Most low voltage recessed lights (LED included) will not supply enough lighting, unless you have quite a number (eg - 1 per ft or more). Assuming an entire LV setup with 1 or more transformers You will need to calculate the number of lights needed, the length of low voltage wiring, wire gauge, number of transformers. DC voltage lines suffer more voltage drop than AC lines. That's also the main reason why line voltage is AC. If you're using halogen lights, the wires need to be fairly thick due to the amount of current drawn. The above configuration is highly impractical. There are LV recessed lights that have the transformer built into each fixture. (3" - 4") http://www.pegasuslighting.com/4inch-12v-recessed-lighting-housing-remodel-75w.html. There is a danger that the light fixture itself could fall if fastened to ceiling tile. However, if the drop ceiling is standard sheetrock that is properly supported and fastened, you will not have a problem. Some alternatives - T8 fluorescent lighting or LED ceiling tiles.

Kitchen wiring requirements are very strict and quite complicated. For starters, if you truly have no existing wall outlets, you will need to provide at least 2 20a GFCI circuits for wall outlets to meet code. These cannot be used in conjunction with any other wiring. Usually you will then need a 15a dedicated circuit each for: dishwasher; fridge, hood fan (esp if this is a microwave/fan combo, in which case the requirement may be 20a) If you have a disposer it can be combined with the dishwasher circuit--but check your local requirements. Cabinet lighting falls under the miscellaneous requirements, but usually it would be combined on a 15a circuit with other lighting (or even other non-GFI floor level plugs in some jurisdictions). You cannot have any aftermarket soft cord style wiring enclosed in walls (although running it through cabinets is OK) Depending on your configuration, you may find it easiest to locate a utility box either on the underside of the cabinet (ours have a deep recess so it is easy to do it that way), or even inside the cabinet, and install a standard double outlet and then have that outlet switched by a wall switch. If you wanted to have two "strings" or runs of UC lights, you could add second run from the wall switch, & have each side of the plug switched separately. The typical installer leaves some NM (Romex) cable poking through the drywall, which you would then bring in through the cabinet back into your J-box, install the outlet etc. Normally they would leave some slack and you can cut the drywall to move it up or down, once you know where you want it to come out of the wall & then patch appropriately. If you UC lighting is low voltage (like pucks or some strips) you would then plug in the little power bricks, & run the manufacturer's low voltage wire through holes drilled in the cabinets to hook every thing up. You can keep it fairly tidy by stapling in place and bundling unused wire & zip-tying it by the transformers. Some UC lighting is made for direct wiring--in that case the NM (Romex) wire coming through the drywall is hooked directly to the junction box on the fixture, & often the manufacturer's own wiring is used to link (by holes drilled through cabinets) to the next fixture. But if you wanted to control the UC lights from a wall switch, it may still be easier to install an accessible junction box to collect the wall switch wire(s) and power feed from the breaker box, since usually the room provided on the U/C fixture is not large enough to add the additional wires needed for a wall switch. If the fixtures have separate on/off switches (some do, some don't), leave them all on at the fixture, and then use the wall switch to control them.

Also check with your insurance about coverage and options so the FD can through in case of fire. I know some that have strobe sensors that will automatically open at the flash rate just like traffic signals. Some insurance companies will give you the finger if there is a house fire and the FD could not access the property. Also in a storm and power outage situation or outage because of fire the 12v solar/trickle charger is the best option. I would go solar 12v with maybe a small 400 to 600 watt wind turbine with a marine battery and also could easily run some LED lighting also. For the price of trenching anything that far a person can buy many other nice dependable alternatives. I know there are some remote opener options that are RF that could reach that far and probably still much cheaper than running and maintaining a 1500 foot cable. I have ran cat5 1000' for internet to a farm building and granted lost a lot of 'speed' but it is still better than nothing and very usable. I just spent 30 seconds and found a gate opener that might work. Think outside the box... I would call your local FD and see what they recommend or how they handle such situations.. then consider calling your insurance provider and go from there. Here is a link that might be useful: 1500' RF gate opener 35 bucks

They sell a 10-piece filter assortment with most of the available filters, so you can experiment with what works best. You start with a reflector bulb with a 10 degree beam spread in your choice of color temperatures - 2700K (warm, like incandescent), 3000K (a bit whiter, like halogen), 4000K (cool white fluorescent tubes, but with better color rendering), or 5000K (cool, matches daylight streaming through windows). The filters can widen the beam spread, which starts out as a narrow spotlight, to a wide spot, narrow flood, or wide flood. There are four sizes and shapes of the squared or rectangular beam shapers. And finally three filters that will "warm" the light, so if you ordered the 4000K bulbs, you could change it to 3500K, 3000K, or 2700K. Doing this slightly reduces the efficiency, so I'd get the lowest color temperature bulb you'll ordinarily use (and they're very efficient - each bulb uses only 7-1/2 watts, but is as bright as a 50 watt halogen bulb). You also have a choice between 12V low-voltage or 120V line voltage (or 230V in most non-US countries). Using low voltage helped make the old halogen bulbs whiter, but I don't see any advantage to using 12V low voltage for LEDs unless you are converting an existing halogen MR16 setup. If you're installing new lamps, using 120V line voltage (GU10) will save lots of money by not requiring transformers or expensive low-voltage dimmers, and will be less prone to buzzing. They also have two series of bulbs called Vivid VP3 and Brilliant. You want the Vivid/VP3 which has better color rendering (95 CRI in lighting parlance rather than 80), meaning you won't get dull or inaccurate colors like you do with fluorescent/CFL bulbs or lower-quality LEDs. Filter 10-pack includes: 25ð Beam Spreader 36ð Beam Spreader 60ð Beam Spreader 10ð x 25ð Linear Lens beam shaper 10ð x 36ð Linear Lens beam shaper 25ð x 25ð Flat Top beam shaper 36ð x 36ð Flat Top beam shaper 1/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 1/2 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 3/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 40ð beam spreader with glare-free louvers sold separately More links: Filters 120v line voltage bulb detailed info 12v low-voltage bulb detailed info Info about color rendering Info about non-yellowish white rendering Those last two links aren't technobabble by the way; this company was founded by a guy that won a Nobel Prize for inventing the blue and white LEDs that made LED lighting possible.