consider partially blocking the view onto the fridge, by extending the pantry unit forward (tall cabinet next to the fridge), so that it sticks out and provides a visual break. What I see in your simulation drawings is a bit too much all-can-be-viewed-in-a-glance. When you pull the tall pantry unit forward, you can gain a broom closet space behind it. When you pull the tall pantry unit forward, you partially block the view onto the mud room. A good thing. if you swap the sink and the DW, you get the advantage of being closer to the dish storage, and you put a clean counter under the window. There will still be plenty of light in the sink, if the sink is near the left hand side. Worry not about symmetry with respect to the window trim, as nothing else in this house is based on pure symmetry. In fact, placing the sink in the middle of the counter there is a sign of ignorance, not symmetry. So, instead of having narrow banks of drawers on either side, do it this way, from left to right: big bank of drawers, sink, DW, corner. Hth. I would like to see frosted glass fronts in most of the upper cabinets. These cabinets are to show your nice things, not to hide them. When well lit inside, they make everything look good. The island can look good without the pillars. A wall of stone countertop can be used instead. See Dean_I 's kitchen island. It has so much more space than yours because it is made with 1" sides not pillars. These sides were cut beveled to make them look like furniture not butt-jointed slabs. Move the prep sink over 18" so as to free up some countertop space when you have to take things out of the fridge. The prep sink has to be undermounted to match the build quality of the space. There are thousands of other points that are Right about this space, but I will refrain from congratulating you or mentioning some of them. Although I would not have put the fridge where you put it, I am considering that this placement spot is non-negotiable at this point in time. The fridge and the aisle are right sized to let you pull the fridge out completely. Here is a link that might be useful: Dean_I island

I prefer simpler, cleaner lines, so mostly like the 2nd styles in each drawing. I especially like the area next to the pantry to have more counter and not have the long doors down to the counter. Also, in the first picture, that area next to the oven and pantry looks like it's trying to be a furniture piece, but everything on that wall looks like separate things all shoved together. I'm not sure how to explain that better, and less offensively! I just think there is a lot going on and, like I said, all lined up, shoulder-to-shoulder, doesn't work for me. How do you do soffits with the cabinets changing height at the top? Or would you do away with that? If you drop the ceiling in the butler's pantry, might you want to do cabinets to 9 ft and have the ceiling where the cabinets end? Or do you want to store serveware or have lighting above?

I have a very similar space and tried and tried as you are to locate the sink and stove on the same run and it just couldn't happen without cramping and majorly sacrificing function. We ended up with our main and only sink in the island. I was hesitant I really was but it really has allowed effecient use of space and keeps the auxiliary traffic out. We have 2 boys and use our island all the time for all sorts of things - snacks, wrapping presents, homework. Having the sink in there has not impeded any of those things. I know you said you really didn't want to do that but to sacrifice functionality to avoid it you might want to really think hard on it before you get too far. On the other hand if you can squeeze more length in maybe you can do it - but then I'd want a prep sink on the island, a water source there somewhere even if it's a smaller one. Our island is 9' long and has room for 4 stools on the long end and one on the short side. It houses the sink, dw, trash and a 4 drawer stack. We have a decent over hang, about 16" which makes seating comfortable. I like green designs - our MW is right by the fridge and that works well and usually those 2 appliances are used right in succession - no crossing zones to get to them. Good luck! It is so tough to get everything just so! If only I'd have analyzed the rest of the house as much as the kitchen! ;O

"... pots and pans in the very front, making it easier to lift them out, not straight up.." It's actually easier to lift something straight up than to pull it out and then lift it up. . Regarding DW and handedness...it's irrelevant if you're left or right handed. I can actually intellectually argue for either side for both left and right handed. In practice, it makes no difference. What makes a huge difference is where does it fit to make the kitchen function better. Keep the DW out of the Prep Zone. The DW should be next to where you store most of your dishes (plates, glasses, silverware). The Cleanup Zone, which includes the DW, should be separated from the Prep Zone, even if it's just separated by the sink - i.e., Cleanup Zone with DW & dish storage on one side of the sink and Prep Zone with trash pullout on the other side of the sink. Regarding the trash pullout - it should be in the Prep Zone, no matter where your Prep Zone is. If you cannot place it so it's in the Prep Zone but not far from the Cleanup Zone, then consider two pullouts. You generate far more trash and recyclables while prepping and cooking than yo do while cleaning up - and for a much longer period of time. (My biggest regret in my Kitchen is putting my trash pullout next to my cleanup sink and not in my Prep Zone on the other side of the aisle. I have a 6' wide aisle and I either have to pile it up for disposing of later or walk across the aisle with often dripping items to the pullout.) . Regarding corner susans...The 36" lazy susan (center pole) in my old kitchen held all the items now stored in my two 36" pot & pan drawers + the colanders & popcorn bowls in my 31" drawer under the MW + cake pans & pie tins stored in my 31.5" drawer under my ovens + pizza pans stored in my tray storage + some miscellaneous items scattered here & there in my new kitchen. So, when people say how much space is wasted w/corner super/lazy susans and how just ignoring the corner is better, this is one of the reasons I strongly disagree...IMHO, I think you lose more storage when you ignore/deaden a corner than putting in a susan. . . Drawers vs Roll Out Tray Shelves (ROTS) [Some people call ROTS pullouts, but pullouts usually refer to shelves attached to a cabinet door that pull out when you open the door - like a trash pullout or a pantry pullout.]. Pros & Cons of Drawers & ROTS Opening/Closing... Drawers require one movement to open/close Open: pull open Close: push closed. ROTS, on the other hand, require 2 or 3 motions plus waiting... Open: move out of the way of the doors, open 1 or 2 doors, pull out ROTS. If you want something in the front: move out of the way of the doors, open 1 or 2 doors, pull out ROTS slightly so you can lift the item over the edge. Close: push in ROTS, wait for it to close fully (so you don't ding the doors), close 1 or 2 doors. Storage/sides... Drawers ... Have sides the height of the drawer opening. This prevents things from falling off the sides, either onto the floor or into the interior of the cabinet (on the sides). This means you can stack things w/o worrying about things falling as the sides will catch them. It also keeps things from extending out past the walls of the drawer so they don't get caught on the cabinet frame when opening the drawer (Note: Getting caught on the frame is not an issue w/frameless cabinets, just framed...which includes overlay & inset.) ROTS... Have shallow sides, thus allowing things to fall off the sides and allowing things to hang over the sides of the shelf and get caught on the cabinet frame (which can result in nicks in your frame - experience speaking here!) Adjustability... ROTS... Have the advantage here in most cases. Most ROTS are adjustable...but not all are, so check w/your cabinetmaker. Drawers... Are not adjustable to different heights inside the cabinet. OK, this is the one place where ROTS have the advantage. However, with planning and/or organizers you can do almost anything with the drawers and store almost anything in them (dishes, glasses etc.. . Regardless of your decision on drawers vs ROTS, get full-extension...it's a must b/c it allows you full access to your drawers or ROTS! Soft-close is also nice, but it's a "nice to have" not a "must" (although, soft-close does come standard in some cabinet lines like Omega & Omega Dynasty/Embassy). Actually, I don't recommend soft-close for ROTS b/c the slight delay in closing (as the drawer/tray is gently closed) means having to wait to close the door(s) to avoid dinging the inside of your cabinet doors by hitting the ROTS b/f it's fully inside the cabinet. [Experience speaking here again!]