Desertgarden, it still is "hot" here in October with temps ranging from 90--100 or so. It doesn't start to cool off until towards the end of October. October is what I call our up and down season. Nice weather one day and then the next it is hot. Then bam, come November 1st, it cools off dramatically. Usually by the end of November is it cold (cold being a relative term for me). We can have nights below freezing by the end of November and daytime highs in the 50's. Oh, and of course, our lovely fog season starts then. Can't see your hand in front of your face. That is when we have our 100-200 car pile ups on the freeways as people drive like they can see in the fog--which they can't. This year, we shall see how La Nina hits us. Last time we had a La Nina, we had snow for a couple of days with temps not above 28 degrees. Really bad on the citrus we grow here. Not looking forward to that again. Went to bed last night about 9:15 and it was still 94 degrees outside. After a week of 109--113, we are supposed to cool off to the low 100's. I think it is only going to be 103 today and they may be right since at 5 am this morning it is only 76 degrees. Roses are still pumping out blooms. Pretty Jessica, Blue for You, Eyes for You, Peppermint Parfait, Occhi di Fata, Candice, Wedding Cake (those blooms last forever on the bush) and Midnight Blue.

Cori - You're doing a great with your roses! I have all the ones you posted but yours look fabulous. Ann

Where are you at in CA? North, south? Is it a dry heat or more of a coastal heat? Shade like that here in CA may not really be like the shade in other areas. You may need a rose that is simply really sun/heat tolerant. On my trouble areas that are NW facing, and also get shaded by the house like you’re describing I put pink supreme carpet roses, but I admit I don’t really count that as a rose, more of a landscape plant. It does great in a troublesome spot like that though. Gets about 4 feet high and wide here and blooms all the time. In other SW facing areas that get full day sun in the summer and a lot of radiant heat, I have these pink ones by Kordes that have all done surprisingly well in the heat. They seem to really love the heat actually! These were all taken during the heat waves of summer/fall in CA last year... First Crush Summer Romance I don’t have enough photos of SR saved, but it was a real winner in scorching heat here... if you do a search on houzz/gardenweb for Summer Romance you will see a few more photos from me) Madame Anisette Another that can take the exposure you’re describing is Koko Loco I wouldn’t put Princess Charlene de Monaco in a place like that. Mine is a bit of a diva and needed coddling and A LOT of water last year. The leaves and everything were getting scorched last year. It’s much better now, but it’s in a western exposure spot with a bit of afternoon shade.

Re-check what Frank Gatto, the owner of rose-nursery advised for his high-rain acidic PNW location, and HE LIMED ONLY IN MARCH, and no more afterwards !! I checked on liming and lime DOES BURN in hot weather, and cause wilting & scorching of leaves from its extreme alkalinity (pH over 10). Roses Unlimited formula for planting hole is a bit complicated, so I post a simple formula below (I also mix in 2 cups of alfalfa meal for growth-hormone). Frank Gatto's roses are grafted on Dr.Huey (prefers alkaline), so he's heavy on liming! I would use less lime (1/2 cup) for large & years-old established rose in high-rain climate. Farmers routinely use lime with nitrogen in spring time since lime boosts nitrogen uptake. https://goodlifenw.blogspot.com/2012/07/seven-essentials-to-growing-healthy.html "SOIL — For planting, Gatto mixes 50 percent native soil and 50 percent organic compost or potting soil and adds a cup each of bone meal and Garden Lime per bush. He also gives established plants a cup of lime in March, for optimal soil pH." I translate this to 1/2 potting soil and 1/2 my clay (on top), also mix in 2 cups of alfalfa meal plus 1 cup Plant-Tone (has bone meal), and 1/4 cup lime to neutralize the acidity of 2 cups of alfalfa meal (or 2 TBS of lime to neutralize the acidity of 1 cup of alfalfa meal). For LARGE established rose (grafted on Dr.Huey), Dr.Huey rootstock prefers alkaline pH, versus own-root prefer neutral pH, versus multiflora-rootstock prefers slightly acidic: "Gatto advises giving roses small but frequent meals, as opposed to large amounts of fertilizer less often. He uses a balanced granular fertilizer with an N-P-K number no higher than 20 (such as 15-15-15), along with a blend of organic meals including alfalfa, cotton seed, fish, blood and kelp. "I give each one a handful (about a half a cup) every three weeks." Water thoroughly after feeding." So he uses 1/2 cup of chemical fertilizer 10-10-10, plus 1/2 cup of organics like Espoma Tone per LARGE bush (3' x 2') every 3 weeks for grafted-on-Dr.Huey (heavy feeder). Big-fat-foot-long-Dr.Huey-rootstock needs heavy fertilizer, but for tiny own-roots, I skip chemical fertilizer altogether and use only 1/4 cup organics every 2 weeks. Since pots leach out nitrogen more, I use 1 TBS. Osmocote per month, plus 1/4 cup organics (Lilly Miller) every 2 weeks per pot. There is 6% sulfur per 1/4 cup of Osmocote PLUS NPK 15-9-12 (applied every 6 months per 2 gallon pot or 4 square feet, per label instruction). Sulfur is for growth & dark-green leaves, but Osmocote PLUS DOES NOT HAVE calcium. Since we have heavy rain in spring, plus heavy rain in fall. I limit liming to early spring, or late fall with cool weather. Lime does burn, so best in cold & week-long rain. Below is the Squire (older Austin rose), which has bush beauty (nice color), plus heat & drought tolerance (very thorny). Blooms have zillion petals, so the repeat is slow. The Squire with dark-green leaves prefer alkaline so does well with liming. I also give it potassium to prevent blackspot after blooming. Potassium should be twice more than calcium per rose-tissue-analysis: