I'll add that at the time of install, the fabricator got a little nervous about the length (10ft) of the long leg of my L with the sink in the middle of it and contemplated putting a seam and asked me about it. I said I was happy we didn't have one, but if being seamless would jeopardize this piece and we'd have to start over, I'd take a seam. Granted our piece had particular movement and I'd been to the yard and there was no more of it. In the end, they went for it and it worked out fine. But by that point I trusted him enough to say he needed to do what he thought best as the professional. (Granted that's burned me in other areas of my reno with other professionals>.)

IF your Fabricator is willing to guarantee that your seam wont separate from the heat cycles and vibration patterns that occur every time your dishwasher runs and heats up the glue in the seam - then hey - God Bless Him.... AND You !!! However........Since it IS an Engineered Stone product, AND IF he's using an epoxy - and NOT a polyester to glue the seam - he's got a better chance of it lasting longer. The "this is the way we've always done it" defense never hold up in court when the job fails - I know this as I am a Fabricator and I testify as an "industry expert witness" on lots of cases where seams fail all the time and I am brought in to show the mechanics of why some seams last and others don't........ In your case - the seam placed over a dishwasher will be subjected to daily - if not multiple times a day - heat cycles where live steam will be vented out of the dishwasher and make direct contact with the stone at the seam line. The assembly (the stone top with the seam in it) will also be subjected to vibration from the dishwasher unit dunning each time it cleans your dishes. Combine the vibration and the heat - multiple times a day, or even daily - over time - this can weaken a seam line, and the first thing to let go would be the glue. In your case - ES (engineered stone) is made up of epoxy glue and quartz particulate fashioned into a slab - (kind of like terrazzo). When the seams are glued - most ES manufacturers recommend that an epoxy glue be used in lieu of the more conventionally accepted polyester that most guys like me swear by when doing seams in Natural Stone. Epoxy is NOT Polyester. Polyester is NOT Epoxy - the two are vastly different glues and react differently. Epoxy and Polyester are many times - not compatible with one another and will not bond together at an optimal rate. IF your guy uses EPOXY in the seam directly over the DW - your installation will last longer than if he would have used polyester, but due to the placement of the seam (over the dishwasher) it'll be just a matter of time until you start to see degeneration if the seam - due to the daily exposure to the heat and vibration from the dishwahser. It's kind of like this analogy - if you have a seam that you hit one time with a hammer - you may chip the stone - you may not... but any damage will be limited to the one time you hit the stone with your hammer. But....... if you keep hitting the same spot in the stone over and over again with the same hammer, with the same force and the same velocity - eventually, you're going to break the stone and / or break the seam..... At the end of the day - why would you want to hit the stone with a hammer to begin with? I don't mean any disrespect to your Fabricator, but I'd suggest keeping the seam away from the dishwasher and going with two seams. IF he's good - and uses a Seam Phantom and Gorilla Grips to dress & set his seams - you will prolly not even see the seams - or at the very worst - you'll struggle to find them every time you go looking for them - remember that ES seams are harder to notice that Natural Stone ones - primarily due to the monolithic nature of the color distribution within the slab...... If on the other hand - he's never heard of the Seam Phantom OR Gorilla Grips or doesn't have either - well, your seams will be much more noticeable :-0 just my .02 cents worth = hth kevin

Not a bad seam, but they didn't use factory specified adhesive. Looks like they used clear which shows up as the medium gray pictured. No fixin' that without a major do-over. I'd try an off white Sharpie.

They matched the filler to the dark veining. You would still see a line if they matched it to the white veining. Not much can be done once the adhesive has set up. I would live with it.