbed on their leaves with a damp cloth. The fertilizers that work best are orchid blood meal in very dilute solution of 1/4 or less and no more than one time every two weeks, once a month even better. It is easier to overfeed and burn the leaves or kill the plant than to underfertilize. I never have needed to fertilize my Nepenthes, I just make sure it gets an insect every week or two. If it looses it's pitchers, sometimes a little temporary fertilizing will perk it up and make it produce again. Make sure no fertilizer gets in the soil, that can kill carnivorous plants in a few weeks or months slowly. Soil requirements are dictated by acid mix and high level drainage. One part peat moss of the bale variety with no fertilizers or additives and 2 parts plain perlite is good as is one part coconut husk, one part orchid bark, and one part peat moss, making sure that no salts or additives were placed in any of your soil ingredients. It is safe to say that carnivorous plants of virtually all types are allergic to any additive to their soil that would change the Ph from acid. Water with minerals and salts (hard water over 100), fertilizers, and chemical treatments (like copper based fungicides) would all harm the plant if it gets in the soil (copper also inhibits pitcher production if sprayed on the leaves). Fungicides and pesticides should be sparingly used and of the sulfur or neem oil extract type with pyrethrines, no soap based natural insecticides, those would add nitrogen to the soil when bacteria breaks it down. There are not many fungus and insects that attack Nepenthes, but they do occur sometimes. The conditions I keep my N. sanguinea in are as follows: Light: 4 40 watt flourescents of the cool white shop light variety 5 inches from leaves. Watered with distilled water every 3-4 days and misted 1-2 times a day. Temperature is between 65-80 degrees according to seasonal difference indoors. Humidity is relatively high in my region, probably 60-70% indoors with central air. Plant is in a 5 inch pot of coconut husk/peat/bark mix. Each pitcher is digesting a variety of insects as it's fertilizer of choice. Flies tend to be more interested in the Nepenthes than they are in the Venus Fly Trap. Here is a recent photo of the young plant with it's newest 4 inch pitcher. Good luck with your plants.

Saw the baby today perched on a branch just a couple of inches from the nest, with parent on the nest. Checked just now - no sign of either of them. This has been a great opportunity, have had several kids quietly observing with me. The parent became alarmed once and flew from the nest, doing the "I'm wounded" performance. My 10 y/o friend Emily did a very graceful imitation of that flight the next day for visiting relatives. Thank you for the guidance you provided. I really appreciate it. Rosie, Sugar Hill, GA

I have personally seen one egg hatch on the 21st day (nest cam) but that is very unusual. There were 3 in that nest and only the one hatched. Diane, just to be on the safe side I'd probably leave them another day or two but it's probably unlikely they'll hatch. I'm sure that extreme cold or heat can be a factor in a failed nesting. I understand how you feel, not wanting to be the "bad guy" by removing her eggs but they do forgive and forget quickly and buy cleaning out this one, she might have another go at it. I think I'd remove the eggs but leave the nest. Lisa, I also suffer from CRS! On a daily basis! :D

As someone who has done this before, I’d recommend hiring it out, because it can be dangerous. However, if you insist on diy: get tarps, tape the mirror with masking tape (regular tan tape is fine), wear eye protection and heavy duty gloves. Try prying behind the edges slowly with a pry bar. Sometimes it pops off in one piece. Sometimes it shatters. I’d start at the bottom, because you don’t want the top shattering and falling on you. If you can get behind it with a wire, that will work, but if it goes to the ceiling it may not be possible. Did I mention calling a pro? That’s what I would do.