Entire room of low voltage recessed cans w/separate transformer?
dfw17
13 years ago
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David
13 years agodfw17
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Is a low voltage halogen can too hot for inside a valance?
Comments (13)IMHO, it IS possible to use 4" for general lighting, but it really depends on your spacing and ceiling heights. It seems like a lot of lighting designers will try to over-light a space based on rules of thumb, but if you work at it and understand what you're getting, 4" LV can work. 5" is useless since your likely choice there is a PAR20, which puts out LESS light than an MR16. I agree with norm, Alzak reflectors definitely help get the most out of MR16's and an EXN or FNV will help a lot. We just setup some cans to try out lighting our living room on a grid that's about 32" in one direction and 52" in the other. The 52" is a little shadowy at head/chest height, but down at 24-36" it's pretty even and gorgeous. We used Juno IC44N's with 447 trims for this, but we chose Haze instead of Clear. One other note, you don't likely want the TC47V (note V) - that's a 230 volt supply. You want the TC44 or TC47. The 44 can accept up to 50W and the 47 goes to 75W. If you don't think you'll need the 75W, use the $$ -- smaller transformer and slightly shorter can should be cheaper. After googling around (hint: in google, enter your search terms and then "site:gardenweb.com" to limit to this website) I suggest you visit a local showroom to look at different trims, lamps, and light sizes. It really helped us....See More12V transformers in parallel to lower the voltage drop. ( Y /N )
Comments (21)I have seen some ridiculous installation of LV lights lately. Systems wit transformers rated over 400 V-A, meaning the 12 V output is capable of over 33 amps. The huge wires required to limit voltage drop (and low voltage circuits are FAR more sensitive to voltage drop than 120 V circuits) is a PITA to work with, splice, and then feed to multiple loads. I have installed a good number of 60 V-A power supplies that can each support 3 20 W 12 V bulbs. Unless you go wild extending the leads on the lights you cannot tell if one light is shorter or longer than the others. They have a common feed form the power supply and then are all fed from a small junction block. You can sink a 120 V receptacle through the back of an upper cabinet, drill a hole for the plug, and put the small power supply, terminal block, and the three pucks under the cabinet easily. The only complaint I have is the single mounint screw tab for the little power supply and the double sided tape they try to use to mount them. A little bit of aluminum flashing makes a much better strap to hold the things up. There are even double power supply units with two separate supply circuits on a common 120 V feed but with separate outputs. Each can supply three 20 W lights for a total of six from a single 120 V feed. They are useful for longer runs of cabinets. Some manufacturers have listings that allow hard wiring the power supplies, others must keep their plug. The units listed for hard wiring take very little room in an upper cabinet. You can recess the box into the cabinet back (and wall if needed) just far enough to allow access to the bottom for the feed to the power supply from a hole in the bottom of the cabinet. By having low voltage,low power (60 V-A) and EXPOSED wiring the wiring rules are not nearly as stringent....See MoreLow Voltage UC Lighting System Questions
Comments (5)Thanks for the responses! It reinforces my belief that Seagull is a good system to go with. I just called their Tech Support and was told that I can use my current 120V wall switch wiring with a new dimmer switch that feeds electric to the transformer. The transformer then outputs 12V electric to the actual lighting system. The transformer can handle 2 line input for the track wiring so if I place an electric transformer in the middle of my L shaped cabinet area I can run the lights to a distance of 10 feet either side of the transformer before there is any wattage dropoff. The electric transformer has a max 150W load which should be more than enough for what I need on the that portion of my kitchen. Larger spaces need to use the magnetic transformers which carry higher loads and allow longer wiring tracks for lights. I hear that electrical is better than magnetic though if you can go with the load and length restrictions. My desk and butler pantry areas which are across the room will still need separate transformers and switches but that is acceptable to me. So I hope to start out by installing the Seagull system in my kitchen cabinet area first and see how I like it. Then will add the other 2 areas at that point. I still appreciate any additional input, comments or personal experience with this or similar systems. Love the information that comes out of these forums. It has saved me many times from making wrong decisions, plus it sure helps me to focus on issues I would otherwise not even be aware of. Thanks!...See MoreLow voltage pendants for kitchen
Comments (4)I have Tech Lighting low voltage pendants in my kitchen. There is absolutely no noise from the transformer. Tech lighting pendants are pricey but they are high quality. They have quite a few contemporary red pendants to choose from. Look at the link below. There is an option to filter by color. Click on the red box. If you find a pendant you like you have options for the type of system you want, the color, the finish (satin nickel, bronze etc.) and the type of lamp you want. Mine are mounted with a Free Jack 4" round flush canopy system (as opposed to a mono rail or cable). The Free Jack mounts to a standard 4" junction box with round plaster ring (provided by electrician). The electronic transformer is included and fits in junction box, so in other words its up in the ceiling.Here is an overall picture of my lights In this picture youcan see the 4 inch round canopy. The transformer is up in there. Low voltage pendants...See Moretexasredhead
13 years agobrickeyee
13 years agoDavidR
13 years agobrickeyee
13 years agosayde
13 years ago
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