Bush beauty & fast repeat & heat and drought tolerant?
strawchicago z5
2 years ago
last modified: 2 years ago
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strawchicago z5
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRelated Discussions
Heat tolerant vs heat resistant vs heat loving
Comments (33)In my zone 6b Pennsylvania garden, I grown Gemini, Tamora, Lavaglut and olog. I have a friend in the same zone (near me) who has Cherry Parfait and a DIL who has Frederick Mistral. I'm thinking you might have slightly more humidity than I. My gardens are all day south exposed full sun. Gemini is a wonderful rose and does quite well, even with disease resistance, but like Diane NJ say, it shuts down over the very hottest, most humid part of the summer. Winters, it seems quite strong. Besides being very small, Tamora doesn't do so well in the heat and humidity either and is more prone to black spot. I'm not as thrilled with this rose as I could be and it suffers from winter die back. Frederick Mistral also suffers from winter kill, but not to the extent as Tamora. It is also a larger bush, more heat tolerant but still prone to black spot. Cherry Parfait, olog and Lavaglut are all outstanding in the gardens around here. Cherry Parfait is more prone to black spot, but is winter strong. Olog and lavaglut will get blackspot in my garden toward the end of the season and I do spray, but not as regularily as some of the others. Remember to keep Tamora, olog and Lavaglut toward the front of the bed since all these roses have a tendency to be squatty. Tamora looks more like a miniature except for the leaf and bloom size. The plant is so extremely tiny. This is just my take. All roses act differently in different areas....See MoreRoses & Drought Tolerance
Comments (8)There are some wonderful resources available that might help us rose lovers. A book my husband and I love is Brad Lancaster's "Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands" (2 large paperbacks)and we also learned a lot when we took the permaculture design course in 2006. We're planting our roses in wells (as we do our fruit trees)surrounded by berms or on high-fronted terraces to capture as much water as possible during the rainy season (our permaculture teacher says that "the best place to store water is in the soil.") The wells make it easy to deep water once a week or so in the summer (young roses only). We're also trying to only plant really tough, water-thrifty roses (in our area that's teas, chinas, noisettes and foundies)and have stopped pruning in the winter as that's when our roses really shine (from October through June) so why cut them back as they're enjoying the rain and flowering? We don't try to force bloom during the summer and if we prune for height or space, that's when we do it. I think this regime just might be sustainable for us. And of course we also save kitchen and laundry water in wheeled buckets and garbage cans and take it out to our precious roses and fruit trees. We have no irrigation (black PVC "snakes") and are very happy we don't. I love hearing how others are dealing with the water crisis. We'll need to pool our creative ideas if we're going to be able to continue growing our beautiful roses......See MoreSucculents & drought/heat tolerant plants for pots
Comments (3)Hah, well, I don't know if I'd call myself a pro, but I AM addicted to pots and plants in them, LOL. Last time my mom visited she stopped counting potted plants on my little patio at 300 pots, lol. I guess I've gotten a bit out of control, but like you mentioned, when they're heat and desert adapted they're not much work to keep happy. I travel several times a year for 3-10 days at a time for work and pleasure so things need to be able to survive without me for that long or longer, even when I have a house sitter I don't ask them to water my plants. Fluffy stuff like geraniums and pansies are fine for that long in winter, and I reduce the number of fluffy flowery things in summer and usually plunge those into a deep plastic tub (thank you Ikea) with several inches of water. Anyway, most 90% of my pots are filled with cacti and succulents for easy maintenance. Here are some quick, sloppy recent pics of my patio, which faces due south with half covered and half uncovered: Off the top of my head, succulent plants for shade or partial shade here are some easy winners: Haworthias, Gasterias (especially!), crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii), Kalanchoe, Stapelia, and many types of aloes (good ol' Aloe vera is a great container plant). For more sun, some good succulent plants are lots of smaller growing cacti (Mammilaria elongata, Notocactus, Cleistocactus (tall growing), mini agaves, Stapelia, some aloes (although not full hot burning sun all day in summer), and the chubby/fat types of Euphorbia (E. anopla, E. cereiformis, E. horrida and friends). I also have fantastic luck with slipper plants (Pedilanthus) in containers in half a day's sun. For non succulent plants I do love amaryllis (Hippeastrum) and Asparagus ferns, and spider plants (Chlorophytum) are surprisingly drought tolerant. I'm sure other folks will chime in with lots of ideas. Let us know what you select and how it works out. Happy gardening! Grant...See MoreAny ideas for a shade and heat - drought tolerant climber?
Comments (11)My beloved MAC is for me an obvious one that fulfills your criteria, but it depends rather on what you mean by gigantic. I think it might be one of those 'how long is a piece of string' things; she'll probably go as high as there's something for her to climb (thinking of Jackie's towering specimen), but I'd generally describe her as large but manageable, rather than gigantic. She doesn't take up much ground/horizontal space at all, and didn't mind being left to her own devices once established in my hot dry climate. I used to give her a long slow soaking 2 or 3 times per summer, just so she would know I loved her - nothing else. There have been occasional reports of mildew in some locations, but she's usually a marvel of good health. I can't remember if you already have her, but if you don't, I can't think why not... :-)...See Morestrawchicago z5
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